50 amp Cord

The first thing I would do is to examine if you really need a 50 amp service/cord.

In my case, My rig came with a 50 amp service and elephant cord.

After years of lugging that beast around, I realized that the only reason my rig has a 50 amp service is for the washer/dryer that I never installed. (I only have one AC unit) In fact, that breaker is always turned off.

I got a 30 amp Marinco plug and a 30 amp cord, and life is better. Never had a problem.

I don't know what your electrical requirements are, but I thought I would share this. I also have a much easier time storing the 30 amp cord in my RubberMaid electrical bin.

dapperdan wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

avvidclif1 wrote:
It's partially the jacket but mostly the wire itself. A single strand of #6 wire is hard to bend. A multiple strand wire is easier to bend. The more strands there are in that make up the 6ga conductor the more flexible it is.

For example 6ga superflex welding cable has 266 strands. A listing on Ebay showed a 6/4 cable with each wire having 133 strands. It would be stiffer than the welding cable.


Understanding SO Cord Designations

What do all SO Cord letter designations stand for? See the table below for a simple breakdown.

Designation What this means
S Service grade. Extra hard service when not followed by J, P, or V.
J Hard service
V Vacuum cleaner cord and light duty cable.
P Parallel cord (also known as zip cord). Light duty only.
E Thermoplastic Elastomer (UL/NEC designation only)
O Oil resistant*
T Thermoplastic
W Outdoor. Sunlight-resistant jacket, wet location rated conductors. Formerly "W-A".
H Heater cable
VW-1 Flame retardant
FT2 Flame retardant

* When one "O" is in a designation (for example, "SJOW"), only the outer jacket material is oil resistant. If there are two "O's" are in the classification (such as "SOOW"), both the outer jacket and conductor insulation are oil resistant.

Thanks!

Good info.

Ron,

I just looked up my old invoice for the cable I bought. It was 6-4/C SOOW
(Black) from Wire and Cable To Go. It's super flexible and I paid about $110 for 35 feet of it. I bought the ends off of Amazon but I can't remember what those cost.

Hope this helps ya a bit.

Dan

GEEZE now I have to start a new career. "The flexible power cord man"

Cummins12V98 wrote:

avvidclif1 wrote:
It's partially the jacket but mostly the wire itself. A single strand of #6 wire is hard to bend. A multiple strand wire is easier to bend. The more strands there are in that make up the 6ga conductor the more flexible it is.

For example 6ga superflex welding cable has 266 strands. A listing on Ebay showed a 6/4 cable with each wire having 133 strands. It would be stiffer than the welding cable.


Understanding SO Cord Designations

What do all SO Cord letter designations stand for? See the table below for a simple breakdown.

Designation What this means
S Service grade. Extra hard service when not followed by J, P, or V.
J Hard service
V Vacuum cleaner cord and light duty cable.
P Parallel cord (also known as zip cord). Light duty only.
E Thermoplastic Elastomer (UL/NEC designation only)
O Oil resistant*
T Thermoplastic
W Outdoor. Sunlight-resistant jacket, wet location rated conductors. Formerly "W-A".
H Heater cable
VW-1 Flame retardant
FT2 Flame retardant

* When one "O" is in a designation (for example, "SJOW"), only the outer jacket material is oil resistant. If there are two "O's" are in the classification (such as "SOOW"), both the outer jacket and conductor insulation are oil resistant.

Thanks!

Good info.

Ron,

I just looked up my old invoice for the cable I bought. It was 6-4/C SOOW
(Black) from Wire and Cable To Go. It's super flexible and I paid about $110 for 35 feet of it. I bought the ends off of Amazon but I can't remember what those cost.

Hope this helps ya a bit.

Dan

avvidclif1 wrote:
It's partially the jacket but mostly the wire itself. A single strand of #6 wire is hard to bend. A multiple strand wire is easier to bend. The more strands there are in that make up the 6ga conductor the more flexible it is.

For example 6ga superflex welding cable has 266 strands. A listing on Ebay showed a 6/4 cable with each wire having 133 strands. It would be stiffer than the welding cable.


Understanding SO Cord Designations

What do all SO Cord letter designations stand for? See the table below for a simple breakdown.

Designation What this means
S Service grade. Extra hard service when not followed by J, P, or V.
J Hard service
V Vacuum cleaner cord and light duty cable.
P Parallel cord (also known as zip cord). Light duty only.
E Thermoplastic Elastomer (UL/NEC designation only)
O Oil resistant*
T Thermoplastic
W Outdoor. Sunlight-resistant jacket, wet location rated conductors. Formerly "W-A".
H Heater cable
VW-1 Flame retardant
FT2 Flame retardant

* When one "O" is in a designation (for example, "SJOW"), only the outer jacket material is oil resistant. If there are two "O's" are in the classification (such as "SOOW"), both the outer jacket and conductor insulation are oil resistant.

Thanks!

Good info.

It's partially the jacket but mostly the wire itself. A single strand of #6 wire is hard to bend. A multiple strand wire is easier to bend. The more strands there are in that make up the 6ga conductor the more flexible it is.

For example 6ga superflex welding cable has 266 strands. A listing on Ebay showed a 6/4 cable with each wire having 133 strands. It would be stiffer than the welding cable.


Understanding SO Cord Designations

What do all SO Cord letter designations stand for? See the table below for a simple breakdown.

Designation What this means
S Service grade. Extra hard service when not followed by J, P, or V.
J Hard service
V Vacuum cleaner cord and light duty cable.
P Parallel cord (also known as zip cord). Light duty only.
E Thermoplastic Elastomer (UL/NEC designation only)
O Oil resistant*
T Thermoplastic
W Outdoor. Sunlight-resistant jacket, wet location rated conductors. Formerly "W-A".
H Heater cable
VW-1 Flame retardant
FT2 Flame retardant

* When one "O" is in a designation (for example, "SJOW"), only the outer jacket material is oil resistant. If there are two "O's" are in the classification (such as "SOOW"), both the outer jacket and conductor insulation are oil resistant.

RedRam wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RedRam wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RedRam wrote:
* Update*
I found another site that has the same wiring and it states 6/3-8/1 so i'm thinking this is correct.Maybe whoever wrote the other specs must have put in a 1 without thinking.

That is correct!

Seriously it's a easy DIY job. The biggest problem is finding the cable for a decent price.

I found a new 36' 50 Amp RV Extension Cord that has a right angle 50 amp-125/250V plug and connector with handle.The cord plus shipping is $126.57. Then cut the end off and buy a ParkPower 50 Amp Female Connector, $76.19 and put it on the 50A power cord so it will hook up to my RV and I have myself a pliable 50A power cord. Does that sound like a fair price ?.

Sorry I am not 100% understanding what you are saying. My question is how you know the cord is "pliable" ?

It has a -40° cold weather jacket but maybe it's still the older and hard to coil when cold just like what I have now. But with the -40 cold weather jacket I was hoping it was the limber cord.

I would be sure before buying!

I am no expert but I think the "SO" or "SOOW" designation has something to do with it being flexible.

If your current power cord has a twist lock on one end that ties to your RV it should be able to be removed and re installed on another cord.

I have a flat open top storage tote i keep my cords in. Coil up the large 50 amp cord, coil up a small extension cord inside it and also have a 50 amp female with 30 amp male I bought on sale a bit less than $100. It happened to be at Camping World. Furion makes it. I use it most of the time if the full 50 amp is not needed. sure beats hauling that monster out. also in the open tote along the edges are my adapters. Well that's my story, I'm sticking to it. Good Luck & Be Safe ! ! !

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RedRam wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RedRam wrote:
* Update*
I found another site that has the same wiring and it states 6/3-8/1 so i'm thinking this is correct.Maybe whoever wrote the other specs must have put in a 1 without thinking.

That is correct!

Seriously it's a easy DIY job. The biggest problem is finding the cable for a decent price.

I found a new 36' 50 Amp RV Extension Cord that has a right angle 50 amp-125/250V plug and connector with handle.The cord plus shipping is $126.57. Then cut the end off and buy a ParkPower 50 Amp Female Connector, $76.19 and put it on the 50A power cord so it will hook up to my RV and I have myself a pliable 50A power cord. Does that sound like a fair price ?.

Sorry I am not 100% understanding what you are saying. My question is how you know the cord is "pliable" ?

It has a -40° cold weather jacket but maybe it's still the older and hard to coil when cold just like what I have now. But with the -40 cold weather jacket I was hoping it was the limber cord.

RedRam wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

RedRam wrote:
* Update*
I found another site that has the same wiring and it states 6/3-8/1 so i'm thinking this is correct.Maybe whoever wrote the other specs must have put in a 1 without thinking.

That is correct!

Seriously it's a easy DIY job. The biggest problem is finding the cable for a decent price.

I found a new 36' 50 Amp RV Extension Cord that has a right angle 50 amp-125/250V plug and connector with handle.The cord plus shipping is $126.57. Then cut the end off and buy a ParkPower 50 Amp Female Connector, $76.19 and put it on the 50A power cord so it will hook up to my RV and I have myself a pliable 50A power cord. Does that sound like a fair price ?.

Sorry I am not 100% understanding what you are saying. My question is how you know the cord is "pliable" ?

john&bet wrote:
In the bed of my truck.

In the back of the truck and put a cable lock around it if im boondocking