The Ultimate DIY thread - Ubuilding (Pics)
Hey all, There is another, albeit smaller, side to this whole RV thing - those crazy folks who build their own for whatever reason. Whether you've scratch-built it from the ground up, assembled a kit...
Forum Discussion
Thanks Greasie !
I did a check check and it led me to one of these:
It seems to be a new production of an old design. It needs a 2"+ wall thickness, but I can build that up on the inside if need be or probably cut down the flange. This one's 110V AC but I ought to be able to change either the motor or the fan assembly to 12V easily enough. The important thing is that the whole thing is a wall mount - I could probably use just about anything as a hood because it doesn't need a fan. Hmmm...time to get creative - I have an old gold pan downstairs I don't use much anymore :)
You've definitely given me some food for thought if the passive flapper idea doesn't work. One could put a pin switch on the door in series with the fan switch so both switches need to close for the fan to run, but it would still leave the switch on the face for convenience while cooking.
Still, it would be cool to rebuild and use a vintage piece if I can...at least now I have a direction to look in.
In other news, I just got back from the wrecker's. I went in search of four scissor jacks to use as stabilizers. They had them, but not with all four having the same size hex head so I left my name and they'll give me a shout when they put a set together. In the meantime, I need to beef up the floor where I'll be mounting them. Because the underside of my floor is ply with the steel framing dividing it into a grid, I figure I'll fit a piece of 3/4" ply into the 'grid square' where each jack will mount. That ought to transfer the loading to the floor without point loading.
I also looked for 4-on-100mm and found that, while that's a really common size for imports, the hub center is 55mm instead of the 65mm I need. That would also give me a 13"X5" road wheels that would be easier to get tires for than the 13" trailer wheels I was planning on.
I did a check check and it led me to one of these:
It seems to be a new production of an old design. It needs a 2"+ wall thickness, but I can build that up on the inside if need be or probably cut down the flange. This one's 110V AC but I ought to be able to change either the motor or the fan assembly to 12V easily enough. The important thing is that the whole thing is a wall mount - I could probably use just about anything as a hood because it doesn't need a fan. Hmmm...time to get creative - I have an old gold pan downstairs I don't use much anymore :)
You've definitely given me some food for thought if the passive flapper idea doesn't work. One could put a pin switch on the door in series with the fan switch so both switches need to close for the fan to run, but it would still leave the switch on the face for convenience while cooking.
Still, it would be cool to rebuild and use a vintage piece if I can...at least now I have a direction to look in.
In other news, I just got back from the wrecker's. I went in search of four scissor jacks to use as stabilizers. They had them, but not with all four having the same size hex head so I left my name and they'll give me a shout when they put a set together. In the meantime, I need to beef up the floor where I'll be mounting them. Because the underside of my floor is ply with the steel framing dividing it into a grid, I figure I'll fit a piece of 3/4" ply into the 'grid square' where each jack will mount. That ought to transfer the loading to the floor without point loading.
I also looked for 4-on-100mm and found that, while that's a really common size for imports, the hub center is 55mm instead of the 65mm I need. That would also give me a 13"X5" road wheels that would be easier to get tires for than the 13" trailer wheels I was planning on.
