ScottG wrote:
Huntingdog, I'm sorry but you're wrong on both counts.
Yes, it pushes the trailer back in line but there's nothing dangerous about it. I've even had it in the snow. Is the force "significant"? It is enough to do the job, nothing more. It is easily overcome when turning by the weights involved.
No, it does not use friction for control. It doesn't use brake material anywhere like other systems do. It uses pure spring pressure via the spring bars pocket climbing up off the cam. You could submerge the entire thing in oil and it would still work the same.
Best of luck to you.
Scott
ScottG wrote:If it really worked like that with any signifignant force, it would be dangerous in slippery conditions when turning in a curve.
The beauty of the dual cam is it actually pushes the trailer back in line with the tow vehicle.
X2. The Dual Cam is superior to the 4 point system. The 4 point doesn't try and stop sway it just slows it, and then slows it from returning. The DC will resist sway and if it does move will be forced back to center.
ScottG wrote:
The beauty of the dual cam is it actually pushes the trailer back in line with the tow vehicle.
That being said, there are lots of different technologies that strive to achieve the same thing. Some use other methods to help force vehicle and trialer in-line. I haven't tried them all but I far prefer the perfromance of the DC over the Equalizer I had.
kellem wrote:rexlion wrote:
I've had the Equal-i-zer and it worked well. It was easy for me to install without drilling anything. I've read that the Reese is harder to set up correctly (and RV dealers don't always get it set right, either).
The 2-point provides some anti-sway friction, but the 4-point will do more.
I liked the Andersen better than the Equal-i-zer mainly because it was easier to deal with chains than heavy, long bars when disconnecting and reconnecting. It worked just as well, too. Only, the Andersen is best for trailers under about 7K lbs as it cannot level the rig properly when there's a lot of tongue weight.
True regarding the Reese as it requires additional tweaking once trailer is loaded but a competant dealer should thoroughly explain the function of any WDH to buyer.
rexlion wrote:
I've had the Equal-i-zer and it worked well. It was easy for me to install without drilling anything. I've read that the Reese is harder to set up correctly (and RV dealers don't always get it set right, either).
The 2-point provides some anti-sway friction, but the 4-point will do more.
I liked the Andersen better than the Equal-i-zer mainly because it was easier to deal with chains than heavy, long bars when disconnecting and reconnecting. It worked just as well, too. Only, the Andersen is best for trailers under about 7K lbs as it cannot level the rig properly when there's a lot of tongue weight.
