What's with the ridgey exterior walls on the Jayco TTs?

gmw photos wrote:
Woodglue,

Can you tell me how much clamping pressure is applied when utilizing a vacuum bonding procedure ?

Also, can you tell me what the correct clamping pressure and time is for the adhesive that might be in use for these different constructions ?

thanks.

Hi there,

I have those numbers somewhere around here. If I don't post them today, please remind me! I do know that it's oftentimes measured in percentages (%) It also has to do with the type of adhesive being utilized. For instance, Lamilux has their own set numbers.

120 - 130 pounds per square inch is one number I just found. And that's vacuum pressure, not clamping.

WoodGlue

TxTiger wrote:

Proteus wrote:
I won't even consider a "stick and tin" trailer for the following reasons.
1) it's cheap crap, pushed because it uses residential construction techniques and requires minimal worker training, and no special factory machinery. 1950s era tech.,,
2) wood gets wet, and rots. Insulation "batts" retain water, and shift.
3) it creates trailers that are far heavier than they need to be, and require large trucks to pull. A truck is a horrible daily driver. They handle like crap, with lousy gas mileage. Why buy one just to pull a trailer? Why not buy a trailer at can be pulled with a normal vehicle?

1) Residential construction methods are proven and go back much further than the 1950's. I've not seen any laminated/bonded luan/Azdel constructed single/multi-family residenses in my area.

2) Wood does rot if it stays wet. Catch the leak in time and you're ok. Even minor leaks in fiberglass sided trailers can turn them into a money pit to repair if they delam.

3) I own several trucks. Some like my half ton Silverado is a great daily driver and very comfy on trips. It gets over 20 mpg on the road. Not sure what a "normal" vehicle is. A Ford Focus?

I'd rather drive a truck too. And in truth. No one is going to tow ant TT of any size with a "normal" vehicle. Unless like me. You think a truck IS a normal vehicle. There are only 2 kinds of home owners. Those who have a truck, and those who need a truck. Trucks are needed for WAAAAY more than just towing a RV.

WoodGlue wrote:
Vacuum bonding the wrong way is an EPIC FAIL on the part of most, if not all RV mfgs. This sets the stage for almost certain delamination issues!

WoodGlue

Woodglue,

Can you tell me how much clamping pressure is applied when utilizing a vacuum bonding procedure ?

Also, can you tell me what the correct clamping pressure and time is for the adhesive that might be in use for these different constructions ?

thanks.

Proteus wrote:
I won't even consider a "stick and tin" trailer for the following reasons.
1) it's cheap crap, pushed because it uses residential construction techniques and requires minimal worker training, and no special factory machinery. 1950s era tech.,,
2) wood gets wet, and rots. Insulation "batts" retain water, and shift.
3) it creates trailers that are far heavier than they need to be, and require large trucks to pull. A truck is a horrible daily driver. They handle like crap, with lousy gas mileage. Why buy one just to pull a trailer? Why not buy a trailer at can be pulled with a normal vehicle?

1) Residential construction methods are proven and go back much further than the 1950's. I've not seen any laminated/bonded luan/Azdel constructed single/multi-family residenses in my area.

2) Wood does rot if it stays wet. Catch the leak in time and you're ok. Even minor leaks in fiberglass sided trailers can turn them into a money pit to repair if they delam.

3) I own several trucks. Some like my half ton Silverado is a great daily driver and very comfy on trips. It gets over 20 mpg on the road. Not sure what a "normal" vehicle is. A Ford Focus?

The stick and tin trailers are heavier across the board. Someone mentioned "only #700lbs" lighter? That is a big difference, unless you're towing with a large truck! And why would I want to do that? My unibody SUV gets better mileage towing a 6000lb trailer, than my neighbors truck based Expedition does empty!

TxTiger wrote:
Check out some of the KZ TT's. Many stick and tin, lightweight yet quality construction. My toy hauler has marine grade plywood flooring, (not OSB), walk on plywood roof decking, well equipped but nothing fancy, more than adequate axles, tires and wheels as opposed to marginal. 2 year warranty and great customer service.

My previous TT was a KZ "stick and tin" and held up fine for 8 years before I traded it in. Once I brushed up against a big pine tree backing into the side of my house (said tree has been since cut down). It partially dented the top piece of aluminum siding along the side near the front. I wonder what would have happened with my new Keystone fiberglass TT?

beemerphile1 wrote:
Call me crazy but it has always been my understanding that stick and tin is lighter than the fiberglass sided trailers.

Luan Laminated fiberglass maybe. But not AZDEL. My previous Aluminium sided TT was 27' bumper to ball, had no slide, and only one permanent bed.

The new TT, made with AZDEL. Is 31', has a 15' slide. 1 Queen bed, and 2 full bunks. And is 169 lbs lighter.

(Woops double post)

beemerphile1 wrote:
Call me crazy but it has always been my understanding that stick and tin is lighter than the fiberglass sided trailers.

If you start looking at the weights of many trailers regardless of how they are built they are pretty darn close to the same. My 28BHS is maybe 700# lighter than the Jayco Ultralight of the same length.

westend wrote:
This is what happens, folks, after the unwary inhabit an Adzel composite built RV.

*goes back to the Kumbaya of tin-wood-huggers*

Oh lordy! :B