Rocky Mountain Nat Park

[evanrem]

Going to Colorado for two weeks this summer and wondering if we should hit Rocky Mountain Nat park or just stay in the national forest around Vail and explore that area. We will be continuing on to Arches NP. Is the Scenery and things to explore much different? Last year we went to Yellowstone and I had it with the crowds by the 4th day and I hear RMNP is pretty busy also. Any input would be appreciated and maybe some ideas on other things to see. We will be traveling with a 34ft TT.
Thanks

[Horsedoc]

Just a suggestion, but drive up the dirt road - Old Fall River Road - to the summit. It is one way so you don't have to worry about on-coming traffic. Slow and easy. It is a great way to see the mountain close up. You can head back down to Estes Park on the highway.

[Thom02099]

RMNP offers a LOT of things to do for folks who want to get off the beaten path, and want to do more than about 90% of the folks going there do

What I'm referring to here is that, the majority of tourists stay on Trail Ridge Road, Fall River Road, or Bear Lake Road and don't stray more than the length of a football field from these roads. This is especially true if there's wildlife to be viewed from the roadway...the elk and deer, the bighorn sheep, the occasional moose, and the vast array of marmots, squirrels, birds, etc. This is one of the biggest reasons for traffic jams on the roads, folks just stopping in the travel lane to get a picture, instead of looking for a place to pull off safely and actually walk back for that photo op.
This is a reality of a visit to RMNP.

Yes, there are a goodly number of hikers in the park, especially the various trails off Bear Lake Road, but unfortunately I've seen a lot of "hikers" who will walk the 1/4 mile from the parking lot to Bear Lake, perhaps take the stroll around the lake, get some photo ops and then leave.

If one takes the time to hike some of the trails off the Bear Lake Road and really get back into the wilderness area, the pressures on the park are less obvious and the beauty comes out. Some hikes are easy, some are moderate, and some will challenge you, and some of the trails are a combo of all of this.

And this holds true for other areas of the park. The west side has been mentioned, and it has a very different look than the Estes side. Yes, the sad reality of the beetle kill is very evident, but there are still wonderful views, and great hikes. Don't forget, there's the headwaters of the Colorado River there, and one can hike along the river, either up- or down-stream, and get a completely different perspective of the river. There are fewer and longer hikes on the west side, but they are just as rewarding. In Grand Lake itself, on the east end of town, there's access to some hiking trails to get you in to that part of Rocky. And all around Grand Lake, Lake Granby and Shadow Mountain Lake, there are additional hiking trails and views of the park.

And as I mentioned previously, there's the Wild Basin entrance to the park and the hikes that are available from this area. This will get you in to some of the more pristine areas of the park, as well as a different perspective of Longs Peak, if one is up to the challenge. One doesn't have to actually climb Longs Peak to appreciate the beauty and majesty of the mountain from closer up.

All this to say...if one looks, there is more beauty to Rocky than just the vistas from Trail Ridge. One has to get out of the car/truck/RV and actually explore...on foot! This is my goal this year, after 35+ years of going up to Rocky. See more from different perspectives. Yes, I've hiked a goodly amount. There's still a LOT more to see, sometimes by doing it over again.

[bakerkids]

I'm glad I didn't miss this
Just a short way from the road...

[Lauren]

bakerkids makes an excellent point You will find my wife's and my one word answer to anything in full force - PEOPLE. The real key is get u0 and out to do things in the Park early. Estes itself is a zoo tourist town.

[bakerkids]

Oh, I wouldn't miss a visit to RMNP! We usually go around July 4, and really haven't been that bothered by the crowds. It depends on what time of day you visit, too. We also stay away from the Estes Park area, as we hang near Grand Lake. I certainly wouldn't be in the area and not visit.

[Searching_Ut]

2gypsies wrote:
There's a reason the national parks are so crowded - especially in the summer. They are unique and one-of-a-kind.

I agree, our parks are getting 'loved to death' - too many people but that's for another post.

.......!

For Zion, and Arches we're probably only a couple years from implementation of policies to limit people. Last I heard they are looking to make most hikes in Zion "permit required" to include Angles landing. For both Zion and Arches they've been taking input on rationing methodology to include options like a time based reservations system to both limit total visitors, and impact at the gates. There has also been considerable discussion on a rationed permit system for hiking many of the National monument and park areas and even more of the BLM areas using variations of the system they are currently using in the vermillion cliffs area (The Wave) How much it helps with crowds is anyone's guess.

[drsteve]

I rode through there on a motorcycle 35 years ago, and it was awesome. Be aware that it can get COLD at altitude--we started one day's ride at 7000 feet, temps were in the 70s. At 13000 temps were right around 40. This was in June.

[Lauren]

WE lived in Estes Park from 1995-2003. Went back twice by about 2008 and have not gone back since for a lot of reasons I won't go in to.

We do love CO, though, and once again this summer we will be spending time in the southwest part of the state with a few days over by CO Springs. We love that area and go back frequently.

Like so many other things, the changes in Estes - in our opinion - are not to our liking. Add to that are the crowds. But Rocky is beautiful in the Fall - that is when we went back.

My friend, 4runnerguy, makes very good points about Vail and Aspen. Been there done that and not on a list of any kind again.

Lauren

[Dadio24]

All of Colorado is crowded in the Summer...it has perfect weather and beautiful. Trout fishing to hiking to relaxing in the pines. I visit every summer...

[2gypsies1]

There's a reason the national parks are so crowded - especially in the summer. They are unique and one-of-a-kind.

I agree, our parks are getting 'loved to death' - too many people but that's for another post.

There are plenty of wonderful national forest campgrounds surrounding the parks if you want a little more quiet atmosphere but don't expect to go to the popular places and expect no crowds. Colorado has some great small towns and areas to explore. I think those might be for you. Some are Buena Vista, Leadville, Gunninson, Silverton, Pagosa Springs, South Fork, Lake City, Ouray.

I'd suggest spending a few days on the west side of Rocky Mtn. Nat'l Park at Grand Lake and doing a day trip on Trail Ridge Rd. and perhaps work in a nice hike. Then you can see what it's all about without dealing with all the crowds for days. Yes, the beetles have ruined much of the forest on the west side but there are still lovely places to explore.

Good luck finding your spot in Colorado. They're out there!

[pconroy328]

Just my opinion, RMNP is a bucket-list item, like Yosemite, Mt. Rushmore, The Mona Lisa, The Eiffel Tower, Venice.

I'm not going back to see Mona again, but I'm glad I went - once.

[Searching_Ut]

Personally I don't think Rocky Mountain National Park is worth fighting the crowds. You can hike to some nice waterfalls, and lakes, but even if miles from the trailhead, you encounter a lot of people. Trailhead parking is difficult, with the shuttle service only being so so. If you tow your trailer over the mountain, you'll be stuck behind and extremely slow moving Subaru, probably with the red lettered license plate both ways. On the downhill side they go so slow you'll have to be in first gear where the engine brake doesn't work. If you want to hang with the crowds, or hit the shops in Estes park it's okay I guess. For outdoor adventure or wilderness experience, not a good choice.

[Thom02099]

evanrem wrote:
Going to Colorado for two weeks this summer and wondering if we should hit Rocky Mountain Nat park or just stay in the national forest around Vail and explore that area. We will be continuing on to Arches NP. Is the Scenery and things to explore much different? Last year we went to Yellowstone and I had it with the crowds by the 4th day and I hear RMNP is pretty busy also. Any input would be appreciated and maybe some ideas on other things to see. We will be traveling with a 34ft TT.
Thanks

Is the Scenery and things to explore much different?

Do you mean between Vail and RMNP, or those two areas vs Yellowstone? They are all very diverse. RMNP gets you way above timberline on a drive on Trail Ridge Road that has to be experienced, as it's difficult to describe. There is a great difference in scenery between Vail and RMNP.

Last year we went to Yellowstone and I had it with the crowds by the 4th day and I hear RMNP is pretty busy also

Over 4.5 million people visited RMNP, and it's about 1/5th or smaller the size of Yellowstone. A goodly percent of folks that visit, don't get much off Trail Ridge Road, and the Alpine Visitors Center up top is packed from opening to closing each day, with Rangers now directing traffic on busy weekends. Just sayin'. If you didn't like crowds in YNP, you probably won't in RMNP. On the weekends, just to get in to the park, you need to arrive very early, like 7ish in order to avoid the lines to get in, which can stretch for a mile or more. Word to the wise...use the Fall River Entrance rather than the Main/Beaver Meadows entrance. Far less crowded trying to get in, but still will be a line.

RMNP offers a LOT of things to do for folks who want to get off the beaten path, and want to do more than about 90% of the folks going there do. In particular, if you're in to hiking, head out of Estes Park on CO 7 and go to the Wild Basin Entrance to the Park. Lots of good trails to hike in that area, beautiful scenery. It does get crowded there as well, but that's because the parking lots are much smaller there.

If you want to stay inside the Park, depending on when you're planning, make reservations NOW. There is a 180 day window, and I can guarantee that weekends within that window are fully booked. I know, because I had to go with some of my 2nd and 3rd choices on the first window day. Also,of the two campgrounds that you may want to consider, Moraine Park is the more popular and in high demand. Glacier Basin is higher in altitude and not quite as popular. Also easier to get reservations, but still can be difficult.

Your 34ft TT will also limit your selection of sites within the CGs in RMNP. There's simply not that many spots that can accommodate a larger trailer. My 25footer is no problem. Get beyond 30 feet and it becomes more tight.

Don't get me wrong...RMNP is one of my very favourite places to go, and I go there often. Since I live close, I can go frequently. I'm also a realist, and this is the reality of RMNP.

One thing that I've been doing in recent years is staying in the USFS CGs south of Estes Park, along CO 7/CO 72. There's 4 of them that one can choose from. No hookups, and they are also popular, but easier to get reservations. H E R E is a link to the CGs in that area...Olive Ridge/Camp Dick/Peaceful Valley are in fairly close proximity to Estes Park. Pawnee CG is no reservations, first come/first served, but if you can get there in the middle of the week, I guarantee you won't be sorry. At over 10000 feet the views are incredible, the hikes are exhilerating and the experience is to be experienced!

[Busskipper]

evanrem wrote:

Going to Colorado for two weeks this summer and

wondering if we should hit Rocky Mountain Nat park

IMHO you should at least drive through a see if it is anything like you thought it might be. Is Crowded but that’s because, like YNP it is POPULAR and GOOD. Like Yogi said “nobody goes there anymore it’s too crowded”. Lots of hikes that can be done with little or no crowds,(just get up and out early) Estes is Crowded Grand Lake not so much, we tend to stay in Grand Lake and in season will just drive through Estes. I, like you do not DO Crowds.

One more option would be to head up around Steamboat Springs – but, it, like Vail, is even pretty crowded in the Summer. Vail has a lacrosse tournament that is around the 4th of July and is now so crowded we no longer get even close then. Minturn to Red Cliff to Leadville on Rt 24 is Great so you might enjoy that if you are in the area, Then on to Buena Vista – Turquoise Lake – Twin Lakes – Arkansas’s River – Collegiates – Independence Pass (length restricted Rt 82) to Maroon Bells in the Toad/TV. I would suggest you might just find your sort of Heaven in Lake City – not crowded and just Beautiful. Ouray – Silverton - 4x4 trails to Die for - Telluride – Trout Lake – Dunton. Could make a run up toward Maroon Bells from this side and catch Marble and Redstone on Rt 133, then out to Moab on I-70

or just stay in the national forest around Vail and explore that area.

See above^^^

We will be continuing on to Arches NP.

If you go to Arches off I-70 I suggest that you jump off on Exit 214 in Utah to catch Rt 128 and follow the Colorado River into Moab, You will LOVE the Drive.

Is the Scenery and things to explore much different?

YES – It would take days to Explain.

Last year we went to Yellowstone and I had it with the crowds by the 4th day and

I hear RMNP is pretty busy also.

Yes! You are Correct!

Any input would be appreciated and maybe

some ideas on other things to see.

Tried to cover that above ^^^

We will be traveling with a 34ft TT.
Thanks

Tried to work up a map but I guess I just have too much to map out – If Vail is already on your Plan I would wonder where you will stay (Not a lot to camp in) The Leadville loop past Lake City and Ouray then on to Moab might work – lots to see and do all different and challenging/fun/exciting.

Just to name drop a few things Peak to Peak Hwy – Golden - Coors – Quincy’s – K’s – Lake City to Silverton on the Alpine Loop/4x4 trail – Train Ride – Hot Tubs - ……………………………

Think you might Like Colorado.

Hope this is of some help,