So what did you do to your Truck Camper today?
I saw these threads in some of the other Open Roads RV Forums, but didn't see one for TCs. I'll start... I installed Interior LED puck lights and a 12v power outlet.
Forum Discussion
Here's what I've done until now: (all at once)
* installing 3 transformers, because we have 230V and the original camper stuff works on 120V. It works great and can use everything (sockets and appliances) at any time - on ac and on generator and I even have the choise of using 120V or 230V as shore voltage - only problem is that the microwave generates less heat on 50Hz than 60, but might be fixed - would have to contact manufacturer for that)
* placing adapters onto the original LP ACME connector, so LP bottles with DIN connector can be used.
* placing 2 28 liter European LP bottles that can be filled at the pump. (automatically stops filling @ 80% = 22 liter = 5.8 gallon) Most European bottles are trade-in bottles and different by country and is not very handy for an RV, if you ask me. European refillable bottles can be filled like US horizontal tanks, so don't have to be removed. (so paid per liter/gal, not per gram/ounce)
* 22 inch LED-TV
* Voltage stabilizer for TV (perfect 12V output with a variable input from 5 to 20 volts or so)
* cable gutter from left to right against the roof at the foot side of the bed to accommodate the cables for TV (12V - coax - av-cable)
* cheap rear view camera - needs to be replaced, because of bad result (what have I saved now...)
* digital thermometer/atomic clock inside + outside sensor + basement sensor
* 2000W pure sine-wave inverter
* 2nd battery
* Surepower battery isolator (camper shop apparently didn't install that)
* Replacing the 120V heating element in the fridge (connected it to 230V by mistake - wanted to go too fast when installing transformers)
* re-installing the 3-way winterizing valve that was connected the wrong way by the manufacturer
* fixed bad electrical connection at right rear running light
* re-caulked the shower wall - had a 1/8 inch gap
* installing a foolproof 120V connection for the engine block heater, placed behind the appliance access door - foolproof because we get 230V inside
* fixing a whole list of things for the truck (by dealer, not by me)
* husky liners in the truck (front, center hump and back)
* navigon carkit for iPhone (called Mio carkit in Europe) - together with a 3.5mm jack to cassette adaptor
* laminated weight and dimensions reminder chart in meters and feet / kilograms and pounds (for bridges and tunnels) and on the back side: translations for potable water and diesel in many languages (who knows where we're going to end)
No sockets were replaced (but do provide 230V now - only sockets under dinette are still 120V), because I wanted to keep the camper as original as possible. We use adapters instead.
* installing 3 transformers, because we have 230V and the original camper stuff works on 120V. It works great and can use everything (sockets and appliances) at any time - on ac and on generator and I even have the choise of using 120V or 230V as shore voltage - only problem is that the microwave generates less heat on 50Hz than 60, but might be fixed - would have to contact manufacturer for that)
* placing adapters onto the original LP ACME connector, so LP bottles with DIN connector can be used.
* placing 2 28 liter European LP bottles that can be filled at the pump. (automatically stops filling @ 80% = 22 liter = 5.8 gallon) Most European bottles are trade-in bottles and different by country and is not very handy for an RV, if you ask me. European refillable bottles can be filled like US horizontal tanks, so don't have to be removed. (so paid per liter/gal, not per gram/ounce)
* 22 inch LED-TV
* Voltage stabilizer for TV (perfect 12V output with a variable input from 5 to 20 volts or so)
* cable gutter from left to right against the roof at the foot side of the bed to accommodate the cables for TV (12V - coax - av-cable)
* cheap rear view camera - needs to be replaced, because of bad result (what have I saved now...)
* digital thermometer/atomic clock inside + outside sensor + basement sensor
* 2000W pure sine-wave inverter
* 2nd battery
* Surepower battery isolator (camper shop apparently didn't install that)
* Replacing the 120V heating element in the fridge (connected it to 230V by mistake - wanted to go too fast when installing transformers)
* re-installing the 3-way winterizing valve that was connected the wrong way by the manufacturer
* fixed bad electrical connection at right rear running light
* re-caulked the shower wall - had a 1/8 inch gap
* installing a foolproof 120V connection for the engine block heater, placed behind the appliance access door - foolproof because we get 230V inside
* fixing a whole list of things for the truck (by dealer, not by me)
* husky liners in the truck (front, center hump and back)
* navigon carkit for iPhone (called Mio carkit in Europe) - together with a 3.5mm jack to cassette adaptor
* laminated weight and dimensions reminder chart in meters and feet / kilograms and pounds (for bridges and tunnels) and on the back side: translations for potable water and diesel in many languages (who knows where we're going to end)
No sockets were replaced (but do provide 230V now - only sockets under dinette are still 120V), because I wanted to keep the camper as original as possible. We use adapters instead.
