Vinyl covering coming out of metal trim...

RickW... I like that idea^^^
I may do that but do it on the vertical part and lap and seal to flow moisture properly.

Thanks for the tip!

Mine also detached at the curve. I cut the strip at the horizontal overhang causing a 1/2 inch gap and inserted a separate 2 inch piece of vinyl covering under in front and over in back.



Now it can expand or contract in the track with temperature.

No issues so far. You won't see it unless you know where to look.

We had some of that stuff damaged, just cut back to where the good section starts and push a new piece in there, seal the two cuts with sealant of your choice. It only covers the screw heads in the metal piece.
Take about 5 minutes..

Our old Sunline TC didn't even have any of that trim. I liked it b/c I could keep and eye on the screws and watch for any signs of leaks.

I've been told that it is strictly cosmetic and gets water behind it anyway.

I am thinking of removing it from my new TC b/c I don't really mind seeing the exposed screws and I need to seal behind them all anyway.

My old Sun-Lite did the same. I waited for a warm day. Heated with a hairdryer. Stretched it back into place.

I like the cut back and reseal method suggested by a couple of member replies. I think I will do that.

billtex wrote:
Hi Frank;
another good eternabond application?!

Bill, I am not a fan of Eternabond. Everyone thinks it is the cat's meow, but I ran into a situation where it was the worst material.

I was sealing components on the EPDM roof. Around the plastic headroom bubble thingy over the shower is where I ran into problems. I thoroughly clean roof and bubble and when installing the E-bond at his location it "looked" like it made good contact seal, but E-bond does not adhere to this plastic bubble. I did not find out until months later.

I tried to take off the EB but got only half way around before I gave up and just removed it from the bubble of which it came off very easily. I will not use EB again and have returned to the tried and true Dicor on the roof. Unfortunately the roof now looks like arse.

Hi Frank;
another good eternabond application?!

Bill

Looks exactly like my Northstar did. In my case, I waited until a warm summer day when I could pull some slack into the trim and push it back into place. But before I pushed it back into the corner I removed one of the screws closest to the center of the arc, then ran the screw through the trim to hold it in place. I used a pinch of EternaBond over the screw hole under trim and another pinch over the screw head to prevent water intrusion.

I would (and did) cut at jacks, seal the top end of cut at jacks, leave upper side of cut open. I also used a paper hole punch and punched couple of holes bottom most side under the bed. Our trim inserts wrapped from the top of jack, up wall, under nose around the front and up to roof, both sides. They are not water proof. Best case, any water that gets behind and it does, sweats and rusts the screws, worst - water travels down and eventually reaches and seeps behind jacks. Or like our rear corners, literally fill with water, seeps in screw holes. I could pull the inserts loose at the back corners and water would run out.

Yours looks like it was stretched a bit when installed. Ours was pulling but not that bad. I doubt there is enough excess to relieve. Even if there was probably deformed from being squished under jack that unusable. After cutting I just worked insert up to fill corner, left about a 1" gap above jack. Could cut somewhere under the flat and at top of jack, replace that section if you didn't want to see gap. Seal top end but leave bottoms open.


Right side 1" gap. They were cut prior to adding swing out brackets at top of hinge barrle.

Almost see the left side, gap is 1/2".

So far so good on my Northstar. I did see that on a brand new Palimino in the dealer lot. It was detached in the same place. I replaced some on my old TT. It's easy.

Mike