A.C. PLUG ?

No, you should not feel that way. Campers are made from the inside out. All the screws are installed from the outside. The last thing to go on is the outer "skin", and then nothing is accessible without tearing something up. Cabinets, plugs, everything.

If you can find an exposed wire, inside a close space, you'll probably do better tapping into the wire there, than going through the plug.

The low profile plastic 120VAC RV receptacles are designed to be placed in tight quarters and use the pinch type wire connections. The ROMEX is not cut off like the standard type 120VAC wiring boxes but stripped back and just layed into the fixture. Then we you press it all in place the knife type holders cuts thru each wire and makes contact. This will allow another daisy chain 120VAC receptacle further down the zone. These are not intended to be used as a junction point for additional receptacles.


Another thing to look out for is when these type of receptacles are used a small crease is put on the cable wiring and if you move it, it easily may break into. Then you gots more problems

If you have enough space you might replace the pinch type 120VAC receptacle for a PVC junction box and use a standard 120VAC house type receptacle with screw terminals. The problem of course is going to be finding enough slack in the presently used romex to do this.


Check in with LOWES electric dept and look at all the 120VAC house type items you can use to install another 120VAC receptacle

You may have to install a PVC junction where you have some slack behind your cabinet and install another 120VAC circuit using twist-on wire nut connections

Roy Ken

I'm not sure what you are attempting to do.

This is a plug;


This is a receptacle;


Are you wanting to add another receptacle daisy chained from an existing receptacle?

RV and mobile home receptacles are enclosed and don't need to be in an electrical box. The typical receptacles in a house must be enclosed in an approved electrical box. Usually the RV receptacle must be pried apart.

These receptacles are the same or at least very similar to what is in mobile homes. I have replaced a bunch of them with standard 110 receptacles, but there is usually some slack in the wires on a mobile home. If there is some slack in the wire and enough room ( depth ) you may be able to install a shallow ( remodel type ) box and a standard 110 receptacle to feed your new receptacle.

Can he not just cut the wire to the existing RV type outlet then splice in a new normal house type receptacle with box as space allows?

Shallow old work box

15 amp duplex receptacle

Cut or pull wire from existing receptacle. Install box with wires through box entrances. Attach wires to new receptacle or establish pigtail-3 wire from existing wires to new receptacle. Install new wires from extension of branch to new receptacle.

This is one of the most basic, easy projects for DIY electrical work and you'd be surprised how often it's done wrong. Phases are 180, ground not connected, wires stripped too much....I could go on. Just look up the basic instructions on how to connect and don't overload the existing branch with too many higher watt devices.

BTW, learning electricalese, the language, is something to try for. A plug is a male cord end. A receptacle is what the plug goes into.

wmoses wrote:
Can he not just cut the wire to the existing RV type outlet then splice in a new normal house type receptacle with box as space allows?

Yes, if there is slack in the wire. That is a big "if."

Any splice must be in a junction box.

beemerphile1 wrote:
Any splice must be in a junction box.

Why? What's the difference between a junction box and using connectors on the wire joints and then assuring the wires are inaccessible?

Bobbo wrote:
Yes, if there is slack in the wire. That is a big "if."

The way I was thinking of the splice, it would create the slack in the wire. In other words the new receptacle would be "inserted" in the existing run to the existing outlet daisy-chaining them together. Would that not work?