underbelly is wet
I just got a 2000 forest rivers cherokee 37' travel trailer that I have some things I got fixed and working last night. I was aware when I bought it I had work to do but price was right. I noticed w...
Forum Discussion
One thing is for sure, water leaks are not your friend in RV's. I would try to isolate where the water is coming from. Which brings you to "chasing water leaks". Incoming or outgoing, hot or cold? Leak could be from any place that has water. From a drain to roof, You have to find out where the source of water leak is.
I would turn off all water faucets, water heaters etc.. and turn on your water pump until everything is full and water pump shuts off, then walk away for 5 or 10 min, then just sit near your water pump there real quite, see listen for your water pump to cycle every now and then. Just a little burp maybe every min or so. If it does, the pump is pumping water somewhere via your leak (or this leak)is from the incoming side and not discharge side. It is cycling too replace the water and pressure it has lost, due to a this leak somewhere. I finally found mine only after water damage was done. The incoming line to hot water heater was lose, just enough to let a drip every couple of min. Just a simple tightening of the connection could of solved all my problems, if I found it leak fast enough. Had to tear out insulation around water heater to find and replace some wood. If pump doesn't cycle, not the incoming water side has to be drain side. Could be nothing more than a leaky $10.00 valve. Some Rv's just getting access to inspect where leak is coming from is a hassle all within its self.
Some people have had good results with air pressure tests. Others get an air pressure test and fix where soapy bubbles have shown up and fixed that spot only to find out years later that they fixed one leak out of several.
Hope this helps. PM me you think I've missed anything.
I would turn off all water faucets, water heaters etc.. and turn on your water pump until everything is full and water pump shuts off, then walk away for 5 or 10 min, then just sit near your water pump there real quite, see listen for your water pump to cycle every now and then. Just a little burp maybe every min or so. If it does, the pump is pumping water somewhere via your leak (or this leak)is from the incoming side and not discharge side. It is cycling too replace the water and pressure it has lost, due to a this leak somewhere. I finally found mine only after water damage was done. The incoming line to hot water heater was lose, just enough to let a drip every couple of min. Just a simple tightening of the connection could of solved all my problems, if I found it leak fast enough. Had to tear out insulation around water heater to find and replace some wood. If pump doesn't cycle, not the incoming water side has to be drain side. Could be nothing more than a leaky $10.00 valve. Some Rv's just getting access to inspect where leak is coming from is a hassle all within its self.
Some people have had good results with air pressure tests. Others get an air pressure test and fix where soapy bubbles have shown up and fixed that spot only to find out years later that they fixed one leak out of several.
Hope this helps. PM me you think I've missed anything.
