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Installing metal valve stems for TPMS

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have a new TPMS and bought metal valve stems. May be a dumb question, but I am wondering what the easier/better way is to remove the old rubber stems and install the new ones?

Lift one wheel at a time at home and take a wheel at a time to a tire shop? I'd rather not have to jack up the whole side. Guess I could temporarily mount the spare to be able to take two off on a side at one time.

Or take it to a regular tire shop? Are some tire shops better equipped and more knowledgeable to do this or is it just simple stuff for any tire shop? Brand new TT and I worry about someone scratching something or leaving dirty fingerprints on the exterior - or worse...
10 REPLIES 10

Ron3rd
Explorer II
Explorer II
Take your TPMS with you when you get the valve stems installed. I also have Alloy wheels and America's Tire picked out the correct one to fit as it required a smaller base. The counterbore was smaller on my wheels than you normally need but they had the correct ones.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thx, for all the comments.

Thanks John for that interesting link to your experience with the metal stems. Funny, I have the identical Hawkshead T-valves... 3 years later, their design appears to be unchanged. We have alloy rims though so I am hoping there is a nice flat surface of sufficient diameter to seal to. I like the concept of the T-valves which is why I got them.

Now you have me wondering. Would it be a good idea to add an o-ring on the inside to avoid corrosion? Where would I get the right one? Would a generic one work? I'm not sure why the washer (goes on inside) is thin and dished. I suppose to allow the rubber to deform into it?

Good suggestion on balancing the wheels while in the shop. I'd prefer to balance them in place on the TT to account for the brake drum, etc. being out of balance too but doing the wheel separately is probably better than doing nothing at first.

I phoned the local tire shop we usually use (Kal-tire) and they said they can lift the TT on a hoist so that's where I'll take it. I've had good luck with them on a few oddball tires/rims before. The guy said to make sure I have the torque specs for the nut which is something I hadn't thought of. Will have to check the instructions or phone them. Hawkshead isn't too far away from us if we ever have issues...

And here I thought you just slap those li'l valve thingies in there and you never, ever have think about them again. But then, when we bought our first TT, I thought you just hook it up and drive happily off into the sunset, camping with nary a worry about anything in your TT ever after.

Jbarca, the new TT is awesome. Many great new features for 2014 too.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ron3rd wrote:
I just had the metal valve stems installed on my wheels for my TPMS. I took it to America's Tire and they did all the work and BALANCED the rims at the same time. The last 2 trailers we've owned did not come with the tires/wheels balanced. Cost about $70.00 including the balancing. Well worth it IMO. Any decent tire shop can handle it.


Ditto on that...get the tires balanced after the new stems are installed.

Ron3rd
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just had the metal valve stems installed on my wheels for my TPMS. I took it to America's Tire and they did all the work and BALANCED the rims at the same time. The last 2 trailers we've owned did not come with the tires/wheels balanced. Cost about $70.00 including the balancing. Well worth it IMO. Any decent tire shop can handle it.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Red

I have done my own. Pending the actual wheel, this can be a bear to get the metal stem to seal.

My 16" rims have a flat boss for the valve stem and they seal up great. My prior 15" rims... that was not as fun but I did get them to work. The rim has curves in it and the punch the hole right through the curves. A rubber snap in stem seals up to the out of round hole, but a metal stem does mot flex like the snap ins.

Here is my post on this Mounting metal valve stems in trailer wheels - Need help

If you go to a tire shop, before they touch the camper, ask and have them show you where they are going to jack up the camper. While they may be pro's at tires, they may not know about the issues with trailer axles and not to be jacking on them.

And I agree, you have to do the wheel nut torque check, 50 miles, 100 and 200 miles after they put them on. Brand new painted rims with paint in the wheel hole bevel can be the worst.

Good luck and glad to hear the new camper has come.

John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I do that stuff at home. I have a small pry bar with a curved end and with some help from a BFH I can break beads easily. I've replaced stems on 3 of my RVs. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

PenMan
Explorer
Explorer
Just did the same thing yesterday. My owner's manual says to jack up the frame, not the axles. I did what it said with an 8 ton bottle jack. Removed two wheels and had the new metal valve stems installed and then tires balanced. Did the same thing to the other side of the trailer. I called that a good days work and quit (I'm retired so I can do that now).
Chris and Jane
2013 Open Range Journeyer JT337RLS
2006 Dodge Ram 3500, 4x4, Crew Cab, DRW, 5.9 turbo diesel
1996 Harley Davidson Electraglide

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
ddndoug wrote:
I would recommend taking it to a qualified tire shop also. They will have the tools to do it very quickly and then retorque the wheels to proper specs. While they are doing it, make sure to find out if you need to re-torque them in 50 or 500 miles.

Doug


X2. I brought mine in and they did a fine job. We were taking up a lot of room in the parking lot so we got some pretty snappy service, Everything was A1.

Stop by beforehand and discuss your situation with a manager. Have him show you where he would want you to park. Make sure you can get in and out and that his work area is appropriate. Good luck.
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
'05 Ford F350 Crew 6.0 DRW Bulletproofed. Pullrite Super 5th 18K 2100 hitch.
'13 Keystone Cougar 333MKS, Maxxfan 7500, Progressive EMS-HW50C, Grey Water System.

ddndoug
Explorer
Explorer
I would recommend taking it to a qualified tire shop also. They will have the tools to do it very quickly and then retorque the wheels to proper specs. While they are doing it, make sure to find out if you need to re-torque them in 50 or 500 miles.

Doug
2009 Four Winds Hurricane 33T
F53 Ford Chassis w/Triton V-10

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
If there is a large reputable tire dealer nearby with a area large enough to get the trailer in I would take it to them. Don't know that I would trust a small tire shop to do it
A large RV dealer may have the capability to do it. Or at least remove the wheels for you and take them to a tire store.