jrichard wrote:
A couple of things: First, keep in mind that a weight distributing hitch typically transfers +/-20% of the tongue weight back to the trailer axles...so you probably have a little more room than you think.
Second, IMHO, looking at GVWR might be the worst way to judge your loaded weight. GVWR is unloaded weight plus cargo carrying capacity. Most here will agree the greater your CCC the better because it represents stronger frame, brakes, suspension and wheel/tire components. Most will also agree GVWR has little to do with your towed weight.
Take two trailers that weigh unloaded 4000lbs each, one with a CCC of 1000lbs and one with a CCC of 3000lbs....so GVWR of 5000lbs and 7000lbs respectively. Using GVWR in your situation, you would choose the "lighter" trailer and end up buying a likely inferior product for no logical reason.
Outside of weighing the unit, the yellow sticker is your best guide. It shows the factory weight typically including factory installed options. Add to that the weight of a battery and propane. If you're ordering your unit, you can get the sticker weight from other units in stock that are similarly equipped.
For your towed weight, and your gear and decide if you want to include water/waste tanks. This is obviously a guess and depends on you. For short trips, I figure my number is 1000 lbs. For longer trips or ones where I carry water, I figure 1500lbs and I think those estimates are very conservative.
FWIW, my personal experience is going from an "ultra light" with a CCC of 1005 lbs to a trailer with a CCC of 3000lbs. On the first trailer, loaded with 1000 lbs, I was on the edge on my tire capacity. My current trailer has tire capacity to spare. Same with the axle ratings. And since the axles are bigger, my brakes are larger and, even with the additional unloaded weight of the new trailer, they are noticeably stronger. Another benefit I did not anticipate: since the new trailer has a bigger frame (8" v 6") there is less flex which equals less bouncing/movement when camping.
The only downside: the unloaded weight is greater on the new trailer. And that's the point...the unloaded weight (plus what you add) is the important part. If I looked only at GVWR, I wouldn't have bought the new trailer even though it is within my towing limits when loaded how I use it.
If you want to simplify your search, take published UVW and add 1500lbs. You'll likely never carry 1500lbs and that gives room for options, battery, and propane.
Agreed. GVWR is your friend. The larger the number the better. GVWR has nothing to do with the the weight of the trailer. It is a rating not a weight. Look for trailers with high ratings, not low ratings. If you want to know what the trailer weighs loot at the UVW ON THE TRAILER, not on the brochure. After that use realistic numbers for cargo and come up with a reasonably close loaded weight (otherwise known as GVW...NOT GVWR) If you have doubts on the UVW number listed then have the dealer drive it over the scales and weigh the tongue. Simple procedure.
Good luck in your search. Happy trails.
