It took me a good month of study and work to switch the old batteries in the RV to LiFePo4. Bought the LION 105ah batteries at Costco. I added all the recommended equipment because they seem to be needed to charge the batteries fully and reduce wear and tear on the alternator when on the road. In all the project cost about $2650. Very pricy but hopefully wonโt need new batteries every 2 or 3 years. I gave up on cheap batteries because the would only last a season in my old RV. For the new one I wanted battery power to be more reliable. Plus I added functionality.
First I disconnected and removed the WFCO charger/converter. Then I installed a Progressive Industries hard wired surge protector to the existing incoming wiring. It barely fit in the lower compartment. I had to cut into the plastic bottom of the box.
Then I wired in the Renogy DC to DC converter mounted on a 1/8โ piece of plywood over the batteries. I used the styrofoam that the batteries were packaged in to fit them in the box without a tie down. It will also insulate them a bit from cold.
It required a hole through the metal from the battery management side of the compartment to the battery side to run the #2 AWG wire from the solenoid/battery shutoff. This wire was connected to a 60 amp ANL fuse then to the Renogy input. A wire was also connected from the starter signal bolt on the solenoid to the Renogy converter to signal when the converter should run. I ran that underneath the battery box through a small opening and back into the rear where the other wires entered the box.
The incoming negative wire was bolted to the frame. The outgoing positive returned to the battery pack. The output negative wire was attached to the shunt for the Victron battery monitor. I bought the Bluetooth model-712. The negative to the distribution bos also was attached to the shunts. All the โloadsโ are on one side and the other is connected to the batteries.
Finally I wired in the Progressive Dynamics 9100L. I was advised to place the charger as close as possible to the batteries. So I found through a post here that there is a bit of room under the refrigerator and beside the water tank that is under there. I cut through the panel with a multi tool to make a hole just large enough to slip the charger in. Then I drilled a 1โ hole in the floor and fished the cables down through a protective metal channel and into the battery compartment for the positive and to the frame for the negative. I was able to use the #2 wires with the #4 connections because someone here told me about these connectors.
I slipped the converter into the opening I made in the panel.
Not everything goes perfectly of course. I thought the Amazon Warehouse charger was broken because the fan didnโt come on and I didnโt get current at the output side. But now Iโm not sure it was getting power. It would be nice if there was a light to show the unit is operational. I returned it and purchased a new one for about $30 more. It has about a 30โ electric cord and I did not have room to install an outlet so I used a 12/3 extension cord. The first one I bought was too short and the second one needed to be plugged in behind the water tank so I cut another small hole to connect the cords. The extension cord end was cut off and it was wired to the converter breaker along with the refrigerator as designed.
Of course I had to track down a few problems. I used a two post buss bar and it was not getting power from one side to the other so I had to move the battery connection to a single post. There was enough room on one post for the Renogy, the PD, the distribution panel and the battery wires. I still didnโt get charge so I double checked the negative connection on the frame and they were both loose. I must have told myself Iโd come back with a wrench and tighten them but I forgot.
The Victron battery monitor was essential as it shows if the batteries are charging. I ran the data cable from the shunt to the monitor also through the hole in the bottom of the fridge compartment. I cut the hole in the panel a bit larger to fit a 4x8 vent cover to give the PD plenty of ventilation. And the monitor is a bit low but it has an app on my phone so I only have to look at it occasionally.
First I disconnected and removed the WFCO charger/converter. Then I installed a Progressive Industries hard wired surge protector to the existing incoming wiring. It barely fit in the lower compartment. I had to cut into the plastic bottom of the box.
Then I wired in the Renogy DC to DC converter mounted on a 1/8โ piece of plywood over the batteries. I used the styrofoam that the batteries were packaged in to fit them in the box without a tie down. It will also insulate them a bit from cold.
It required a hole through the metal from the battery management side of the compartment to the battery side to run the #2 AWG wire from the solenoid/battery shutoff. This wire was connected to a 60 amp ANL fuse then to the Renogy input. A wire was also connected from the starter signal bolt on the solenoid to the Renogy converter to signal when the converter should run. I ran that underneath the battery box through a small opening and back into the rear where the other wires entered the box.
The incoming negative wire was bolted to the frame. The outgoing positive returned to the battery pack. The output negative wire was attached to the shunt for the Victron battery monitor. I bought the Bluetooth model-712. The negative to the distribution bos also was attached to the shunts. All the โloadsโ are on one side and the other is connected to the batteries.
Finally I wired in the Progressive Dynamics 9100L. I was advised to place the charger as close as possible to the batteries. So I found through a post here that there is a bit of room under the refrigerator and beside the water tank that is under there. I cut through the panel with a multi tool to make a hole just large enough to slip the charger in. Then I drilled a 1โ hole in the floor and fished the cables down through a protective metal channel and into the battery compartment for the positive and to the frame for the negative. I was able to use the #2 wires with the #4 connections because someone here told me about these connectors.
I slipped the converter into the opening I made in the panel.
Not everything goes perfectly of course. I thought the Amazon Warehouse charger was broken because the fan didnโt come on and I didnโt get current at the output side. But now Iโm not sure it was getting power. It would be nice if there was a light to show the unit is operational. I returned it and purchased a new one for about $30 more. It has about a 30โ electric cord and I did not have room to install an outlet so I used a 12/3 extension cord. The first one I bought was too short and the second one needed to be plugged in behind the water tank so I cut another small hole to connect the cords. The extension cord end was cut off and it was wired to the converter breaker along with the refrigerator as designed.
Of course I had to track down a few problems. I used a two post buss bar and it was not getting power from one side to the other so I had to move the battery connection to a single post. There was enough room on one post for the Renogy, the PD, the distribution panel and the battery wires. I still didnโt get charge so I double checked the negative connection on the frame and they were both loose. I must have told myself Iโd come back with a wrench and tighten them but I forgot.
The Victron battery monitor was essential as it shows if the batteries are charging. I ran the data cable from the shunt to the monitor also through the hole in the bottom of the fridge compartment. I cut the hole in the panel a bit larger to fit a 4x8 vent cover to give the PD plenty of ventilation. And the monitor is a bit low but it has an app on my phone so I only have to look at it occasionally.
