Which Electric Camper Jacks

No doubt. I've even seen poorly prepped surface shed powder coat from way to new. And I'm a metal novice!

I think it has more to do with making things faster, cheaper, more able to crash and burn whilst trying to jump over a sky-scraper in a single bound, than on company capabilities. Willingness of purchaser for less quality and demand for lower pricing fuels company acceptance of disposable, cheaper materials and practices. Most of the stuff I work to restore is older.

I wonder? I have a four jacks set of Reico-Titan hydraulics (worn our linkages, obvious need for at least a clean out and refill of the fluid, but the pump mechanism linkages are shot). Maybe my dollars are better used on rebuild parts and service for these jacks? Maybe not quick jacking, but acceptable?

Lil' Queeny ended up being a bit too heavy for the side portables I had started rebuilding. Now I'm thinking of looking further into her (donor camper) originals. Four corners (mount into pipes under the wing) and use cables.

See my conundrum? :)

Anyway. Yesteryear vs newly available. Many considerations, and she doesn't come off the truck often. But occasionally.

hj "knows" nothing about" nor "do they care anything about correct surface preparation , of their product they use the cheapest coating methods with no consideration of product longevity the consumer is stuck with
load bearing surfaces are all minimal at best

I was the general foreman in a metal products factory in a med se curity prison for 6 years where we used chroming,powder coating, and spray painting I firmlt believe we ( staff & inmate workers) paid more attention to the quality of our products that hj has ever done on any of theirs

joerg68 wrote:
the link in the post right above yours doesn't really boost my confidence there.

That one looks pretty good compared with the painted ones on my '98 BF. Hot dip galvanization of both tubes would be best.

I'm hoping the new zinc coated units stored indoors in the off season will last longer.

the link in the post right above yours doesn't really boost my confidence there.

deltabravo wrote:

Bigfoot appears to be using Rieco Titan

Both my old and new BFs came with HJ.

I'm hoping the new zinc coated units stored indoors in the off season will last longer. I consider their ball screw style to be unsafe, since they have single roll pin subject to breaking that risks dropping the jack at the wrong time. Stick with the acme screw, and keep the motors dry.

Glacier D wrote:
http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y418/skiierdave/IMG_8777_zpszmppjyqs.jpg

clicky

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y418/skiierdave/IMG_8777_zpszmppjyqs.jpg

Thanks all for great info.

Thanks Joerg, very helpful details!

Re. the drill: I bought a Makita, but plenty others will do.

Get a professional grade one. I had an inexpensive consumer grade one first which did not produce enough torque. Pick one at the upper end of the available torque and you can't go wrong. Adapters to fit into the crank handle receptacle in the jack can be found on ebay.

The torque numbers are given for two scenarios ( in german they are called "hard" and "soft"). Soft is the lower number, but it is used when yoy need to apply the torque for a longer time, like putting a screw into wood. That is more like the camper jack scenario.

The other scenario aims for very high torque at the end, with moderate or light power up to there, like tightening a bolt.

It works well for us - we load or unload once or twice a year.

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y418/skiierdave/IMG_8777_zpszmppjyqs.jpg

Well, that didn't work