Bedframe coming apart

Not sure if this is true of all bed slides or not. Seems every unit is a little different. But, on my 2008 Keystone TT I had a similar issue. The bed frame was built really flimsy with 1X2's and 3/8 OSB board. I got rid of the OSB board and beefed up the entire framework and tied the "headboard" end into the slide out wall a lot better. I used 3/4" plywood to sheath the newly beefed up bed frame. I changed the geometry of the strut mounting points so it could handle the extra weight of the new plywood and also the full size residential queen mattress. I have to have the mattress raised when the slide is in so it don't hit the cabinets on the opposing side. Works fantastic.
I also noticed on mine if I sat on the end of the bed to put shoes on ETC the bed/slide would move as the bed is basically cantilevered on the slide. I cut a board tapered to fit snug between the foot of the bed frame and carpeted floor. No more issues. It did add a lot of weight, especially the mattress!, but it sure is more like home.

Update on bed frame and continuing leak in bedroom slide. We found leaks after a heavy rain storm in the bedroom slide after the bed frame found to be loose. Took to dealer after discovering the floor was rotten around the edges of the bedroom slide. These leaks have been worked on by this dealer and a mobile repair person before. Dealer said should file an insurance claim as some companies have paid for similar problems. After about a month, claim denied. Dealer replaced the floor. I asked them to anchor the head of the bed frame to the wall studs, attach raised part of bed frame to slide floor and rebuild the bed frame. They took the slide out and found two wall studs in the wall where you would anchor the frame were not there. It came from the factory that way. These missing studs and the way the floor was installed caused excessive slide flex according to the dealer. This is probably some of the reasons we have had continuing problems with leaks and a loose bed frame. We will see after the next rain when the slides are out to see if we have more problems. Some of the carpet had to be replaced. Original cost was $4,200 and dealer deducted $1,100 from the bill. Dealer included tire rotation, and some other cosmetic repairs in the bill of $3,100.

Well, had the frame stripped down by removing the large plywood sheets the mattress goes on. Also removed the bottom of the so called storage compartment so could observe the action of the frame as slide moved in and out. Before moving the slide, placed some small L brackets to the corners of the wood frame that were loose in places. I wanted to observe the movement of the frame before attaching the bed frame head area to the slide floor. Good thing I did that as the top of the slide "flopped" in just before the end of the closing cycle. The entire slide including the floor, sides and roof moved as one. It probably moved in at the top at least a foot. As the slide moved out the top tilted back toward the outside but appeared to seal properly. Concerned about what would happen to the bottom of the bed frame toward the head of the bed if it was attached to the slide floor. This flopping causes the frame and the back slide wall to be stressed and there is flex between them. The bed frame flexes as the back slide wall moves as the top of the slide flops. I can't find any loose bolts at the back of the slide where the hydraulics are attached to the slide floor. The slide seems to teetering toward the outside until the slide's weight causes it to tilt to the inside and the reverse on the way out. Also, think there has to be some rollers under the slide floor but not sure what kind. Not that the rollers are a problem. I appear to have a more serious problem and one that is beyond my abilities or patience. I had the dealer fix this flopping months ago not realizing what stress this was causing with the bedframe. The dealer tech said he knew what was wrong and took his tools and said it was fixed in about 15 minutes. Anyone have any input as to what the problem is?

The bed sits on the floor, which is the floor of the slide, which means not much pulling on the bed from the wall. The angle iron on the floor will be sufficient, IMHO.

Tim

edbehnke wrote:
not really very diffcult, I used lots of 'L' brackets and reattached the bed to wall and the sides.

also, take a look at how much weight you have in the bottom of your bed, i believe that casuses some of the issues.

X2

I had to repair my bedroom slide because it wasn't supported at the "foot" end of the bed and it caused the bed to come loose at the moving wall end...I disassembled everything, reattached the bed to the wall using 2x2 material and longer screws, then I put rollers under the frame so they rolled on the carpet and supported the bed when it was extended.

We didn't keep any heavy stuff under the bed. From now on, we are not placing anything under there. We did add a 3" foam mattress on the original mattress. I wonder how much force is exerted on the back slide wall when the slide is operated. I am going to reinforce with "L" brackets and attach to slide floor and frame of bed. Just wondering what the back slide wall consists of that can be reinforced with more screws and a larger wood piece across the head of the bed frame. I don't think "rocking" did it! More like 25,000 miles of highways it has been over. Any more suggestion appreciated. Thanks,

Too much camper rockin' :-)

not really very diffcult, I used lots of 'L' brackets and reattached the bed to wall and the sides.

also, take a look at how much weight you have in the bottom of your bed, i believe that casuses some of the issues.

Can't answer your question but had the same problem with my DRV. I used angle iron screwed to the floor and the bed frame to fix it. One angle about 18" long on each side. I didn't try screwing to the wall.