I have a 1995 Georgie Boy Pursuit, 27', 454 TBI with front disc and rear drum brakes. Purchased the rig about 1 year ago and did a complete front end brake job: turned rotors, new ceramic pads, repack bearings, new rubber brake lines, new master cylinder, fluid flush, etc. I also meticulously cleaned all of the moving caliper parts with wire brush (using drill attachment) and applied grease (although I should have purchased extra as they don't give you much with the new pads). Since that time I have taken it out on several short trips and one longer trip (~500 miles round trip), but for the past 4-5 months it has been sitting in the driveaway. I try to drive it to work every 4-6 weeks when not using it. Last week I drove it to work and noticed a burning smell, which turned out to be the brakes. I measured the rotor temps at ~440 deg F -both sides; happend in the morning drive to work and the evening drive home. I drove it again to/from work about 3 days later and it was fine; rotor temps were ~ 240 degrees - both sides.I have studied forums and two main causes appear to be bad rubber brake lines (swelling/pinched) or sticking calipers, but I supposedly took care of that with new hoses and brake job. The problem is evidently intermittent and the one time it did happen, both sides exhibited the same problem. Is it common for both sides to stick like that and/or could that help with diagnosing the problem?Thanks for any/all suggestions.

Sounds like the pins are not releasing the rotors when you let off the brakes - as you guessed.I had a similar problem with my 3500 GMC motorhome. Front brakes dragging when the pins fail to let it slide back and forth to release both sides of the rotor. The piston is on one side, and that side releases, but the whole caliper slides over to grab the opposing side when the brakes are applied. If it does not slide back, then the outside brake pad will stay engaged, and overheat! Looks like you will need to lube the sliders some more. Check your local NAPA auto parts store, they probably have the right stuff, or perhaps some 'high temp disk brake lube' (for bearings) will offer enough heat rating?Good thing that you caught this problem on a short drive to work, not in the middle of a 250 mile drive. Fred.

Calipers not retracting on slides. My rig does not have pins, but grooves where the calipers slide. These grooves must be very clear of any rust and old lubricant before installing with new high temperature brake lube. The standard lube used by many auto repair shops will harden after being exposed to high heat.The calipers slide on these pieces on the lower end and the caliper mount on the top. This the style on my rig.Hardware

Thanks guys, I do have the "grooves" like Bud mentioned and I thoroughly cleaned all moving pieces on the caliper with wire wheel brush using a drill. I used high temp grease that came with new pads, but there was not a lot of grease. Should have used high temp wheel bearing grease since I have plenty of that. Regardless, does it not seem odd that both sides would have the problem? Could that point to some other problem? This was my first ever brake job with this type of caliper, so maybe I made a bonehead mistake on both sides; but its not exactly high tech to understand.

No, do not use wheel bearing grease. It should be brake caliper grease. Little packette is not nearly enough. Lubricant needs to go on both end of the caliper.This is what I used.Lubricant

It sounds to me like some kind of a fluid problem either the fluid is not returning to the master cylinder or the piston on the caliper is too tight. Sounds like you cleaned the caliper slide well, your lines are all brand-new, is the master cylinder a new one or rebuilt one? I have had a similar problem with a rebuilt master cylinder.

1995 P32 Rotors Overheating | Good Sam Community

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Sounds like the pins are not releasing the rotors when you let off the brakes - as you guessed.

I had a similar problem with my 3500 GMC motorhome. Front brakes dragging when the pins fail to let it slide back and forth to release both sides of the rotor. The piston is on one side, and that side releases, but the whole caliper slides over to grab the opposing side when the brakes are applied. If it does not slide back, then the outside brake pad will stay engaged, and overheat!

Looks like you will need to lube the sliders some more. Check your local NAPA auto parts store, they probably have the right stuff, or perhaps some 'high temp disk brake lube' (for bearings) will offer enough heat rating?

Good thing that you caught this problem on a short drive to work, not in the middle of a 250 mile drive.

Fred.
enblethen
Nomad
Feb 07, 2015
Calipers not retracting on slides.
My rig does not have pins, but grooves where the calipers slide. These grooves must be very clear of any rust and old lubricant before installing with new high temperature brake lube. The standard lube used by many auto repair shops will harden after being exposed to high heat.
The calipers slide on these pieces on the lower end and the caliper mount on the top. This the style on my rig.
Hardware
1969SSCamaro
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Thanks guys, I do have the "grooves" like Bud mentioned and I thoroughly cleaned all moving pieces on the caliper with wire wheel brush using a drill. I used high temp grease that came with new pads, but there was not a lot of grease. Should have used high temp wheel bearing grease since I have plenty of that. Regardless, does it not seem odd that both sides would have the problem? Could that point to some other problem? This was my first ever brake job with this type of caliper, so maybe I made a bonehead mistake on both sides; but its not exactly high tech to understand.
enblethen
Nomad
Feb 07, 2015
No, do not use wheel bearing grease. It should be brake caliper grease. Little packette is not nearly enough. Lubricant needs to go on both end of the caliper.
This is what I used.
Lubricant
Gjac
Explorer III
Feb 07, 2015
It sounds to me like some kind of a fluid problem either the fluid is not returning to the master cylinder or the piston on the caliper is too tight. Sounds like you cleaned the caliper slide well, your lines are all brand-new, is the master cylinder a new one or rebuilt one? I have had a similar problem with a rebuilt master cylinder.
rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Feb 07, 2015
Jack the front end up and spin the wheels by hand. There should be very little if any drag from the pads hitting the rotors. If there is a large drag, then your caliper is not releasing completely.
Oldme
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Calipers not retracting. It could be rust or
the pistons are not fully retracting or thicker than
original pads.
There should be very little drag.

I have seen some that did not move back as far as they
were originally because the pads were thicker.
After 40 or so miles they wore in the needed clearance.
The danger is warping the rotors if they stay hot for too long.
turbojimmy
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
Make sure you have rear brakes. I had a similar issue on one of my limos. I replaced EVERYTHING up front. Coming down a hill one day I almost plowed into traffic stopped at a light. When I finally got it stopped there was smoke POURING out of both front wheels. That's when it dawned on me that I must have no rear braking action. Sure enough, someone had replaced a wheel cylinder without bleeding the brakes. There was so much air that there was no braking action in the back at all. I bled the rear brakes and all was well again.
1969SSCamaro
Explorer
Feb 07, 2015
GJac,
The master cylinder was brand new. Probably put 600-700 miles since I completed all the work and this is first time this has happened.

rgatijnet1,
I was planning to remove the calipers to check everything out, but like your idea of checking caliper drag before disassembly, cleaning, greasing and reassembley.

I still don't understand the intermittent nature of the problem and why both sides exhibited the same problem at the same time. And then 2 days later it worked fine?
randallb
Explorer
Feb 11, 2015
Either the booster is bad, the M/C you installed has a slightly longer ram or the brake pedal linkage is hanging up slightly. If the issue did not exist prior to your brake work then I would pull the M/C, place a slight amount of light putty/playdough on the booster pin and see what happens when you tighten up the M/C. Your primary check should be that the M/C settles on to the booster face with absolutely no resistance. Any resistance guarantees the M/C ram is long or the booster is hanging up. Judging by the age I would probably just replace the booster but first have someone pull the brake pedal up if the M/C does not hit the booster with no resistance.
Randy