Towing a car behind your camper

There is lots of great information on towing on the Dinghy Towing forum. I considered moving this thread there, but there are some things unique to TCs, and the OP was referring to towing with a TC.

You might try the search feature on backing up a towed. I am sure it will explain it much better than my feeble attempt.

Wayne

hedge wrote:
sorry but complete flat-tow newb question. Why can't you back up? does it just become unruly or is there a mechanical reason? Is the steering on the tow vehicle locked or how does that work?

You cant lock the steering on a four down towed vehicle as it has to turn so it can go around corners.

when you back up the front wheels of the toad will turn all the way in one direction (you wont know which direction) and it will quickly jacknife.

If I could explain it, I would. It has to do with the steering geometry of the vehicle being towed. You might back up 2 or 3 feet, but even that is questionable. I have heard that some commercial truck drivers can back up 10 to 20 feet, but I have never seen it. You would think if you can push the car backward by hand, you could push it back with the tow bar, but it ain't gonna happen. The steering wheel will immediately go in one direction, which is not straight. You can break a wrist or fingers if you try to hold it with your hand.

Wayne

sorry but complete flat-tow newb question. Why can't you back up? does it just become unruly or is there a mechanical reason? Is the steering on the tow vehicle locked or how does that work?

I flat tow my Samurai most of the time. No where have I camped has it been an issue. I have had issues when I wanted to unload my TC at a campground. I also have found it much easier go sightseeing in my 12-foot long Samurai than my 22-foot truck (without TC). Definitely true when I go sightseeing in San Francisco. If I am going to a function that requires extra equipment, the Samurai serves as my trailer also. I typically lose 1 MPG of fuel when towing.

I have a 11.5 foot TC, and use a 48-inch extension (home fabricated) with the OEM truck receiver. I have used my setup since 2004. I do not have a tow brake setup. I tow back and fourth across the Sierras. I have considered a ReadyBrake™ Supplemental Brake Systems ($480), but have not yet ordered it. I would also add their Readystop Towed Vehicle Break Away Kit #RS-5000 ($110). My tow bar is a StowMaster, cost less than $50 at a swap meet. I towed without a rear camera for many miles. The camera was not really necessary, but a valuable asset, with or without the Samurai.

Entering and exiting the TC with the Samurai has never been an issue. Actually, I use the tow bar as a step. It is worth noting, you cannot back up while flat towing. It has never been a major issue, but I have had to disconnect 2 or 3 times over the years, just to back up.

I have had trailers over the years, and have access to a couple now if I need one. The fact is, it can be awkward to store in campgrounds. Usually, it cost far more to modify the hitch setup to support the tongue weight, than it cost to set-up for flat towing. There are advantages to both methods, but my preference is to flat tow.

Wayne

When I had a truck and camper, I took the camper out sightseeing. Even with the class C, it was small enough to take to sightseeing places.

When I got my 30' class A, it has the towing capacity to bring along a second vehicle, and I do. My F-350 with camper also could tow another 5,000+ pounds, but it was nearly as short and compact as a car, so I always just moved the truck. Never thought about a "Toad" but did take along a dune buggy that I had at the time.

Now I have a Manx dune buggy, and sometimes do take that behind the motorhome. It makes a great toad as well, and at only 1,500 pounds, you barely know it is back there.

Good luck,

Fred.

I have been looking at flat towing and most states require supplemental braking on towed vehicles over 3000lbs and as low as 1000lbs for a few. The published curb weight of an NA series Miata is a tad over 2000lbs however since the towed vehicle will likely act as a trailer for extra goodies as well, you might add another 500lbs. That can be quite a load chasing you down a hill when you already have 3000-4000lbs or more worth of TC on the truck. I've trailered my NA with the TC on board to Wisconsin and back from Alabama and no problems with stopping since the trailer has brakes on both axles but the added tongue weight I can do without. Even with the TC nearly dry I knew I was pushing what was reasonable. I can handle twice that curb weight as long as there is no tongue weight and the towed car has a brake system.

The nice part of flat towing is that everything but the baseplates and minor wiring mods can move from vehicle to vehicle so after the initial cost I can swap vehicles for under $400 in parts. Miata one weekend and CR-V the next.

Just remember you CAN'T back up.

So far I haven't had any real issue parking the truck with the camper on, but we have a smaller camper. I also don't really gravitate to places that are crowded.

bobndot wrote:

Buying all the needed gadgets to flat tow can be expensive ($3500)

It can be if you need all that shiny stuff, but it is simply not a true statement. A good solid tow bar and chains can be had for well under $200, and about $20 worth of 4 pin wiring harness and 2 light sockets to be added in to the toad taillights. This is assuming the toad is a Jeep with a flat steel front bumper.

We tow a Miata on a trailer. It will tow 4 down but requires modifying the grill for the tow bar. The trailer was @ half the price of all the flat tow requirements.So far, no probs. State parks have allowed a free trailer drop away from our site.

YMMV
Shiv