On the subject of leveling I have Googled the subject and not found an answer. Here are a couple of useful pages I have read.http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/question-of-the-week/level-your-truck-camper/http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25883723/print/true.cfmBefore I ask my question I would like to post a hypothetical scenario to frame the question. So if you are an engineering type, please read both parts if you can help me.Hypothetical: - If I have the camper attached to the truck using Torklift basic springload turnbuckles and I use the jacks to lift all four corners, eventually I would expect to see the springs begin to show (visibly by extending slightly) the extra strain when the jacks start to lift the truck bed. (Not a good idea.)Question: - Would I be correct in assuming that if there is no visible movement of the spring, then there is no extra load on the spring (Hooke's law)? And, if so, is there no extra load on the jacks above the normal weight of the camper? ie - is the camper still be lifted by the truck suspension?With the hypothetical out of the way:-Real scenario (after considering the above): -If the camper is parked at a slight angle, and one uses the jacks to lift the camper (still attached to truck) to level the camper, and there is no visible extra strain on the turnbuckle springs, is there any extra load on the jacks beyond the weight of the camper?Supposition: - The way I see it, it is safe to assume that if there is no extra extension to the springs then there is no extra load on the jacks? Am I wrong, and if so, why?Clearly it would be better to use blocks to level the truck as much as possible but the question relates to the supposition above.Thoughts?Thanks,Moz

As you extend the jacks with the tiedowns still connected, at some point soon after the jacks touch the ground, you will lighten the load on the truck's springs. But as long as the camper still fully contacts the truck bed, there is no "extra load" on the jacks, as the truck still "pushes" from below. Of course, at some point you would start to have less load on the springs than it takes to carry the truck's weight alone. That is when you start lifting the truck with the jacks, and that is surely not a good idea.There is no problem in stabilizing the camper with the jacks down. But in my opinion the tiedowns should be disconnected, just in case a tire looses air - in which case you would otherwise hang the truck from the camper.ETA: of course, with the tiedowns still hooked up, you can not see the point at which the camper would start to lift off the bed. So, just don't, I guess.

there is say 200 lbs pressure caged in the Torklift basic spring load turnbuckles. this pressure is currently placed between the camper and truck attachment points.I expect as you lower the camper jacks, the truck both will show movement as the truck springs "unload" weight that is not applied to the camper jacks.I think you will need to lift MORE THAN 200 lbs weigh on EACH turnbuckle before you will see the turnbuckles springs start to deflect.so I am thinking you can lift 200lbs on each turnbuckle X 4 = 800 lbs before you start to extend turnbuckle spring

truck suspension unloading while extending jacks is ok to point where you start lifting truck, judging that distance subjective. I drop jacks without disconnecting to stabilize- weight is still on truck. Leveling is disconnecting tiedowns, always. Leveling camper within that small distance (truck suspension and tiny bit of additional load on of tiedowns) pretty short- invariably its that just that 'little bit more' trying to get level, not worth the 5 minuets to disconnect-doesn't necessarily mean all 4. Also, more than the extra load on jacks is the campers tiedowns points that is seeing the load (and trucks).

Think of it this way. If you leave the tie downs attached you are lifting the truck!Not visibly at first as the springs compress first.Not a good idea. the tie downs are not meant for high loads.

I use my airbags to level. Since adding new shocks, rims and tires, the truck is super stable.

Truck Camper leveling while attached to truck | Good Sam Community

brholt
Explorer II
May 24, 2017
We put down the jacks all the time to make the camper more stable and often to level a bit.

A little bit unlevel --> Jacks only with fast guns engaged.
Pretty unlevel -->. Bring out the blocks and finish with jacks, fast guns engaged.
Really unlevel. -->. Blocks followed by jacks with fast guns disengaged.

In the back it is easy to tell when we are just "unloading the springs" as we have stable loads and as long as the stable loads are engaging the overload spring the jacks are still not having to take the full load of the camper - the truck springs are helping a bit. I have done it I eniugh so that I have a pretty good feeling on how far I can go though if I am uncertain I will disengage the fast guns.

I haven't worrried about loosing a tire overnight as we are driving a dually and it is pretty unlikely we would loss both tires.
Buzzcut1
Nomad II
May 24, 2017
I have never used the jacks to level the camper in the 8 years that I have had it. Leveling blocks under the tires get me close enough. I am not a "it has to be perfectly level fanatic". The fridge has always worked and I have always slept well.

Your results may vary
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
May 24, 2017
Having spent a good part of my adult life driving over the road and sleeping in a truck sleeper I like my TC to be stable so I put my jacks down every time. Having said that, I don't 'lift' the truck, don't try to I just set them down to remove the 'rock' and get my fridge within 1/2 bubble.Not one time I can remember ever picking the camper up more than maybe a 1/2" and my truck suspension follows along.

Said before, your mileage may vary, my 'mileage' is just fine.
deltabravo
Nomad
May 24, 2017
cooldavidt wrote:
Think of it this way. If you leave the tie downs attached you are lifting the truck!

Not visibly at first as the springs compress first.

Not a good idea. the tie downs are not meant for high loads.

That sums up what I was going to say.

I don't use the jacks to level the camper. I use leveling block under the tires.
I don't use the jacks to "stabilize" the camper either.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
May 23, 2017
I always pay attention to everything. Inattentiveness causes issues. Not saying it's the correct way but it's MY way. In 25 years I've never had an issue.
Gin2olives
Explorer
May 23, 2017
I have successfully used this method to separate the passenger front eye bracket along with about a square foot of the bottom of a Caribou 11J (not paying enough attention)
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
May 23, 2017
Been reading along the who time... I don't use levelling blocks. Storage is already an issue, don't need more stuff riding along. I look it this way. the truck's suspension with the camper in the bed will squat about 2", there is a name for that, cannot think of it offhand but what I do is drop the rear (solid mount tiedowns and level the camper with the rear jacks, leaving the front spring loaded tiedowns attached. Never had an issue plus the camper is much more solid when inside. I realize that if the camper was lower in the front than the back it would not work. I just turn turn the truck to face the opposite way.

My suspension has always had enough 'sag' thats the word I was looking for, to level the unit with 1/2 bubble.

Always a screw or nail issue I agree but so far (knock on wood) I haven't had that issue arise.

Your mileage may vary but that's my regimen
kohldad
Explorer III
May 23, 2017
I guess that's possible, but if I didn't trust the tires enough toe hold up the camper from a little late night rock n roll I sure as he!! Wouldn't trust them going down the road.

It's the nail or screw you pick up while going down the road. I just picked one up on my last trip and the tire was down to 17psi in the morning. Probably only my 4th with the truck in 300k miles, but still a real possibility.
Grit_dog
Navigator
May 23, 2017
kohldad wrote:
Problem with not releasing the turnbuckles is if you have a flat tire during the night which will put more strain on the turnbuckles than you desire.

I prefer to just use blocks under the wheels. While not such a bid deal in a campground, if boondocking an you need to leave in a hurry, you just go and don't have to worry about raising the jacks.

To answer your question, when you pick the truck up higher than it is without the camper on, you are adding strain to the tie own points. This point is hard to determine and easy to pass due to possible uneven terrain.

I guess that's possible, but if I didn't trust the tires enough toe hold up the camper from a little late night rock n roll I sure as he!! Wouldn't trust them going down the road.

To the OP, yes in theory you're correct if the springs aren't stretching then you're only lifting camper. But it isn't that hard. You can tell when you're putting some extra weight on the jacks. I don't believe having to perfectly level the truck with blocks. Get it halfway close and fine tune it with the jacks. Sort of like the tire comment, if one can't see imagine how much lift/ pressure it takes to lift the camper off the truck after doing it a couple times then the ride may have too many moving parts for you!
Tamnative
Explorer
May 23, 2017
With the spring loaded type of hold down you have to take into consideration that 2 (in the rear) are not spring loaded. That said I use leveling blocks.