advice pleeeeeease needed asap

The converter on my boat was hit by lightning indirectly ie; adjacent boat was hit directly and juice entered the water and then into my boat through the bonding system wires. Converter had 2 diodes blow out. This happened on 2 separate occasions. lesson; don't park next to a sail boat in a storm. Sorry- I couldn't resist just to lighten things up.

smkettner wrote:

melissajean0 wrote:
It turns out the battery was just completely drained because of a light that was left on in the closet. It charged back overnight and everything's a-ok now.

Seems odd that a single closet lamp would drain the battery while driving.
Time to verify the truck is actually supplying 12 volt power to the trailer while in transit.

X2. Might also be a bad battery.

melissajean0 wrote:
It turns out the battery was just completely drained because of a light that was left on in the closet. It charged back overnight and everything's a-ok now.

Seems odd that a single closet lamp would drain the battery while driving.
Time to verify the truck is actually supplying 12 volt power to the trailer while in transit.

Oops! Sorry-I didn't see the OP's recent response. Glad everything worked out for you.

Veebyes wrote:

2008Wildcat wrote:

J R in Missouri wrote:
NOT so, most RV will have both DC and AC lighting. My first two had Gas lights, 12 volt DC 110 AC.

Not so!

Most are 100% 12 volt now. Only light that would be 110 would be on a 110 ceiling fan.

And the light under a microwave.

Whatever, there seems to be a lack of understanding of what does what & the difference between the DC systems & AC systems.

Whatever the mix on lights (mine are all 12 volt) don't forget that many refrigerators and furnaces also need 12 volts. My refrigerator control board uses 12 volt even when running on shore power or propane, and my furnace control board also uses 12 volts. So if your 12 volt lights are getting dim you may start having problems with heat and the refrigerator.

B.Sjulestad wrote:

othertonka wrote:
The lights always run from the battery. When plugged into shore power, the 110 V AC goes to all the outlets and also powers up the Converter, the converter charges the batteries, the lights run from the battery. Seems like you are OK. To check if the converter is working, use a multi meter and check the voltage at the battery, if it is working, the volt reading should be about 13.6 volts when plugged in. unplugged the battery voltage should be about 12.7 for a fully charged battery.

X2

-X the 12 volt lights will run from the converter, without a battery, if plugged into the grid.

Us out West wrote:
advice pleeeeeease needed asap

Must have been not to serious..no replies from OP.

After driving for 8 hours with 3 hours of sleep beforehand the only thing I could do was wait for morning and crash. I just got really sleepy.

It turns out the battery was just completely drained because of a light that was left on in the closet. It charged back overnight and everything's a-ok now. Thank's everyone for your responses. I'm just glad I'm not having to replace the box. Phew.

2008Wildcat wrote:

J R in Missouri wrote:
NOT so, most RV will have both DC and AC lighting. My first two had Gas lights, 12 volt DC 110 AC.

Not so!


Most are 100% 12 volt now. Only light that would be 110 would be on a 110 ceiling fan.

And the light under a microwave.

Whatever, there seems to be a lack of understanding of what does what & the difference between the DC systems & AC systems.

advice pleeeeeease needed asap

Must have been not to serious..no replies from OP.

When plugged into shore power, my 12-volt lights run through the converter, not the batteries. My batteries can be disconnected and the 12-volt lights work just fine with the converter. And I also have 1 - 110v light over the dinette.