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RVcircus's avatar
RVcircus
Explorer II
Feb 23, 2016

Replacing our RV electric cord hatch

On our last trip we added replacing our electric cord hatch to the list of needed repairs. Dealing with brittle plastic parts has become part of owning an older RV, so on our last trip to Camping World we picked up a replacement.

Foolishly, I assumed that the electric cord hatch would be a 10 minute job just like most of the other pieces of plastic we've replaced. In my mind it was take 3 screws out, replace the cover, zip in 3 screws and seal. Well, like so many other times, I was wrong! The replacement wasn’t too complicated, but the power cord needed to be removed from the converter so instead of 10 minutes it took me about an hour.

Here are the basic steps I took to complete the job:

Step 1: Disconnect from shore power and disconnect the RV house battery. If you're not comfortable working with electric I'd skip this project.
Step 2: Remove the electric cord hatch from the side of the RV
Step 3: Disconnect the power cable from the breaker and pull it out of the RV
Step 4: Install the new hatch using butyl tape between the side of the RV and hatch. Seal with RV specific sealant
Step 5: Install electric cord through new hatch and reconnect to the breaker. Connect shore power, connect battery, turn on the breakers, and test.

Check out our install video to see my handsome self in action:
https://youtu.be/tVqbXcs4Jno

And our related blog post:
http://www.rvcircus.com/replace-electric-cord-hatch/
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Feb 23, 2016
    Lynnmor wrote:
    RVcircus wrote:


    Did you have any issues with the original setup that made you change over? I'm just curious since I'm considering going the receptacle route.


    Yes I had issues.

    1. Factory installed inlet with only 3 screws holding.
    2. Factory used screws that were too large holding the cover open.
    3. Twist-lock cord end failed with one terminal loose inside.
    4. DW hated that stupid plastic ring.
    5. Cord took up space, now it doesn't.
    6. Had to drag out the whole cord when only a little was needed.
    7. Factory didn't tighten wires in the inlet, fire hazard in wall.
    8. Can wipe cord with one hand while pushing in with other.
    9. Plug is easy too find, I clip on a tether.
    10. Cheap and easy to replace.
    11. There was a vacuum breaker installed directly above the inlet, and they normally expel water.

    I have now used this for a few years and am happy with the decision. For safety reasons, I don't want a potential problem connection in my wall. Just a kid tramping on the cord could cause a failure at the worst possible place.


    Thanks for the insight! I certainly don't have a list of 11 things wrong with my current setup, so I think I'll stick with what's working
  • Lynnmor's avatar
    Lynnmor
    Explorer
    Feb 23, 2016
    RVcircus wrote:


    Did you have any issues with the original setup that made you change over? I'm just curious since I'm considering going the receptacle route.


    Yes I had issues.

    1. Factory installed inlet with only 3 screws holding.
    2. Factory used screws that were too large holding the cover open.
    3. Twist-lock cord end failed with one terminal loose inside.
    4. DW hated that stupid plastic ring.
    5. Cord took up space, now it doesn't.
    6. Had to drag out the whole cord when only a little was needed.
    7. Factory didn't tighten wires in the inlet, fire hazard in wall.
    8. Can wipe cord with one hand while pushing in with other.
    9. Plug is easy too find, I clip on a tether.
    10. Cheap and easy to replace.
    11. There was a vacuum breaker installed directly above the inlet, and they normally expel water.

    I have now used this for a few years and am happy with the decision. For safety reasons, I don't want a potential problem connection in my wall. Just a kid tramping on the cord could cause a failure at the worst possible place.
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Feb 23, 2016
    Lynnmor wrote:
    I did away with the twist-lock connection and hard wired the cord. I modified a larger hatch so tangles are not a problem.
    Cord


    Nice work! It looks like the modified hatch would make the cord much easier to manage.

    Did you have any issues with the original setup that made you change over? I'm just curious since I'm considering going the receptacle route.
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Feb 23, 2016
    RoyB wrote:
    I have been thinking about changing mine over to a receptacle type instead of pulling out the cable.


    I regretted not changing over to the receptacle type plug as soon as I realized I couldn't squeeze the plug through the cover. If I knew beforehand that I needed to pull the wire out I would have just changed over. I'm sick of wrestling the cord and I lug a 25' extension along anyway.
  • Lynnmor's avatar
    Lynnmor
    Explorer
    Feb 23, 2016
    I did away with the twist-lock connection and hard wired the cord. I modified a larger hatch so tangles are not a problem.
    Cord
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    Feb 23, 2016
    RVcircus - I don't think I would have cut my cord either - that just adds to another failure point...

    I have been thinking about changing mine over to a receptacle type instead of pulling out the cable. Drew up all of my artwork and drawings to show this and that was as far as I got haha... I did install an 120VAC water proof outlet with lid next to the 30AMP cable hatch that is fed by my 1500WATT PSW Inverter. The game plan was to run a short adapter cable between the two receptacles to allow my 1500WATT Power Inverter to feed all of my 120VAC outlets around the trailer. I can still do this with ease but it would be nicer not to have the long 30AMP cable to deal with. I just pull out what I need to adapt to the 1500WATT 120VAC receptacle... Works great...

    Hince my pictorial drawing haha...


    Roy Ken
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Feb 23, 2016
    schlep1967 wrote:
    Step 5: Install electric cord through new hatch and reconnect to the breaker. Connect shore power, connect battery, turn on the breakers, and test.

    I think I would connect battery before connecting shore power. With breakers in the off position it may not matter.

    Nice job!


    Thanks for checking it out.
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Feb 23, 2016
    Anmacc2 wrote:
    msgtord wrote:
    You did allot of extra work for nothing. I replaced mine and did not have to remove the cord. The replacement cover is "notched" so you can push through the plug without disconnecting from the converter.


    Mine is also notched so all I needed to do was push the cord through. Something else I do... I don't pull my power cord out. I run an extension cord right up to the hatch and keep the plug protected. I have to replace the extension cord every year to 18 months because of sun/salt/elements fatiguing the cord. It is much easier to replace the extension cord rather than replacing the cord to the converter.


    Mine is notched as well, but the end of my cord is too big to push through. Maybe my plug is unusually large? Maybe I just need to get stronger? The hatch I picked up isn't the greatest and it seemed to be on the verge of breaking if I forced it.
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Feb 23, 2016
    TucsonJim wrote:
    I thought you were supposed to cut the cord, put in the new hatch and then tape the cord back up? ;)

    Your video is a good DIY tutorial.

    Jim


    I was ready to cut the cable with a chainsaw, but changed my mind at the last minute;)
  • schlep1967's avatar
    schlep1967
    Nomad
    Feb 23, 2016
    Step 5: Install electric cord through new hatch and reconnect to the breaker. Connect shore power, connect battery, turn on the breakers, and test.

    I think I would connect battery before connecting shore power. With breakers in the off position it may not matter.

    Nice job!

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