โAug-21-2012 08:44 AM
โMar-31-2013 11:56 AM
2019Keystone,Impact26v-TH,solarpower
,Lithium Batt.. all to take our 2012 Yamaha FJR along to ride..โMar-30-2013 10:43 PM
Cummins12V98 wrote:BarneyS wrote:
Posted for Cummins12V98,
Thank you Barney for posting these pics!
I noticed when I looked at the pics I needed to add insulation between the fans. Those two fans are what came on the rv. I installed the single one with a switch in the lower compartment. I aligned the single fan behind the upper vent slot in the access door and as close to it as possible.
For now I am running the single fan all the time and have the double fans still tied into the controll board. The daytime temps have been in the low 70's and the frig has been steady at 40 degrees on #3 but the freezer is colder than before with the ice getting very hard. So just the one fan pulling air thru the back side of the frig really makes the frig work better.
I have a constant hot wire and inline fuse that I can use for the two fans when it gets really hot to plug the two fans into if the computer does not keep them running all the time.
I will report back when we get to SoCal this fall how it works with all three fans running with the temps 90-100 degrees.
It really helps to seal off the holes around the fans. The two fan pic is looking down from the top access/vent door. They are mounted mid way between the two access doors.
Thanks again Barney
โMar-30-2013 10:22 PM
โSep-30-2012 05:57 PM
โSep-30-2012 05:19 PM
Irelands child wrote:
I 'abandoned' the rattling original fan in place as I could not reach the screws. I'll pull it off if I ever have to pull the reefer. I then Installed two ~45cfm computer case fans - should be enough vs that clunk that was in the fridge compartment, but since it was a 4 fan pack, have a couple more, just in case.
The original thermistor switch on the fridge cooling fins had died (these are generally cheap junk) so I ended up going to Home Depot and picking up an attic fan switch. Works perfectly.
This is what I used @$13.99USD with free shipping (also a one day $5.00 rebate on them as well):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103052
The 1 amp fuse is plenty of capacity for these two at something like .15 amps each.
Photo also shows the new 'attic fan' thermostat which is set at about 100*F.
I also have a bypass toggle switch just in case plus the wiring 'cleaned up' since the photo was taken.
โSep-30-2012 11:00 AM
โSep-25-2012 03:54 AM
โSep-21-2012 09:58 AM
โSep-21-2012 05:09 AM
slarsen wrote:I seen one of those while I was at MB a couple weeks ago and I almost bought it. My fridge stays cold enough but it is on the coldest setting. I am going to give them a second look. Thanks, Will
My refrig. tended in the mid-40's. A little scary. I got an inside portable refrig. fan from Tweety's that runs on two 'D' size batteries. Instructions said it would run for a month on the batteries. I doubted it, but in fact, it does.
Anyway, back to the topic: it reduced the temperature about 10 or more degrees, despite backing off one position on the temp. switch on the front of the refrigerator. And the temps are much more consistent, so no freezing things at the back while things in the door pockets are too warm. Like milk.
This might fix your problem, and for just under $20, you aren't risking much. Camping World has them, too, 'on sale' for about $16. Called a Frig Airator or some such.
โSep-21-2012 04:16 AM
โSep-20-2012 10:20 PM
โSep-20-2012 06:25 PM
โAug-27-2012 05:30 PM
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
โAug-27-2012 04:58 PM
enblethen wrote:
I would leave the space between fans open. I doubt whether closing that up will help and it may even be detrimental.
In the first photo, I would get some metal and install curved piece between the wood member and the top of the opening. Make sure the metal goes between tubes and the cooling unit tubes. The squared off may slow the air down.
Looks good!
โAug-27-2012 11:34 AM
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow