TV and Trailer Combo

I'm over by 200lbs. Woop D Doo. I have a 2500. The 3500 is identical in every way, sans rear springs. Add bags or Timbrens and there's absolutely no reason anything will wear out any faster by going 200-500lb over my GVW. Same running gear as the 3500 SRW and 3500 DRW.

No - within reason. All day, everyday, maybe. But a few days a year towing, it wouldn't worry me at all.

I had a 2002 Dodge 2500 Cummins. GVWR was 8800#, rear axle Gawr was 6084#, front Gawr 5200# (total 11284#). When ever I towed, I was at 9200# GVW. Over GVWR by ~400# but well below both axle ratings.

Never had a problem or mechanical issue.

2014screw wrote:

pappcam wrote:

2112 wrote:
You are close but doable.
Put a pair of Timbrems on the rear to help with squat and stability.
It's a short trailer so stability shouldn't be much of a concern.

Have your TT and TV tire pressure at maximum as stated on the tire sidewall.

Don't pack too much weight on the rear bunks, as tempting as that may be. That will cause instability as well.

No need for Timbrens. I have a similar TV and my TT is a little heavier and I'm fine and within all my weights. I have an XLT and the payload is 1450 or close to that and it works for us.

The OP will be fine as long as he doesn't throw a bunch of heavy stuff in the box of the truck.

Couple of bikes, spare 20lb propane bottle and a small tank of gas for the generator in the bed of the truck.

I figure my TW (554 Dry) would be roughly 700 lbs with full dual 30lb propane bottles and a 12V battery

But really, seriously, is going over your payload by a few hundred pounds a big deal with these new trucks??

pappcam wrote:

2112 wrote:
You are close but doable.
Put a pair of Timbrems on the rear to help with squat and stability.
It's a short trailer so stability shouldn't be much of a concern.

Have your TT and TV tire pressure at maximum as stated on the tire sidewall.

Don't pack too much weight on the rear bunks, as tempting as that may be. That will cause instability as well.

No need for Timbrens. I have a similar TV and my TT is a little heavier and I'm fine and within all my weights. I have an XLT and the payload is 1450 or close to that and it works for us.

The OP will be fine as long as he doesn't throw a bunch of heavy stuff in the box of the truck.

Couple of bikes, spare 20lb propane bottle and a small tank of gas for the generator in the bed of the truck.

I figure my TW (554 Dry) would be roughly 700 lbs with full dual 30lb propane bottles and a 12V battery

2112 wrote:
You are close but doable.
Put a pair of Timbrems on the rear to help with squat and stability.
It's a short trailer so stability shouldn't be much of a concern.

Have your TT and TV tire pressure at maximum as stated on the tire sidewall.

Don't pack too much weight on the rear bunks, as tempting as that may be. That will cause instability as well.

No need for Timbrens. I have a similar TV and my TT is a little heavier and I'm fine and within all my weights. I have an XLT and the payload is 1450 or close to that and it works for us.

The OP will be fine as long as he doesn't throw a bunch of heavy stuff in the box of the truck.

op wrote:
Sorry, are you being facetious or are you serious in saying that this, in your opinion, would be an ok set up provided i'm not over my RAWR

Serious. The trucks GVWR simply isn't used any where in the world of trucking to determine how much load a truck can carry period.
I was going to X2 on deshellys comment about GVWR but forgot to add it in my reply above.

Keep in mind the truck maker may choose any GVWR he wants up to and including the sum of the axle ratings.

The F150 comes in 17 different GVWR's from 6500 up to 8200 many with the same chassis.

Another GVWR joke if you will, is Ford gives us a F350 SRW 6.7 diesel 4x4 crew cab 172" wb with a 11200 GVWR or a 10000 GVWR. Both trucks are identical. One poor guy bought the 10000 GVWR version of this truck and asked how much can I tow on anther RV forum that was over moderated by weight police types. They convinced him to swap for the 11200 GVWR version with a big loss of cash out of his pocket.

Watch those RAWR numbers as that include tires/wheels/springs and more importantly brakes. I would also stay within Ford tow rating for your truck.

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Great choice and another safe combination. Your right about the payload being the weak link as its based on a GVWR number.

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Sorry, are you being facetious or are you serious in saying that this, in your opinion, would be an ok set up provided i'm not over my RAWR

Questions is this: Is this to much for the F150 to pull Safely? I think it is close but not sure how close

I think the payload is the weak link.

Family of 4 - total weight of family approximately 615 lbs

Comments/suggestions??

Great choice and another safe combination. Your right about the payload being the weak link as its based on a GVWR number.

Trucks don't carry weight determined by its GVWR or a GVW but carries weight buy the vehicles individual axle rating and in case of a truck pulling a trailer the RAWR as its carrying 99 percent of the weight.

I would drop by a set of scale and weigh your trucks axles weights separately. That way you know if your exceeding a axle/tire load limit.

Will not help with payload, but might help with handling, by making the sidewalls firmer.

2014screw wrote:
would buying LT tires help at all in getting a bit more payload?

Also, anyone know the approximate weight difference between a spray in bed liner versus a standard drop in liner?

2014screw wrote:
would buying LT tires help at all in getting a bit more payload?

They may help a Ford, but they sure didn't do much for my Silverado 1500 that came wih "P" tires. Timbrens helped a little. Careful driving helped a little. Trading for a 2500HD helped a lot. You have enough truck and enough knowledge to have a good towing experience. You do need to dismiss that 7,800 pound tow rating. It won't work with your pickup and loading.