Towing

Mello Mike wrote:

Reddog1 wrote:
This is an old (2004) photo. The extension uses 2"x2" 3/16" wall tubing in instead of chains, for the side forces. Way overbuilt, and adds unnecessary weight to the truck. I have chains to replace the tubing, but keep using it for other projects. I have the tubing on the truck now, but again I will replace the tubing with chain.

Thanks, Wayne. I understand now what you're saying about the tubing for the side forces. Looks pretty sturdy. :)

Wayne, I've been hearing about your hitch for years now. This is the first time I have seen it. I like it. :)

kerry4951 wrote:

Mello Mike wrote:
I can see the need for stabilizing chains for long hitch extensions greater than 40" but why would you need them for something much shorter? My extension is 18" long and I've run into zero problems without them.

Mike
With your size extension I would not worry about using stabilizing chains. My guess would be to consider using chains on anything longer than 3 feet or thereabouts.

I agree with that.

WarrenS wrote:

kerry4951 wrote:
Why don't you look at the Reese 2 1/2" extensions. They offer one in 41"-48" length. I use one with stabilizing chains for my ATV trailer and it works great. I did remove my factory OEM hitch and replaced it with a Reese Titan hitch. There was a big difference in how much better the Reese was compared to the factory GM hitch.

I think I would attatch the chains to the safety chain loops near the end of the hitch rather than the loops.

The chains are actually most effective connected where they are in the pic, at an approximately 45 degree angle between the receiver hitch cross tube and the extension bar.

As the angle changes by moving the chains further out toward the aft end of the extension bar, they become less effective at limiting side to side movement of the extension bar in the receiver hitch. The angle of tension of the chains changes to more longitudinal and less lateral.

It is the lateral angle of pull that is needed to limit the lateral movement of the bar. The equilateral/equiangular triangle of forces, created by positioning the chains at 45 degree angles, is the most effective setup.

The turnbuckle and chains modification is simply to limit side to side movement of the extension bar in the receiver hitch, due to the normal clearance fit between the nesting tube sizes. All hitches have this normal amount of slop. On a standard length ball mount, the slop isn't much of an issue. When the ball mount is moved 3 or 4 feet out on an extension bar, the slop becomes much more noticeable.

There is nothing wrong, bad, or unsafe about doing the turnbuckle/chains mod to limit the side to side slop when using an extension bar.

Yes, the trailer's safety chains should be run from the trailer tongue, all the way to the truck's receiver hitch.

kerry4951 wrote:

WarrenS wrote:
I think I would attatch the chains to the safety chain loops near the end of the hitch rather than the loops.

kerry4951 wrote:
Why don't you look at the Reese 2 1/2" extensions. They offer one in 41"-48" length. I use one with stabilizing chains for my ATV trailer and it works great. I did remove my factory OEM hitch and replaced it with a Reese Titan hitch. There was a big difference in how much better the Reese was compared to the factory GM hitch.

Thats the purpose of the loops, to attach the safety chains. Keeping the chains back on the loops keeps them out of the way and still makes the whole rig rock solid. Maybe some do hook off their chains at the end of the extension, but I never saw a need to do it.

I have one of thoes Reese 48" extentions gathering dust in my garage, It was legal to tow my boat with but, I felt unsafe. You added chains to yours to help the sway left and right. That mod you made to yours might be ilegal and dangerous. That mod might release the original manufacturer of any liability. You had that mod engineered right? I hope so.
What I do know is that at best you need to run your safty chains from you boat or trailer to your trucks towing hitch, not the trucks towing receiver. Sorry about my views on this subject and how they might not aline with yours. I use a Super Hitch with a 48" Super Truss Receiver, and leave the modifications to the engineers.

vanderjw wrote:
I have a Superhitch and a short Torklift extension. I would recommend the Torklift parts if money is not a concern. The system works very well and I don't have to worry about the hitch failing and injuring someone. I tow about 7,000 lbs.

I also Have a SuperHitch/Truss running the 30" extension with chains. If you watch Craigslist and teh papers, and have patience, I was able to get both the hitch and extension for $300 and another $200 to ship it from Washington state to Kodiak, Alaska. A little wire-wheel action to clean them up and some fresh paint, and I was all set!!





Eventually I will "u-bolt" this rack on top of the hitch so that I can store gasoline and a generator down under the overhang...

I have a Superhitch and a short Torklift extension. I would recommend the Torklift parts if money is not a concern. The system works very well and I don't have to worry about the hitch failing and injuring someone. I tow about 7,000 lbs.

Reddog1 wrote:
This is an old (2004) photo. The extension uses 2"x2" 3/16" wall tubing in instead of chains, for the side forces. Way overbuilt, and adds unnecessary weight to the truck. I have chains to replace the tubing, but keep using it for other projects. I have the tubing on the truck now, but again I will replace the tubing with chain.

Thanks, Wayne. I understand now what you're saying about the tubing for the side forces. Looks pretty sturdy. :)

WarrenS wrote:
I think I would attatch the chains to the safety chain loops near the end of the hitch rather than the loops.

kerry4951 wrote:
Why don't you look at the Reese 2 1/2" extensions. They offer one in 41"-48" length. I use one with stabilizing chains for my ATV trailer and it works great. I did remove my factory OEM hitch and replaced it with a Reese Titan hitch. There was a big difference in how much better the Reese was compared to the factory GM hitch.

Thats the purpose of the loops, to attach the safety chains. Keeping the chains back on the loops keeps them out of the way and still makes the whole rig rock solid. Maybe some do hook off their chains at the end of the extension, but I never saw a need to do it.

This is an old (2004) photo. The extension uses 2"x2" 3/16" wall tubing in instead of chains, for the side forces. Way overbuilt, and adds unnecessary weight to the truck. I have chains to replace the tubing, but keep using it for other projects. I have the tubing on the truck now, but again I will replace the tubing with chain.