I checked out the wiring a bit more last night and can confirm the wire coming out of converter is 10 AWG, not 14 AWG. So I would be replacing the 10 gauge with 4 AWG and connecting it to the 10 AWG tail coming out of the converter.
As for consolidating that mess of wire somewhat, I got around to making a little diagram of what I mean.
[img]
[/img]
Eh, first try at pics so hopefully I used the stickied app link right.
This is what I mean for the terminal block (plus the negative wire which I figured I may as well just connect to a bus as depicted).
Now apart from the wires coming out from the converter there are 5 smaller bundled connections of wire, also spliced together with plastic end caps. I don't plan to mess with them but I'll likely consider moving them to a similar terminal block to keep things tidy.
Unfortunately it may be a bit too late to increase converter amperage conveniently. I already ordered a 30 amp surge protector and the pace of the move/dropping temperatures won't allow me much time with the workload I've got on the table already. I do see beefing up the 10 AWG battery/converter connection as necessary though. Still haven't worked out the battery side of the wiring. I need to find room on the tongue to mount the second battery and build a housing for that (was thinking an angle iron frame, plywood and plasti-dip). It may be hard to find room without relocating the dual propane tanks. I also need to set up a shunt for the Trimetric (had been planning on mounting it in my battery box). I'll be removing the Zamp solar pre-wiring and running the meter wires up through the floor where the solar wires were.
The solar I use is a 100 watt Renogy suitcase, and in the interest of simplicity I'd been planning on just hooking it directly to the battery terminals with the clips that came with the kit for now (likely upgrade to MC4 eventually). Since I'd like the meter to measure solar, I guess I'll need a terminal bus on the negative wire just after the shunt and connect to that instead?
Sorry for the long/disjointed post.
EDIT: Yeah I'm not sure that pic worked. This is the link: http://i.imgur.com/w8RHQt1.png
As for consolidating that mess of wire somewhat, I got around to making a little diagram of what I mean.
[img]
[/img]Eh, first try at pics so hopefully I used the stickied app link right.
This is what I mean for the terminal block (plus the negative wire which I figured I may as well just connect to a bus as depicted).
Now apart from the wires coming out from the converter there are 5 smaller bundled connections of wire, also spliced together with plastic end caps. I don't plan to mess with them but I'll likely consider moving them to a similar terminal block to keep things tidy.
Unfortunately it may be a bit too late to increase converter amperage conveniently. I already ordered a 30 amp surge protector and the pace of the move/dropping temperatures won't allow me much time with the workload I've got on the table already. I do see beefing up the 10 AWG battery/converter connection as necessary though. Still haven't worked out the battery side of the wiring. I need to find room on the tongue to mount the second battery and build a housing for that (was thinking an angle iron frame, plywood and plasti-dip). It may be hard to find room without relocating the dual propane tanks. I also need to set up a shunt for the Trimetric (had been planning on mounting it in my battery box). I'll be removing the Zamp solar pre-wiring and running the meter wires up through the floor where the solar wires were.
The solar I use is a 100 watt Renogy suitcase, and in the interest of simplicity I'd been planning on just hooking it directly to the battery terminals with the clips that came with the kit for now (likely upgrade to MC4 eventually). Since I'd like the meter to measure solar, I guess I'll need a terminal bus on the negative wire just after the shunt and connect to that instead?
Sorry for the long/disjointed post.
EDIT: Yeah I'm not sure that pic worked. This is the link: http://i.imgur.com/w8RHQt1.png
