We've enjoyed our route 14 drive south along the lake and route 17 is one of my favorite drives...especially in fall with the leaves. 17 is a bit up and down but a pleasant drive (much more than the toll road)...dramatically less cars (like wow less). The rest areas are sparse (no big deal) as are the places to grab a bite but you can find places easily enough...just not flooded with those kind of services.
Might I suggest Watkins Glen State Park? Great park but not all sites have electric so get on the electric loop. Great hiking in the Glen if you are so inclined (not be missed)...not sure what time of year you are going.
Wineries to be found also.
Enjoy!
Donna