5th wheel options for TV

You can't just IGNORE the dry weight. Sometimes several different models are built on the same frame and axles. Depending on the options and floor plans, the capacity of the tt or fw can be greatly affected. I would look at all the specs. Just because you have 3000lbs rating over the dry weight, is everyone going to put the same load in. The thing that gets me when I see a big sign that says half ton towable and the dry weight is already close to half ton standards and the salesman is not going to mention that.

tegu69 wrote:

NC Hauler wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
Stuck on a 5'er? More options with TT's. Bunks?

Agree, though there are light 5er's out there one can use, I just don't understand why some want to go by a "dry" or "empty" weight when there is no way that is going to happen. People are going to take dishes, pot's, pans, table wear, clothes, towels, soap, proably a couple of outdoor chairs, maybe an extra TV, possibly a computer....maybe a radio, shoes...I mean really, it's amazing how much extra weight people put in their RV's and don't really know it until they've weighed the unit....but again, it's just a number and everyone else does it, so it must be ok...:)

They go by dry weight because they don't sell them loaded. It's up to the buyer to figure out how much weight he is going to load. If the dry weight is close to your capacity of your truck, its not going to work. btw, they have bunks in fifth wheels.

They go by dry weight most of the time so that some might believe that is as heavy as the 5er will get....been there, done that, heard it for fact.....

THUS, the reason, one would best ignore that weight...No propane gas, no nothing....It's best to figure odds are MUCH better that they will load "closer" to the units GVW than it's "empty" or "dry" weight".

If the dry weight is closer to the limit of one's truck then they are REALLY pushing the limits by looking at something to tow that is completely empty

...and most know that some 5er's do come with bunks in them:h

Even more so, many (notice I said many, not most) times the Dry weights are for an RV with just about nothing in or on it. Once you start adding ACs, awning, slide toppers, battery, bigger bed, etc all the bells and whistles folks add the actual weight turns out to be a few hundred to over a thousand pounds above that "Dry" weight. Now add in all your travel necessities and you're close to the Gross before you even know it or even possibly over.

As NC Hauler suggested, the best thing to do is spend $10 and get weighed. You can then use a calculator such as this for finding what is left over and getting a feel for how much fifth wheel or TT you can tow:
http://www.towingplanner.com/Calculators/TowingScaledWeights

Without weighing, you can estimate your weights and work backwards from you "tire and loading information sticker" on your doorjamb by using this calculator:
http://www.towingplanner.com/Calculators/TowingPayloadEstimate

For estimating PIN weights to stay within your ratings, you can usually use the percentage of pin weight for the dry weights and then apply that either to an estimate for your actual loaded weight or to the camper's GVWR. And, of course- I've got a handy estimator for that too. :):
http://www.towingplanner.com/Estimators/TonguePinWeightFromDry

Once you know some weights, you can narrow in on campers that fall in those ranges.

NC Hauler wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
Stuck on a 5'er? More options with TT's. Bunks?

Agree, though there are light 5er's out there one can use, I just don't understand why some want to go by a "dry" or "empty" weight when there is no way that is going to happen. People are going to take dishes, pot's, pans, table wear, clothes, towels, soap, proably a couple of outdoor chairs, maybe an extra TV, possibly a computer....maybe a radio, shoes...I mean really, it's amazing how much extra weight people put in their RV's and don't really know it until they've weighed the unit....but again, it's just a number and everyone else does it, so it must be ok...:)

They go by dry weight because they don't sell them loaded. It's up to the buyer to figure out how much weight he is going to load. If the dry weight is close to your capacity of your truck, its not going to work. btw, they have bunks in fifth wheels.

1st find the trailer you want and see what the pin weight and 5er weight is.
2nd look at the truck towing specs that come from the manufacturer for an adequate TV.

Dont start backwards with the truck.

goducks10 wrote:
Stuck on a 5'er? More options with TT's. Bunks?

Agree, though there are light 5er's out there one can use, I just don't understand why some want to go by a "dry" or "empty" weight when there is no way that is going to happen. People are going to take dishes, pot's, pans, table wear, clothes, towels, soap, proably a couple of outdoor chairs, maybe an extra TV, possibly a computer....maybe a radio, shoes...I mean really, it's amazing how much extra weight people put in their RV's and don't really know it until they've weighed the unit....but again, it's just a number and everyone else does it, so it must be ok...:)

zackyboy3rs wrote:
Chevy Silverado 2500HD, 6.0L. 9900 lb tow max, 2700 lb capacity. Don't know about hitch. I am guessing max dry should be no more than 8000 lbs & GVWR 10,000 lbs. truck weighs about 6000 lbs I think.

Jayco Eagle HT line? Any others? Thanks.

Do yourself a very big favor...Find a cat scale, invest $10 and find out what your truck weighs. Do yourself another favor and throw out the almost totally useless "empty" or "dry" weight that some of these 5er manufacturers toss out there....Use the 5er's GVW and go from there. I think someone stated it might have a GVW of 10,000#..if so, you could be laying up to a ton of pin weight into the bed of your 2500...If not mistaken, though a useless number to most, I believe the 2500 has a GVW of 9200#.....Find out what your truck weighs, add an extra 200# for a 5er hitch, and load truck with full tank of fuel and all family members and anything else you plan on loading into your truck before you hook the 5er up to it...After you get that weight, add approx. 2,000# more for pin weight...if you go over your trucks weight, most in here will tell you GVWR is a joke anyway and not to worry about it, just make sure you have good "E" rated tires and start digging into your trucks RAWR and you can tow 5er's you probably never dreamed you could tow. Even if it's a gasser and not a diesel. I'm one of the dreaded, terrible "Weight Police" on here and would recommend that you try to stay within your trucks GVWR, but exceeding it and digging into your trucks RAWR isn't going to hurt anything either. Just know when to stop.

You're not in the mountains, if in Eastern NC, so no issues, if you head into the mountains of Western NC, I'd watch my weight on what 5er you purchase...if you head up Saluda Grade on I26 heading toward Asheville, depending on the weight of the 5er, it might not be a very pleasant towing experience. I'm speaking from experience, not something I read or made up....Big difference in towing some of these weights with a 6.0 gasser with an older 2500 and towing them with a diesel...just make sure you match the 5er up with the truck, believe me, in the long run, you'll have a much happier towing experience if you try to do this. Good luck.

Stuck on a 5'er? More options with TT's. Bunks?

I have the same truck, except GMC. I was wanting something around 7,000lbs and looked hard at a Cougar, but wife and I couldn't agree on a floor plan. We both loved the Everlite (31) suppose to be 8,080lbs dry. I weighed everything after it was loaded and I'm exactly at 16,000lbs (max rating). There's a lot of light fw out there. I would say yes, keep it under 8,000lbs.