Truck Camper Guide

Led 67 wrote:

Butch50 wrote:

Bigfootchevy wrote:

4. Tire capacity (rating of your tire) - This is the tiny fine print on the sidewall of your tire, usually just behind the tire inflation number, this will usually be a direct correlation to the axle ratings and GVWR on new truck. This will always be your weak link in your weight carrying capacity and should always be checked before carrying any load, including a passenger car for that matter. SAFETY ALERT – Always make certain you choose tires with the proper load capacity to handle whatever load you are carrying with your vehicle!

I agree with you on a lot of your points except number 4. You also want your wheel to have enough capacity to support your load, Just because you add a bigger or more capacity tire on the stock wheel does not mean it is safe. The wheel might not be rated at the new rating on the tire.

On point 3 you state weigh each axle and this gives you your axle rating. Your GAWR is on the door pilar. When you weigh your truck and get the weight of each axle this is not a rating but an acutal weight. You want to compare the actual weight to the GAWR to make sure you are not exceeding the GAWR when everything is stock. Another thing is that both the front and the rear GAWR combined well normally exceed your GVWR.

X2 with #4 as I have seen some people that were scrappers think that they could load thier pickups to max only to start cracking if not outright breaking stock wheels and lug studs.

X3 with the following:

The rear axle on a RAM 3500 SRW (AAM 11.5) is rated for over 10,000 lbs. yet the stock truck comes with Load Range E tires rated at 3,415 lbs @ 80 PSI to 3,750 lbs. @ 80 PSI.

10,000+ lbs. - 6,830 or 7,500 lbs. = opportunity to purchase stronger wheels and tires (Ex. - 19.5" Rickson wheels and Load Range G or H tires).