Wolf Creek Furnace Issues

Heres a couple pics

anutami wrote:
Everything seems to be working okay since I re-directed the vents. We will see how night 2 goes. Last nights low was 8 degrees ??

I've always had one directed down and one up, next year I'm going to try both vents directed down and see if mine does the same as yours did.

Everything seems to be working okay since I re-directed the vents. We will see how night 2 goes. Last nights low was 8 degrees ??

^If I remember correctly, This is what the manual says. It also says to pull the fuse to reset the board commands. This has happened to me several times and every time, pulling the fuse has fixed it. In fact, the furnace needs to be reset as I type this. The camper isn't being used and I'm lazy.:)

First look at the control board there is probably a red led that flashes a code , there should be a legend for the code posted nearby
Could be many things , limit switch , sail switch , bad board , dirty or bad igniter , bad or clogged gas valve
The air that the heater uses to burn is drawn from outside next to the exhaust , not from inside
When the heater shuts down, the fans , one for the combustion chamber an one for outside the chamber that blows the heat inside the camper both continue to run since they are on the same shaft on the motor , it does this as a fail safe incase there is gas still in the combustion chamber, so you get cold air at the registers inside and at the exhaust outside
Most heaters try to light three times and if no heat is sensed by the limit switch the board shuts the gas valve off
If the sail switch is stuck , it tells the board that there is air movement in the chamber , the board also tells the valve to shut
If the gas valve I clogged , malfunctioning or not getting the right amount of gas it can cause this
If the board is faulty it can cause this also
Good luck , try to stay warm

Lets try to find what its not. Try to eliminate the obvious.

Maybe something is sticking. If its a switch or valve (smart valve maybe ) that is sticking, try tapping everything you can to possibly get it unstuck. Things like this happen when furnaces sit for periods of time unused.

To be sure the regulator is putting out enough pressure. ( a quick n easy field test)
1. Let the water heater cool down .
2. Turn on the stove burner then turn the water heater on while you are watching the stoves blue flame .
the flame on the stove should remain the same when the water heater fires up, no fluctuation.
sometimes, the regulator diaphragm can stick or even crack in very cold temps .
I wrap my regulator in a little insulation.

anutami wrote:
The issue appears to be the 2 ducts that blow hot air and the air intake vent are right next to each other. So my hot air is essentially getting sucked back in the intake and overheating the limit switch causing it to shut down. I had both ducts pointed down drying off wet snow gloves and jackets. I am pointing both ducts upward and will see how that works.

Maybe the limit switch itself is faulty (too sensitive). All AF TCs, and maybe Wolf Creek too, have their furnaces and ducts under one dinette area, with the intake close to the supply ducts. If that was the case there would be many other owners with this same problem.

On my AF, the furnace intake is outboard under the table in the dinette and two output ducts are on the outside of the booth dinette facing the center aisle.

Bedlam wrote:
Restriction in your regulator? Try your stove top and see if you can get full flame.

Yup full flame

The issue appears to be the 2 ducts that blow hot air and the air intake vent are right next to each other. So my hot air is essentially getting sucked back in the intake and overheating the limit switch causing it to shut down. I had both ducts pointed down drying off wet snow gloves and jackets. I am pointing both ducts upward and will see how that works.