Winterizing help

Thank you!anyone know where I can get a 2-3ft piece of rubber hose thats like the flexible almost clear hose that goes from fresh tank to the water pump...m mine looks old and I want to replace it but make it a little longer so o can just take off the hose clamp and use that for winterizing by sticking the one end into the antifreeze jug...

Appears to be in bypass in the photo. The white fitting in the upper right is a check valve. It will keep water from entering the water heater in that direction and only allows water to flow outward. Assuming the check valve is in good working order. Typically, the handle perpendicular to the pipe indicates closed and the handle parallel to the pipe indicate open. If your valve are like that then the WH is in bypass. Left valve should be open, bottom valve should be closed.

You don't need any modifications to your plumbing system. Some do not have the check valve and have another manually operated valve in its place. Remember folks, not all systems are alike from one brand to another.

Also, I see nothing wrong with the wiring. It appears to be Romex coming into an approved Romex clamp going into the box. The corrugated tubing is simply for chaff protection. It's not any kind of conduit system. At least from looking at the picture.

Ditto on that wiring...!!

The valve on the right, bottom---turn clockwise to "off" position.
The valve upper, left---turn counterclockwise to the "on" position.

I'd also suggest to have anyone except Bozo the clown/electrician fix that inlet wiring to the water heater's junction box.

Yes I believe their is a check valve because I unscrewed the Hot line and put my mouth on the fitting i could suck air out but could not blow in....

Your photo looks like it's in by-pass mode right now. The bottom valve is turned off (perpendicular to the pipe) - cold "in". The one on the side is parallel to the pipe (open). So the cold water can no longer go into the bottom of the tank, and has to go up (past) the water heater.

The problem I see with this configuration though? There needs to be a cut-off from the hot-out (top pipe). If there is a check-valve in the line (top out - hot pipe), then you are all set. If there is none, the "pink stuff" will back feed into the water heater through the top.

Before pumping the pink, and before doing any plumbing, make sure the water heater is drained completely and leave the plug out. Then, with the valves in this configuration, turn the water pump on. If water begins to pour out the water heater drain plug hole, you know there is no in-line check valve on the hot-out pipe. You'll need to add a valve so the water will not back-feed into the tank.

Try with water first, then if nothing comes out of the water heater drain hole, you know your good. Put the drain plug (anode rode??) back in for the winter and you're good to go.

It looks like you need another valve in the horizontal line at the top like the valve in the line at the bottom. If you put this in then valve it like the one on the bottom and that will have your heater isolated and bypassed so that you can winterize the hot water line. A good hardware store will have the tubing that you are looking for.