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Roof Coating - Finally applied bedliner to my roof & pics

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,
10-12-14 edit.

I really liked the idea of the herculiner roof, and many have asked how it worked out for me. Well it is peeling off in some sections, and that I was not to happy about. So I just got finished with cleaning the whole roof, and recoating it with some two part roof coating (second link in the original post).

Where I had taken the time and cleaned the roof really well, and applied a thick coat of Herculiner, it seems to be holding up. But then I got lazy and put on 4 more gallons to the rest of the roof, and did not clean it well, and in many locations it went on really thin. The thick herculiner is still there, and will not pull off the roof. Some thinner areas, I was able to scrub it off with a washcloth. I do know the first area I did around my bathroom skylight and towards the rearward solar panels, and I covered the side of the RV with plastic, and washed it really well. That area, and where it was applied thick is still in great shape.

However it was so much easier to apply the two part roof coating tonight. And I did have to scrub and dry each square foot of the roof really well. The coating was put on thick. I only bought 5 gallons, and think that I will need another 5 to finish the project.

Because my RV has been in covered RV storage for a year, I can not really walk around on the roof, but have about 3' clearance between the roof and some bird screen to keep birds out of the attic area of the storage place. So it is really difficult on my knees to work on it. But next weekend I should be able to finish the whole roof again. Sad that it only lasted a few years, I was very hopeful about it.





I have been talking about applying white bedliner to my roof for the past year or so, and collecting opinions of what to use, how it worked, ect. Even talked with a couple of people who had Rino Liner installed on their roof. White color is optional, and takes about 2 weeks to arrive. Cost for Rino Liner installed is around $3,000 - $4,250. Part of the high cost involves washing the old roof well, and having to remove the A/C covers, and roof vents. Masking anything that you don't want coated with the rino liner, and getting it into a huge spray booth with proper ventilation. It is a 3 day process too.

I decided to use Herculiner, do it yourself roll on white bedliner material. As the time got closer, and I started to collect the required equipment, I chickened out - two weekends in a row! Herculiner is rubber pellets disolved in Xyelene, and like acetone, will disolve normal govles, so special ones from Graingers that will last 16 hours when exposed to Acetone or Xyelene where ordered, along with a chemical carbon gas respirator. Chemical resistant coveralls and some other painting supplys from Home Depot (blue masking tape, .7 mil plastic to protect the sides of the RV, extra paint brushes, and metal paint stir for a drill to keep the rubber in suspension in the chemicals). These extra where about $150 in supplies.

Acetone is nothing to play around with, neither is Xyelene. Here is the website for Herculiner. I ordered white bedliner.

http://www.herculiner.com/product_info.html

My 14 year old rubber roof had almost all the white parts of the EPDM roof flake off, leaving behind large black areas, that all the white came off when scrubbed with some TSP soap. Instructions call for cleaning with TSP (Tri Sodioum Phosphate) a mild and great soap, then clean with acetone, then wait for that to evaperate, and apply the bed liner material.

The installation went really well. My fears where not founded, and it applied well, thick, and I was able to pour some material directly on the roof, move it around with a paint brush, then direct it over the side, to the masking tape line, and get it even and to the edge that I wanted, without any going down the side of the RV onto the plastic.

I put extra material around each solar panel mount, and covered those extra well. And also coated well around each roof vent, and the shower skylight. The skylight had been leaking, and there had been places where the old roof had shrunk, and hairline cracks up to 1/8" wide where in places.

I really should have done this 2-3 years ago, when the roof was in much better shape.

My friend did a similar roof repair, yet he used something else. His was much easier to apply, and took about 3 gallons to complete his 30' fifth wheel. It is also a bright white finish, and looks like it will last for years. Probably a lot thicker than the original roofing, and should be quiet in the rain, as well as better insulation, and no white streaks.

http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html

By using a two part roof material, he has a roof that will not disolve in the rain. I had put a single part product on my old camper roof back in 1995, and it did disolve in the rain after sitting in Washington for a few years. It was a white roof coating sold by Home Depot at that time. Don't recall the brand name though.

So I wanted to use something a little harder, and I think the bedliner coating will be difficult to cut with a knife! All I need to do now is get 3 more gallons of the stuff, and apply it to the roof. The first gallon covered an area about 4' x 12' long, and around most of my roof vents, skylights, and solar panel mounts. Now I just have to cover the rest of the roof. It should go well, and take about 40 minutes per gallon, not including time to wash the roof, and relocate the solar panels.

IF I had known about the EPDM coating, and it does not require a chemical mask to install it, I might have used that. Yet I had already ordered the bedliner material, and I have my heart set on that super tough bedliner material now.

For those with white streaks on the RV sidewall, and wanting to get rid of them, the EPDM coating in the link above will not cause white streaks! For that, it is worth it. It would have been great to install the EPDM coating when my RV was only 8 - 9 years old, when the roof was still in great condition, because it makes the roof totally 1 peice, with no seams anymore. The same coating covers all the joints, right to the side of the roof vent, or to a certain part of the skylight. You protect the area you don't want coated with masking tape, and remove the masking tape while the product is still not fully cured, so it will come off cleanly.

Yet the EPDM coating is going to be slippery when wet. Not a problem for my friend, who does not get on his RV roof (until that plant was growing out of the roof material). With my solar panels, I wanted something a little more non-slip, and the Herculiner is non-slip, should be very quiet in the rain, and very durable.

And no more white streaks - Priiceless!

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

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76 REPLIES 76

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Golden_HVAC wrote:


http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html


Check out their website. Call them on Monday and ask what they have to say about their product going onto TPO roofs. They probably have had someone try it and give feedback to them.!

Good luck,

Fred.

You can use the product over a TPO roof if you use the ProFlex Primer first. I used it and posted about it here with pictures.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
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Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
Golden_HVAC wrote:


http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html


Check out their website. Call them on Monday and ask what they have to say about their product going onto TPO roofs. They probably have had someone try it and give feedback to them.!

Good luck,

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

Escapees.com

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
The old rubber roof probably is 1/2 pound per square foot or less. When I coated my roof with Herculiner, the 4 gallon cans probably overall weight was only 32 pounds, but about 1/3 of that is the chemical that evaporated, leaving behind the rubber coating.

So Rino Liner would be about 40 pounds at the very most for the whole roof.

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

Escapees.com

PennyPA
Explorer
Explorer
And wondering just what the actual weight of the rhino roof is compared to the old rubber roof.
COPD and LVRS
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certified106
Explorer
Explorer
MdMike1007 wrote:
Thanks Fred... Yes they tore off the rubber, repaired the rotted areas, and then coated the roof with a primer then the coating. If I can get the pics from the coating uploaded this week I will post them. My wife is out of town with the camera and the phone pics don't show a good image.

I will say that the rubber roof was heavier in weight then this stuff. I checked out a 4x4 sample of both at the shop before mine was set to go in. They did a nice job and now it is watertight.


Just curious how happy you have been with the roof coating you had done and what the actual roof product was?
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MdMike1007
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Fred... Yes they tore off the rubber, repaired the rotted areas, and then coated the roof with a primer then the coating. If I can get the pics from the coating uploaded this week I will post them. My wife is out of town with the camera and the phone pics don't show a good image.

I will say that the rubber roof was heavier in weight then this stuff. I checked out a 4x4 sample of both at the shop before mine was set to go in. They did a nice job and now it is watertight.

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
MdMike1007 wrote:
I am having a spray on roof coating done this weekend. I have a piece of roofing material, under the rubber that needs replacement. This is a spray on bedliner type roof. To have it replaced was slightly more expensive then a rubber roof. The extra $500 spent versus a rubber roof is minor compared to the durability and maintenance free qualities of the spray on. I will post pics after this is completed. BTW the best warranty I can get for the rubber roof is 5 years vs 20 years for the spray on. No, I will not have the camper for 20 years, but, I will have the lack of worry and maintenance as well as a sealed unit so for a 5-7 life that I expect to keep the camper it is worth it to me.


http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/fd1007/library/RV%20Roof


I am guessing that you have a Rino Liner dealer installing the new roof? With a 20 year warranty, I would guess that they wanted to have bare plywood to install their roof over the RV, not coating the original roof that seems like it was in really bad shape.

Here is a couple of your pictures.





It looks like you had some soft roof by the ladder, and perhaps in other areas, or where lucky that nothing else was damaged.

From the looks of this plywood repair, the shop is doing a very good quality job!



Good luck,

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

Escapees.com

MdMike1007
Explorer
Explorer
I am having a spray on roof coating done this weekend. I have a piece of roofing material, under the rubber that needs replacement. This is a spray on bedliner type roof. To have it replaced was slightly more expensive then a rubber roof. The extra $500 spent versus a rubber roof is minor compared to the durability and maintenance free qualities of the spray on. I will post pics after this is completed. BTW the best warranty I can get for the rubber roof is 5 years vs 20 years for the spray on. No, I will not have the camper for 20 years, but, I will have the lack of worry and maintenance as well as a sealed unit so for a 5-7 life that I expect to keep the camper it is worth it to me.


http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/fd1007/library/RV%20Roof

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
rideagiant wrote:
This is a great thread!! I'm currently educating myself on the best way to protect/repair my roof on my 28' 2000 Tioga.

I don't see a clear reference to this so I wanted to ask; does it seem like the best practice is to remove the black membrane altogether and then apply a new coating? Mine is bare and black/chalky in several large spots allover my roof. It looks as though the previous owner didn't do a good enough job on the white coating the last time he covered it.

There is very thin (3/16-1/8") plywood directly under the black membrane. I just planned on ripping the whole membrane off and going the Grizzly coating route (just got off their chat line) right over the plywood. Probably curing the first coat, eterna-bonding the seals, flashing, and seams before applying the second coat.

Would removing the membrane have any advantages/disadvantages to applying the bedliner type coating?

Fred, thank you for being so active and involved in this thread. You don't find too many threads THIS helpful!

--Jonathan


I had thought that Herculiner would be a great coating, but it ended up not lasting so long. After a couple of years, it started to peal off where it was applied to thin, and washed away where I had not cleaned the roof very well when I applied it back in 2011.

Read the first page again, and it's update edit where I said I coated my RV with a two part EPDM coating. I would highly recommend coating your remaining roof material, not bare plywood.

I would not recommend any single part coating from a can (though Herculiner and Rino Liner are actually rubber particles suspended in solvent, so once the solvent evaporates, then the second part is left behind as a durable solid). The two part coating that I applied last fall, it has a catalysist that is stirred in for about 10 minutes, then let to combine for about 1 hour, then it is applied with a remaining 'pot' life of about 4 hours at 65F, longer when it is cooler, and less time on a really warm day. It cures if exposed to over 55F in about a week, quicker when warmer.

Some have ordered EPDM or had it factory installed where their motorhome was manufactured. The factory install has the advantage that a RV manufacture buys huge 500' long rolls of EPDM at a fantastic price per square foot. ALso they pull the RV between two long scaffolds, say 40' long, and can work on the roof without bending over or needing to climb ladders.

If your roof is really bad, I would say replace it. It would involve removing all the vents, A/C, antenna, ect. It would be time consuming, if you put a new post asking what is involved with EPDM roof replacement at home, some will chime in with advice, and perhaps pictures on what they did.

Good luck,

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

Escapees.com

rideagiant
Explorer
Explorer
So are there any updates to the Grizzly product from those of you that used it? I'm leaning towards putting that on my roof in the next 2 weeks.

rideagiant
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:


I would guess yes. why put a permanent material down on a surface prone to failure?
bumpy



Yeah, that was my thinking, I just didn't see any mention of it in the previous replies in this thread. I wanted to make sure.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
rideagiant wrote:

Would removing the membrane have any advantages/disadvantages to applying the bedliner type coating?

--Jonathan


I would guess yes. why put a permanent material down on a surface prone to failure?
bumpy

rideagiant
Explorer
Explorer
This is a great thread!! I'm currently educating myself on the best way to protect/repair my roof on my 28' 2000 Tioga.

I don't see a clear reference to this so I wanted to ask; does it seem like the best practice is to remove the black membrane altogether and then apply a new coating? Mine is bare and black/chalky in several large spots allover my roof. It looks as though the previous owner didn't do a good enough job on the white coating the last time he covered it.

There is very thin (3/16-1/8") plywood directly under the black membrane. I just planned on ripping the whole membrane off and going the Grizzly coating route (just got off their chat line) right over the plywood. Probably curing the first coat, eterna-bonding the seals, flashing, and seams before applying the second coat.

Would removing the membrane have any advantages/disadvantages to applying the bedliner type coating?

Fred, thank you for being so active and involved in this thread. You don't find too many threads THIS helpful!

--Jonathan

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
quingus wrote:
Hello roof pros, I might have a dumb question, will any of those roof products work on a TPO. I have a 30ft Fleetwood Jamboree 2007. I read the manuals made the call to Fleetwood. So TPO. If those products aren't compatible what would work. That will be my next project when I get back from a two week fishorama in the Pacific Northwest. Thanks in advance for the info.



http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html


Check out their website. Call them on Monday and ask what they have to say about their product going onto TPO roofs. They probably have had someone try it and give feedback to them.!

Good luck,

Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a

Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

Kangen.com Alkaline water

Escapees.com