I needed more solar, but roof space that was free of late day shadows ran out.
I also needed an awning over the door to keep water away. The wall slants, so is more susceptible.
The key for me was finding the right metal bracket. Aluminum was necessary to be outside. And the ability to bend it so the door would open, and to match the exact angles the slanted wall (door frame) and the solar panel had.
I tried a square tube, but then it became difficult to attach to both.
This is T-shape extruded aluminum. Probably expensive.
Tape the bracket on and let alone overnight; the tape chemically bonds and reaches max strength after 72 hours, but overnight is enough to resume working.
I got rid of the rain flap above the door.
I made cuts in one leg of the T so i could bend it. Later I may use VHB tape to splice in a piece of aluminum to span the gap, but it may not be needed.
Makes an awning.
Not such that I stand with the door open in the rain, but it keeps the waterfall off of the door, and allows me to enter without wetting the inside so much.
I did allow for the water to get past the vent and the sewer vent on the sides, so water will not dam up. The angle iron does not run the full width for this reason.
I used VHB tape to hold the bracket to the door frame, and just a self-tapping screw to attach to the panel.
On the roof I used aluminum angle iron. Taped to the roof (4 3 inch strips) and screwed to the panel in 4 places. I have extra holes in the bracket and angle iron incase I want to add screws or a bolt.
VHB tape is an incredibly strong attachment method, and no holes in the camper either. I have never removed VHB, but I think a heat gun will break the bonds easy enough.
Aerodynamically, this might not be bad. Big rigs use flaps that hang over on top and the sides to decrease drag. Though this does not go all the way around I think it might decrease drag a hair, at best I hope it does not add any
I also needed an awning over the door to keep water away. The wall slants, so is more susceptible.
The key for me was finding the right metal bracket. Aluminum was necessary to be outside. And the ability to bend it so the door would open, and to match the exact angles the slanted wall (door frame) and the solar panel had.
I tried a square tube, but then it became difficult to attach to both.
This is T-shape extruded aluminum. Probably expensive.
Tape the bracket on and let alone overnight; the tape chemically bonds and reaches max strength after 72 hours, but overnight is enough to resume working.
I got rid of the rain flap above the door.
I made cuts in one leg of the T so i could bend it. Later I may use VHB tape to splice in a piece of aluminum to span the gap, but it may not be needed.
Makes an awning.
Not such that I stand with the door open in the rain, but it keeps the waterfall off of the door, and allows me to enter without wetting the inside so much.
I did allow for the water to get past the vent and the sewer vent on the sides, so water will not dam up. The angle iron does not run the full width for this reason.
I used VHB tape to hold the bracket to the door frame, and just a self-tapping screw to attach to the panel.
On the roof I used aluminum angle iron. Taped to the roof (4 3 inch strips) and screwed to the panel in 4 places. I have extra holes in the bracket and angle iron incase I want to add screws or a bolt.
VHB tape is an incredibly strong attachment method, and no holes in the camper either. I have never removed VHB, but I think a heat gun will break the bonds easy enough.
Aerodynamically, this might not be bad. Big rigs use flaps that hang over on top and the sides to decrease drag. Though this does not go all the way around I think it might decrease drag a hair, at best I hope it does not add any
