DW has always disliked the dinettes in our TTs, so the new (to us) one has a free-standing table and chairs. But the table was right up against the wall and awkward for the person(s) next to the wall.
Then we went to the RV show and saw a table that could move out from the wall. A project was born!
The tabletop was screwed to a 12" square of thick plywood which was screwed to the pedestal. I removed the screws holding the tabletop, then the top.
I cut two pieces of oak long enough to span the pedestal square to the inboard table skirt and notched one end of each to fit under the pedestal square, then drilled 4 holes for screws into the underside of the pedestal square.
These pieces were wide enough to leave an inch and a half under the pedestal square.
I cut two more pieces long enough to go between the two table skirts. These were half an inch narrower than the shorter pieces, and drilled for screws into the tabletop.
I purchased aluminum miter track and miter bar extrusions from Peachtree Woodworking (Atlanta, GA), ran a groove in the long oak pieces to accept the track, and fastened the track with screws.
I screwed the bar extrusions to the short oak pieces so that there was a little clearance between the tabletop and the pedestal square and short pieces. Two cross-members keep the short pieces aligned.
The tabletop can now be slid away from the wall up to 12 inches, and a spring-loaded bolt engages one of several holes to keep it in the chosen position.
Then we went to the RV show and saw a table that could move out from the wall. A project was born!
The tabletop was screwed to a 12" square of thick plywood which was screwed to the pedestal. I removed the screws holding the tabletop, then the top.
I cut two pieces of oak long enough to span the pedestal square to the inboard table skirt and notched one end of each to fit under the pedestal square, then drilled 4 holes for screws into the underside of the pedestal square.
These pieces were wide enough to leave an inch and a half under the pedestal square.
I cut two more pieces long enough to go between the two table skirts. These were half an inch narrower than the shorter pieces, and drilled for screws into the tabletop.
I purchased aluminum miter track and miter bar extrusions from Peachtree Woodworking (Atlanta, GA), ran a groove in the long oak pieces to accept the track, and fastened the track with screws.
I screwed the bar extrusions to the short oak pieces so that there was a little clearance between the tabletop and the pedestal square and short pieces. Two cross-members keep the short pieces aligned.
The tabletop can now be slid away from the wall up to 12 inches, and a spring-loaded bolt engages one of several holes to keep it in the chosen position.
