Want info on this Kodiak with a Lance 1181

BTG,

No modifications at all… I just removed the bezel because I did not know what was in tailed. Straight forward installation. I did install one side upside down on accident. Light markings need to be on top. Still waiting to use them at night. I'll post results

The lights look good, did you have to any modifying or were they plug and play? Since you had the surrounds off I'm figuring a bit of work to make them fit but they sure look OEM size. But all I really care about, is how well they light things up on low and high beams!

f4mdtwr wrote:
BTG,

I hope the 821 doesn't lower it too much, we'll see (i'll post as soon as I get it on the truck, might be this weekend).



BKA,

Not really liking the bed lift idea. Good idea, but not in my plans. Thanks for the idea though.Noted on the pinion angles but 2-3 shouldnt change that much (I hope).

Not sure how your flatbed is constructed but on my aluminum bed the cross beams are headed off in the wheel location so the tires can go all the way up to the bottom side of the top plating . The axle bumpers would stop it before the tires hit . Perhaps yours could be modified if it isn't already like that .

Small update…

Put the new LED headlights on today… They look awesome, check out some pictures of the lights on the truck…

First the useless stock lights.


Now the LED headlight W/O the trim bezel


LED with the trim bezel


What do you think? I haven't tried driving with the LED's at night but I have to believe they will be 10 times better.

Got the transfer flow tank today so I'll try and get that on tomorrow. pictures to follow.

BTG,

I hope the 821 doesn't lower it too much, we'll see (i'll post as soon as I get it on the truck, might be this weekend).

On the tires, i got got all new tires all the way around. 2 New steers and 4 new drive (traction) tires. All Toyo's M143 (steer) and M608Z (Drive or traction).

Im on diesel place all the time…

BKA,

Not really liking the bed lift idea. Good idea, but not in my plans. Thanks for the idea though.Noted on the pinion angles but 2-3 shouldnt change that much (I hope).

Bedlam,

Not sure how the fronts would act with the suspension fully compressed. Looks like there is plenty of room. Getting longer bumpstops is not a bad idea. I still think new springs are in the plans. Looks like the truck carried a lot of weight in its previous like. Taller tires were necessary in my opinion.

Love this forum… Keep it your comment coming.

Check this out… Snow in southern california, not in the mountains. This is near Temecula, in the City of Wildomar. Note the Kodiak full of snow. Love it, picture looks photoshopped.

Tire to deck height was important when I was upfitting mine. I had to make sure I kept a minimum of 8" clearance. I agree that cutting the deck and adding wheel wells would be a simpler way to fit the rear, but how does it do up front with the wheels cut hard and the suspension compressed? Could you replace the the current stops with softer and taller ones so that they would engage sooner and limit upward travel more?

f4mdtwr wrote:
BTG,

Deavers are good... Got a line in with Atlas springs though, might trade a set of wheels for front and rear custom springs. Both Deaver and Atlas springs are good companies with good customer service.

On the lights... I'll report back. Read some really good things about them (made in the USA) too. I hope the are a drop in replacement with little to no fab work needed.

On the clearance between the bumpstop and load spring... Not sure but it can't be more than 2-3 inches. I'm pretty sure that the tires with hit the flat bed one the bumpstop hit the load spring. This is why I think I need to lift it at least 2 inches if not more. I'm hoping no more than 3 inches otherwise the front steering components will have to be adjusted and I do not want to get into that at all.

Back when I was working the land (farming/ranching) as a kid, on the F600 & F800 Grain Trucks we just lifted the bed, with blocks. Some just provided a Wheel Well opening and subsequent fabricated box for the opening. Not sure if this would be within your design parameters for your Camper addition to your flatbed. But it might be easier than all the springs, pinion angle changes and more relation to $$$. Just a suggestion.

b

My Ram 5500 4wd came with steer tread up front and drive tread in the rear. It was an option to get drive tread on all six positions, but I opted for the quieter ride up front. We'll see if my traction suffers to the point I regret this configuration.

Even after 25K miles, my open shoulder DynaTrac's made noise up front on my previous truck.

Honestly I can't remember how much clearance I had between jounce bumper and the spring in the rear before I put on the Kelderman. I will say that with the 4500 stock springs they compress a LOT when the 1191 is dropped on. Enough to be down to be just a few inches of space when loaded. That seemed way too little but you also have to keep in kind that it actually is NOT a true bump stop....it is a Jounce Bumper (i think that is the right term) that is meant to contact the spring but then still can compress a significant amount before it acts solid. Note it has two sections one that compresses and one that is more solid. Now that I have the Kelderman air I can adjust the air to keep the space between the springs and the jounce bumper constant whether the camper is on or not which I like. Over time I believe my springs have gotten flatter and flatter (both front and rear) due to the weight exceeding what the 4500 was meant to carry. 5500 springs would have been the right match. Hence the desire to replace mine someday not only with a set made for 5500 loads, hit also to provide a little more arch (on the front at least but probably on both ends). Your smaller camper shouldn't compress your springs as much as mine did, but if you only have 2-3" now you are right you might be in contact with the spring. I'll be curious to hear once you get that baby loaded up.

The front spring on mine, believe it or not is just about in contact with the jounce bumper. Fairly common on Kodiaks (again especially 4500's) that have much if anythin loaded on the front. Mine has the heavy winch and winch bumper and what little clearance I had when we first bought it is really down to near contact before even hitting any bumps! When I win lotto I'd buy those Deavers and put on some high end shocks like King. You have 2WD so mine may not be so applicable to yours.

I think you are doing the right thing in getting some custom springs especially if you can trade for them. Did you get steer tires for the front or 4 all the same? With a 2WD I'd have seriously considered steer tires + traction tires but not sure if is have done it.

Lastly, if you haven't found the medium duty forum on thedieselplace.com you should look for it. There are some folks there that know Kodiak/Topkixks inside and out and is a great resource. There is even a dude that drag races his built Kodiak as well as some show trucks etc. When I am looking for Kodiak specific stuff that's where unusually go.

Nice rig, keep up the updates.....enquiring minds want to know :)

BTG,

Deavers are good... Got a line in with Atlas springs though, might trade a set of wheels for front and rear custom springs. Both Deaver and Atlas springs are good companies with good customer service.

On the lights... I'll report back. Read some really good things about them (made in the USA) too. I hope the are a drop in replacement with little to no fab work needed.

On the clearance between the bumpstop and load spring... Not sure but it can't be more than 2-3 inches. I'm pretty sure that the tires with hit the flat bed one the bumpstop hit the load spring. This is why I think I need to lift it at least 2 inches if not more. I'm hoping no more than 3 inches otherwise the front steering components will have to be adjusted and I do not want to get into that at all.