So what did you do to your Truck Camper today?

Just finished changing all my Marker lights that were getting brittle and the silicone caulking was a mess. I found some nice LED marker lights at the Pilot Truck Stop and I got the Bargman run/stop LED rear lights. 7 red marker lights, 2 amber marker lights and the 2 tail light and the cost was $163 and change to really brighten up the whole rig.

Original lighting:


Remove old marker light and clean up the surface:




Soldered and heat shrink all connections due to limited space behind lights. Mounted all marker lights on putty tape:


Finished one of nine marker lights:


At night from the rear corner:


At night from the front corner:

skipro3 wrote:
Do you have a link to where you bought the LED's or just a web site that shows what lights you purchased?

bought these weather proof units here....

http://panther-rvproducts.com/Marker-Lights_c214.htm

my OEM units had the mounting screws going thru the lenses, which are getting hard to find. These are sealed, I caulked the back side prior to mounting, and screwing. The lense then pops on covering the assembly.

This will be my next upgrade/purchase....

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Bargman/47-84-005.html

skipro3 wrote:
Well, I still don't get it. The lights still need to be mounted. With screws that pierce the shell of the camper. The lights I see anyways. So how exactly are the LED lights not leaking then? Sure, there's no lens filling with water, but then it would only fill to the screw mount anyways, so that type WON'T leak until there's some water to fill and reach that point. Even then only MORE water will cause water to leak if it's not sealed.

Think of it this way skipro...The LED unit is a sealed unit unless you puchase the base only, Which you can then swap out the LED units but I have seen those leak on semi trailers, the single unit piece with pigtais is completely sealed so the only potential for leak is around the base so be sure that you use a quality sealant around the base and a small dab around the screw head and Do Not overtighten

James' wrote:
Added a couple of medal cubicles to the closet for better handling of clothes. Quick, cheap and easy to do. Best of all... lite.

I LIKE!!! :)

I sealed mine with pro flex. in the holes and around the edges. Just like the regular units are sealed but there is no base or lens to fail and no hot bulb to burn out. your choice if you think alls ok with what you have go with it.

Well, I still don't get it. The lights still need to be mounted. With screws that pierce the shell of the camper. The lights I see anyways. So how exactly are the LED lights not leaking then? Sure, there's no lens filling with water, but then it would only fill to the screw mount anyways, so that type WON'T leak until there's some water to fill and reach that point. Even then only MORE water will cause water to leak if it's not sealed.

ledtrailerlights.com is where I got mine. there many many sight to look for lights. just do a search for led clearance lights.

Do you have a link to where you bought the LED's or just a web site that shows what lights you purchased?

skipro3 wrote:

sleekcrafter wrote:
installed new LED clearance lighting. I'm strongly considering replacing the turn, tail, and back-up to LED now.

I've always wondered what is gained by swapping out the running lights on a camper. After all, they are only on when the truck is running so they don't drain the battery. I realize bulbs burn out, and that might be a good time to replace them; as they fail, but to just wholesale swap out the lights?

I put all new oem style last year, besides cracking and leaking, and bulb failures, I bought all new sealed LED housings, and caulked them in. I noticed cracking of lenses after 100 plus degree days encountering heavy rain with the lights on.

To quote myself: :)

mark_be wrote:
Removed my blue sky 2512ix controller, which I'll have to send back. It overcharges the batteries - got 15.2V in boost mode while it was set up for 14.5V maximum voltage.

Contacted blue sky by phone today and they told me that my 2512ix has faulty software. They'll send me a new software chip, which should solve the problem. This means that I don't have to send it back anyway. :)

FYI: the bad software is V3.20, which is printed on a sticker on the chip.