A/C mod

I love doing outside the box things. I have an 11k roof air that is too loud, OK on real hot, humid FL days and too big at night to keep the humidity down.

I wanted to run my old Toyota Rv on a 2000 watt Honda. Doing some websearching I came to the conclusion that an 8k window unit would serve my purpose.

I purchased an 8k LG window AC w/remote and duct taped and bailing wired it to the Toy and found in direct sun on high 90's Florida days with high humidity it was just sufficient and worked well on the Honda.

Next was a donor roof ac for the base and shell, not an easy find, believe it or not.

I started to convert the window AC to the roof air and ran into some issues, really needed a sheet metal brake and did not give myself enough time, plus the LG was probably not the right choice for this project.

I was running out of time to get ready for a 3 month trip, so put the AC back together and put it in the bathroom window. Not pleasing to the eye but I would rather be cool than look cool.

I have used the 8k with the Honda 2000 for 2 long term trips and several short ones. It works very well, nice and quiet, easy on gas.

I still have the parts I need to convert it and will get back on it someday, just not today!

Keep us posted on how you do.

theoldwizard1 wrote:

EDIT : I found one 5,000 BTU window unit that only require 11.5A to run (no start up spec). You could probably have TWO of them on an RV with a 30A power cord assuming they both do NOT start up at the same time.

11.5A (running) for a 5000 BTU/hr air conditioner is horrible; I think that would be the starting (peak) current specification, or else it is for a much larger unit, or something.

The EER (energy efficiency rating) of an air conditioner is defined as cooling (in BTUs) divided by power consumed (in watts). An EER of 11 ish is typical these days for 5000 BTU window air conditioners. That works out to around 4A running. A quick check of specifications online for one or two verifies that this is approximately typical.

SEER is the seasonal energy efficiency rating, and is the EER averaged over a defined set of conditions (inside and outside temperatures, etc.) that is supposed to simulate a cooling season. The actual energy efficiency varies depending on things like the temperature differential between the hot and cold sides, hence the need for something like SEER.

Good, modern window A/C are much more efficient than RV units. Less power consumed means a large units (more BTUs/cooling) for the same amount of current.

I have wonder the same thing as the OP and there are a couple of issues.

• Extending the controls from the front panel to inside. This might not be an issues any more because it seems like they all have remote control.
• Mounting the unit inside of a well insulated, waterproof housing

EDIT : I found one 5,000 BTU window unit that only require 11.5A to run (no start up spec). You could probably have TWO of them on an RV with a 30A power cord assuming they both do NOT start up at the same time.

MrWizard wrote:
someone better check prices for RV A/C
closer to $800 than $350

his might be dead, might have a spare $99 window unit, might want to cool only the bedroom, might be trying to save on electric on a limited shore connection

found one for $450. according to my abacus, it's closer to $350. :)
bumpy

Thanks itsyrv
I have seen those but didn’t notice the window vents. I’ll take a closer look.

Have you considered one of those small "portable" air conditioner units? They can be bought for under $300 with window vent kits included. The BTU are between 6,000 to 7,500 and use about 9 amps only at full startup load so any decent inverter or generator would power it. Simple, clean and versatile.

MrWizard wrote:
someone better check prices for RV A/C
closer to $800 than $350

, might want to cool only the bedroom, might be trying to save on electric on a limited shore connection

Thanks mrwizard. It’s good to see there is still reason and common sense on this forum. I just want to cool the bedroom enough to get the temps bumped down a little after driving. Sometimes it takes too long at night for the outside ambient temperature to cool it enough to sleep in. It also needs to be a small enough amp draw that it can be used with a small gen and preferably supported by solar. I only have one small window in the bedroom, on the curb side, that I could install a/c and I don’t think it’s smart to ride
down the road with it sticking out. The front is rounded and there are cabinets over the bed so it would require the unit to be about 8 inches over the bed. That doesn’t seem practical. I’m looking at dc powered units but placement is still an issue. So, if someone that is reasonable has enough common sense to offer a better idea I’m all in.

someone better check prices for RV A/C
closer to $800 than $350

his might be dead, might have a spare $99 window unit, might want to cool only the bedroom, might be trying to save on electric on a limited shore connection

I just want to see how this ends

ksg5000 wrote:
Not sure how that would work without a lot of work ... and if your talented enough to make that work why not spend $350 and install a legit rv air conditioner?

Please read the Terms Of Service. using reason and common sense are not permitted in this forum.
bumpy