sleepy wrote:
bb_94401, that is an ambitious project and nicely done.... having to raise your truck camper almost 4" to get it over the truck bed sidewalls sure caused you a lot of work... and added a considerable amount of weight. Can you remove it easily when you want to use the truck for something else?
Sleepy
It breaks down to single pieces and is easy to remove. It is all just lap joints and when fit together can not move in the bed in any direction. During the winter the openings are filled with 3.5" of extruded foam insulation. There is a layer of fiberglass on the top and anti-skid sand on the epoxy for the boards that contact the bottom of the TC to minimize movement to the rear on steep, rutted or washboard roads. The longitudinal boards extend past the end of the truck bed to help support the TC and minimize the sag that happens there in my TC.
Skipro3
To load my camper on the 4x4 and clear the frame in the bed (needed for roof clearance), I'm almost to the orange warning band on the jacks. At this point the combination of the slop in the swing out bracket for the dually and tolerance of the jacks, the TC easily moves by itself more than the offset of the ramp on my guides (jack attachment, corner structure and anchors are in good shape and show no movement).
The frame and the guides also make for lots of reference points when loading, so at most I end up being centered or just use ~1/4" of one of the ramps to align it.
Lifting one jack at a time is only a method for relieving stress on a jack, no matter how it occurred, or if it is binding. It is only for a short time and only needs to be lifted enough to unweighted it and relieve the stress. I'm not advocating that anyone sky one jack to do this, nor suggesting only using three jacks vs. four when storing the TC or routinely raising / lowering the TC.
As Sleepy pointed out this was for preventing the TC from shifting during use. Despite having all four fastguns at approximately the same tension, my TC would move to the right and pivot around the wheel well. A potentially shifting load is not something I want when dealing with a side hill or off camber rough forest service road, nor for emergency handling of the rig. Many solutions exist and it just depends on your criteria.
I made my guide setup after using foam blocks ahead and behind the wheel well at points where there was framing across the TC or equivalent to a bulkhead. It was difficult to place the blocks with the limited rail clearance I had and it wasn't as tight as the 3/8" tolerance I have now.