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Solar charge controller selection help needed

skripo
Explorer
Explorer
I am looking to put in a solar system that will produce about 30 amps per day. I choose a semi-flexible 135 watt panel made by Sunpower which meets my capacity needs.

My only problem is choosing the charge controller. My original choice was a 20 AMP Suntracer MPPT (yes it is a REAL MPPT) with the remote panel.

My only issue is that I want to use the see consumption and use the low voltage battery disconnect, unfortunately my converter is 55 AMPs. If I want a 55 AMP or more charge controller the cost goes up obscenely.

Realistically, what is the maximum draw I can see from 12V lights, heater fan, and other 12V loads. I know it is hard to estimate but what is typical?

Also, does the converter ever supply 55 amps for battery charging?

Thank you.
2015 Fun Finder 242 BDS
65 REPLIES 65

scrubjaysnest
Explorer
Explorer
skripo wrote:
I ordered 50 feet of 10 AWG 1000V cable, crimpers, MC4 wrenches, and 5 MC4 connectors.

Is there any reason NOT to solder the MC4 pins to wire? I am a soldering maniac and always want the best connection.

Can I use the same cable to go from charge controller to battery? Run is about 3 feet.

Thanks.

Solder the connection after crimping then insert into the mc-4 shell; the water tight screw on portion will act as a strain relief also. Mine have been fine for the last 3 years on the portable portion I have.

From the CC to the battery use wire for the full CC output, I currently have 8 AWG but plan on changing that to some 4 AWG I have.
Axis 24.1 class A 500watts solar TS-45CC Trimetric
Very noisy generator :M
2016 Wrangler JK dinghy
โ€œThey who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.โ€ Benjamin Franklin

westend
Explorer
Explorer
skripo wrote:
I ordered 50 feet of 10 AWG 1000V cable, crimpers, MC4 wrenches, and 5 MC4 connectors.

Is there any reason NOT to solder the MC4 pins to wire? I am a soldering maniac and always want the best connection.

Can I use the same cable to go from charge controller to battery? Run is about 3 feet.

Thanks.

Reason not to solder: connection system is not engineered for solder or excessive heat. You may melt a connector or set up a failure point for the future. Use crimper, save iron for other duty.

I would use the largest possible cable (that fits controller) for the charge controller to battery connection. My reasons are above.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
skipro #10 locks you into a series installation.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

skripo
Explorer
Explorer
I ordered 50 feet of 10 AWG 1000V cable, crimpers, MC4 wrenches, and 5 MC4 connectors.

Is there any reason NOT to solder the MC4 pins to wire? I am a soldering maniac and always want the best connection.

Can I use the same cable to go from charge controller to battery? Run is about 3 feet.

Thanks.
2015 Fun Finder 242 BDS

ewarnerusa
Nomad
Nomad
I agree with westend about wiring. Do the wiring once, build around maximum potential capacity of the equipment, and have confidence knowing that the wiring isn't ever going to be a bottleneck.

I used Darvex.com for my wiring, connections, and breakers. It's car audio focused, but that shouldn't matter.
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/home.asp
Aspen Trail 2710BH | 470 watts of solar | 2x 6V GC batteries | 100% LED lighting | 1500W PSW inverter | MicroAir on air con | Yamaha 2400 gen

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Here's my take on voltage drop with wire gauges: The cost of wire between 12 AWG and 4 AWG is is about $.50/ft.-> $.75/ft., depending on where you source wire. I paid some fairly good money for my solar system and spent a lot of time on it, both in front of a screen, researching, and in the shop fabricating pieces of it.

My trailer is 22' long so the greatest amount of wire run could be 50' (both phases) to connect modules with controller. I asked myself, " will I try to cut costs and live with any voltage drop for the maximum of $25 saved?", when selecting wire sizes. Answer to self was, "NO, I don't want to lose a single watt of power harvested, if possible". Granted, all wire has resistance and there will inevitably loss of power but I chose not to go with the accepted 3% or 5% of loss due to the cost of wire.

As the wiring schemes of my install developed and I started searching for sources of wire, I ended up with a 150' reel of 4 ga. and that's what I used throughout. I'm not advocating that you use the same, my point is that there is little sense to use wire that impacts the efficiency of your system beyond 1%.

Southwire voltage drop calculator

Waytek wire is where I sourced wire and connectors. They are local to me and establishing a contractor level account is necessary.

Genuine dealz is a distributor used by many on the Forum, they will make custom cable/connectors and offer a variety of different wire products.

Good luck with your wiring!
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
I run two 12V panels in series for a 12V bank. The Vmp of a panel is 18.3V. I measure 36V+ at the controller terminals. I believe my wire size should be calculated using 36V. I am using the existing 25rt feet of 12Ga wiring.

I'll guess the Vmp of the subject 24V nominal panel at 33V as that is common. In series we should expect 66V at the controller. Let's say the conversion loss down to 12V is 3% at 33V and 6% at 66V. Now when we figure the total of wiring and controller losses, we do worse at 66V for the same size wiring.

I did ask for those specs.

HTH;
John

skripo
Explorer
Explorer
30' from panel to controller. Controller is 2' from battery.
2015 Fun Finder 242 BDS

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Two in series I would have #12 MC4 cable, or kill it with #10.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
If he plans for parallel and goes series he has his bases covered. A "guess" would be 24 volt panels @ 270 watts =~ 11.25 amps. #8 wire would result in less than 2% voltage drop. If he goes series he would be under 1%.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
skripo wrote:


I ended up getting 2 modules for a total of 270 watts. I was told to connect them in series for better efficiency so it will be about 60 volts.

I will certainly let you know how well it works if you tell me what to look for.


Did 'they' tell you the efficiency of the controller at the different Voltages of your panels depending on parallel or serial?

What is the Vmp of the panels. You cannot figure wire size until you know if you are going to choose parallel or series for your solar array.

When you state wire length, please tell us if it is one way or round trip.

HTH;
John

skripo
Explorer
Explorer
What gauge wire do you recommend for two 24v 135 watt panels hooked in series with 30' run?
2015 Fun Finder 242 BDS

skripo
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
The MS Sunsaver MPPT-15 would work with the two modules but it will clip output to 15 amps. I use the same controller with a 235W 24V nominal panel on a 12 V system.
The 200W PV rating is nominal in that the controller will handle additional current and the voltage input limit is 70V. It won't output anymore than 15 amps.
Edit: Looked up the output of the modules you've bought. Max current of 5.45A and SCV of 24V. You will be hard pressed to get those modules to deliver more than 15A of output to a battery. You do mention that you may buy another module so the bigger Tracer is going to be the better controller for your plans.
Let us know how the controller works for you, there aren't many MPPT controllers in this range at that price point.


I ended up getting 2 modules for a total of 270 watts. I was told to connect them in series for better efficiency so it will be about 60 volts.

I will certainly let you know how well it works if you tell me what to look for.
2015 Fun Finder 242 BDS

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
skripo wrote:
I went ahead and picked up the new model of the EP Solar Tracer 4215BN with remote panel this afternoon.
Sorry missed this part. The Tracer controller is fine.

SunSaver can be over driven a bit as it will limit amps and protect itself.
I also like the program that will adjust absorption time based on in use vs storage.

Please post max amps you get from the Tracer.