Trailer sway

If you are going with a camper with less than 700 - 800 pounds of tongue weight, look at the Andersen hitch. It is easy to install and set up. I have never had a moment of sway, even under emergency maneuvers.
Our tongue weight is a bit under 600 pounds and the truck has 1780 pounds of payload. We have absolutely no desire to go bigger.

Gjac wrote:

Vintage465 wrote:

Gjac wrote:

naturist wrote:
There are a lot of factors that influence sway, and there is a lot of information (and misinformation) available about it. Everything from weight of the trailer vs weight of the tow vehicle, to weight distribution between trailer tires and tongue weight, to tire pressures all around, to 5th wheel vs bumper pull, to length of trailer vs TV wheelbase, all affect sway or lack of sway.

You asked a very open-ended question, and you are going to get a LOT of responses. Some of them will even be right on, as far as they go. Good luck sorting through it all to the answers that make the most sense to you.

The "open ended question" helped me understand the issue. A more specific question would be what if the hitch weight is correct, tire pressure correct and I pull a 22 ft trailer with an F150 truck what would be required to eliminate trailer sway (if anything)? Are there some short trailers that are more prone to this problem be design?

Tires: E-Rated
Hitch: A solid W.D. Hitch, set up right(most aren't)
Suspension: depending on how your T.V. came from the factory, Possibly heavier springs or better shocks like Bilstein shocks.
Trailers Prone to sway: The placement of the axles in relationship to the tongue and the cargo distribution can have a lot to do with sway.
Bottom line: No "one thing" will stop sway other than not towing. There are many factors that really need to work together to make a great towing experience. And there is such thing as a great towing experience. There is not one thing about towing with my rig that makes me wish the trailer wasn't back there. It is literally just as easy to tow or go solo with my setup. As is the case with many of the other posters on this forum. It's a great place to be.

I noticed you have an ORV creek side FQ I was looking at the Creekside 18rbs mainly because of the slide and FW capacity 78 gals, I have not seen any other trailer that comes close to that capacity. Do you feel you needed a 2500 truck to tow the Creekside or did you what to have more truck in case you wanted to go bigger?

I've never had a pickup that wasn't a 3/4 ton. So when we bought Creek Side my bride said we weren't towing the new trailer with the old jolopy. So that meant a new truck and since I only do 3/4 tons...here we are. I pulled it from Los Angeles where we bought it to our house with our 1/2 ton Suburban and other than pushing a head wind all 5 hours of the drive, it handled it great. It was a well sorted out tow rig though. Pushing that head wind also tipped the scales toward the diesel.........and I love it. Effortless towing. My idea of a great time.

Gjac, I think if you are towing a 22' travel trailer with a newer half ton truck, and everything is set up properly, you may be able to go without any kind of anti-sway hitch. However, I think it's better safe than sorry and would have some kind of sway mitigation in place. Virtually any anti-sway hitch would be appropriate for your configuration. IMHO of course. I would probably opt for the easiest to use in your case. I'm guessing that's maybe the Blue Ox Sway Pro or Equal-I-zer. Once again, JMHO.

Vintage465 wrote:

Gjac wrote:

naturist wrote:
There are a lot of factors that influence sway, and there is a lot of information (and misinformation) available about it. Everything from weight of the trailer vs weight of the tow vehicle, to weight distribution between trailer tires and tongue weight, to tire pressures all around, to 5th wheel vs bumper pull, to length of trailer vs TV wheelbase, all affect sway or lack of sway.

You asked a very open-ended question, and you are going to get a LOT of responses. Some of them will even be right on, as far as they go. Good luck sorting through it all to the answers that make the most sense to you.

The "open ended question" helped me understand the issue. A more specific question would be what if the hitch weight is correct, tire pressure correct and I pull a 22 ft trailer with an F150 truck what would be required to eliminate trailer sway (if anything)? Are there some short trailers that are more prone to this problem be design?

Tires: E-Rated
Hitch: A solid W.D. Hitch, set up right(most aren't)
Suspension: depending on how your T.V. came from the factory, Possibly heavier springs or better shocks like Bilstein shocks.
Trailers Prone to sway: The placement of the axles in relationship to the tongue and the cargo distribution can have a lot to do with sway.
Bottom line: No "one thing" will stop sway other than not towing. There are many factors that really need to work together to make a great towing experience. And there is such thing as a great towing experience. There is not one thing about towing with my rig that makes me wish the trailer wasn't back there. It is literally just as easy to tow or go solo with my setup. As is the case with many of the other posters on this forum. It's a great place to be.

I noticed you have an ORV creek side FQ I was looking at the Creekside 18rbs mainly because of the slide and FW capacity 78 gals, I have not seen any other trailer that comes close to that capacity. Do you feel you needed a 2500 truck to tow the Creekside or did you what to have more truck in case you wanted to go bigger?

Gjac wrote:

naturist wrote:
There are a lot of factors that influence sway, and there is a lot of information (and misinformation) available about it. Everything from weight of the trailer vs weight of the tow vehicle, to weight distribution between trailer tires and tongue weight, to tire pressures all around, to 5th wheel vs bumper pull, to length of trailer vs TV wheelbase, all affect sway or lack of sway.

You asked a very open-ended question, and you are going to get a LOT of responses. Some of them will even be right on, as far as they go. Good luck sorting through it all to the answers that make the most sense to you.

The "open ended question" helped me understand the issue. A more specific question would be what if the hitch weight is correct, tire pressure correct and I pull a 22 ft trailer with an F150 truck what would be required to eliminate trailer sway (if anything)? Are there some short trailers that are more prone to this problem be design?

Tires: E-Rated
Hitch: A solid W.D. Hitch, set up right(most aren't)
Suspension: depending on how your T.V. came from the factory, Possibly heavier springs or better shocks like Bilstein shocks.
Trailers Prone to sway: The placement of the axles in relationship to the tongue and the cargo distribution can have a lot to do with sway.
Bottom line: No "one thing" will stop sway other than not towing. There are many factors that really need to work together to make a great towing experience. And there is such thing as a great towing experience. There is not one thing about towing with my rig that makes me wish the trailer wasn't back there. It is literally just as easy to tow or go solo with my setup. As is the case with many of the other posters on this forum. It's a great place to be.

naturist wrote:
There are a lot of factors that influence sway, and there is a lot of information (and misinformation) available about it. Everything from weight of the trailer vs weight of the tow vehicle, to weight distribution between trailer tires and tongue weight, to tire pressures all around, to 5th wheel vs bumper pull, to length of trailer vs TV wheelbase, all affect sway or lack of sway.

You asked a very open-ended question, and you are going to get a LOT of responses. Some of them will even be right on, as far as they go. Good luck sorting through it all to the answers that make the most sense to you.

The "open ended question" helped me understand the issue. A more specific question would be what if the hitch weight is correct, tire pressure correct and I pull a 22 ft trailer with an F150 truck what would be required to eliminate trailer sway (if anything)? Are there some short trailers that are more prone to this problem be design?

Yosemite Sam1 wrote:
Sway is not per se bad. It's a normal reaction when two heavy equipment is sitting on that single round ball and buffeted by wind or jet stream from semis or other heavy vehicles on the road.

What's bad is when sway is uncontrolled and whipping the tow vehicle or going out of its lane endangering vehicles on the other.


Weight distribution and sway bar normally prevent the more violent and dangerous ones.

Sway is not bad? First time I have heard that. Some weight distribution set-ups incorporate sway control, but just adding a sway control to a bad set-up is not the best idea...

There are a lot of factors that influence sway, and there is a lot of information (and misinformation) available about it. Everything from weight of the trailer vs weight of the tow vehicle, to weight distribution between trailer tires and tongue weight, to tire pressures all around, to 5th wheel vs bumper pull, to length of trailer vs TV wheelbase, all affect sway or lack of sway.

You asked a very open-ended question, and you are going to get a LOT of responses. Some of them will even be right on, as far as they go. Good luck sorting through it all to the answers that make the most sense to you.

This is a post that might wind up going on for pages and pages. But in short everything above looks like good info for the taking. 5-ers are a bit more of a slam dunk for no sway. Hensley is likely the very best unit on the market. There are many other W.D. type hitch set ups and they are not all created equal. Some W.D. hitches integrate the sway control into the spring bars. Some don't. The one I have doesn't and it has a friction sway control tagged on the side of the trailer's tongue to the hitch head. Most persons that have the sway integrated units, think mine is pretty low rent....works fine for me and I've never had sway issues at all. I recommend staying away from the Chinese Mfg'd units. Had one crack on me once and once is enough. With so many low cost units out there and they seem to have "American Names" on them, it's kinda hard to tell where stuff is made.

"Having followed a number of trailers I noticed a lot of swaying..."

I don't and regularly drive US395 south of Bishop. One out of a hundred? Most TTs are dailed in.