Wagner rotors and severe duty pads?
Just got my truck inspected. The front brakes are nearly shot. The rear pads have over 50% of their life left. I had already planned to put new pads at least on the truck before heading out to th...
Forum Discussion
Agree with babock and add since the tire analogy seems to work for some...
It depends....
If one of my V rated passenger tires gets a nail on the RMA "repairable area", I'll either toss it or sell it with telling the buyer of why
It is no longer speed rated at V, but many, too many, will either not understand that or just say it is okay...
My life is worth more than any high speed rated tire...heck even H rated will have me noodle long and hard about patching from the inside (plug from inside and inside patch over that). As any H rated tire on any of my vehicles won't really be driven at that kind of speed...but a V or Z rated tired vehicle will be at those speeds...
In the old days...rotors did have enough mass to turn a 'bit' off and still have enough thermal mass to do the job 'well enough'...but today's rotors are designed so close that I'll not turn them on my performance vehicles (2 seater or the TV). My mini van, sure thing...it my trusted ASE Master mechanic says he will...otherwise not an expensive, to me, thing to get NAPA's best
Thermal mass both in absorbing heat and rejecting heat. Part of that mass structure is pathways to reject. Anyone hear of a brake disc 'heat dam' ? That is part of the thermal dynamics design of 'that' rotor
Know tend to get highly technical, but this/these threads are based on technology & science with healthy doses of out in the weeds stuff...
Anyone know the why of drilled and slotted rotors? Pure track stuff of just a few decades ago...where racers would toss and replace with new rotors every race.
I used to cut a gas slot on my pads both track time and street. The holes and slots are to allow the friction material that gets to hot it out-gasses.
That out-gas has high enough PSI to float the pads off the cast iron
That is the why of rotor holes, rotor slots and now mud hen and up pads come with a gas slot molded/cut into it right out of the box....to make rotor holes/slots redundant
Bit on cryo/slotted rotors ($1K each) back in the 90's for my Sub. Understand the science behind it...listened to one of my physicists...
They too heat checked badly after just a few thousand miles. Shoulda known better and that guy and I have talked about this. Missing was the very high temps reached, rate of change and back down over many, many, many cycles...cryo is NOT a good process for that...nor is it good for gun barrels, which has similar heat cycling
Again...it depends...and on my 'have to have list' is performance. Looks, ride quality, etc are on my 'nice to have list'. Braking is higher on the 'have to have list' than go...
QUALITY brake parts are repetitively cheap these days and most times the labor will cost more.
Going to be 70 next year and hoping to still do my own work...albeit less of the heavy stuff. Brakes...yup...gotta to that just to know I can and feel comfortable about the workmanship...
It depends....
If one of my V rated passenger tires gets a nail on the RMA "repairable area", I'll either toss it or sell it with telling the buyer of why
It is no longer speed rated at V, but many, too many, will either not understand that or just say it is okay...
My life is worth more than any high speed rated tire...heck even H rated will have me noodle long and hard about patching from the inside (plug from inside and inside patch over that). As any H rated tire on any of my vehicles won't really be driven at that kind of speed...but a V or Z rated tired vehicle will be at those speeds...
In the old days...rotors did have enough mass to turn a 'bit' off and still have enough thermal mass to do the job 'well enough'...but today's rotors are designed so close that I'll not turn them on my performance vehicles (2 seater or the TV). My mini van, sure thing...it my trusted ASE Master mechanic says he will...otherwise not an expensive, to me, thing to get NAPA's best
Thermal mass both in absorbing heat and rejecting heat. Part of that mass structure is pathways to reject. Anyone hear of a brake disc 'heat dam' ? That is part of the thermal dynamics design of 'that' rotor
Know tend to get highly technical, but this/these threads are based on technology & science with healthy doses of out in the weeds stuff...
Anyone know the why of drilled and slotted rotors? Pure track stuff of just a few decades ago...where racers would toss and replace with new rotors every race.
I used to cut a gas slot on my pads both track time and street. The holes and slots are to allow the friction material that gets to hot it out-gasses.
That out-gas has high enough PSI to float the pads off the cast iron
That is the why of rotor holes, rotor slots and now mud hen and up pads come with a gas slot molded/cut into it right out of the box....to make rotor holes/slots redundant
Bit on cryo/slotted rotors ($1K each) back in the 90's for my Sub. Understand the science behind it...listened to one of my physicists...
They too heat checked badly after just a few thousand miles. Shoulda known better and that guy and I have talked about this. Missing was the very high temps reached, rate of change and back down over many, many, many cycles...cryo is NOT a good process for that...nor is it good for gun barrels, which has similar heat cycling
Again...it depends...and on my 'have to have list' is performance. Looks, ride quality, etc are on my 'nice to have list'. Braking is higher on the 'have to have list' than go...
QUALITY brake parts are repetitively cheap these days and most times the labor will cost more.
Going to be 70 next year and hoping to still do my own work...albeit less of the heavy stuff. Brakes...yup...gotta to that just to know I can and feel comfortable about the workmanship...
babock wrote:fj12ryder wrote:Ok..good analogy... I would compare getting a flat and having someone plug it from the outside vs taking the tire off and put the proper patch on the inside of the tire vs turning a rotor on a brake job and just scuffing it.
High quality doesn't have to mean "All New Parts". That's faulty reasoning. When you get a flat tie, just a simple small nail in the tread, do you throw the tire away and buy a new one since it is now damaged, or get it patched?
I guess I don't get it...are people really that lazy that they don't want to pull the caliper and then the rotor? It takes all of a couple minutes. I drop off the rotor at a place that is close by and it's $10/rotor! Or is it a cost thing that you don't want to spend the $20? Has to be just laziness because the cost is minimal.
It's what any shop would do...it's what any dealer would do if you brought your vehicle in for a brake job. Why cut the corner when it's so simple and cheap?
