Hi,Long stupid story sorry....All has been great with my WW 3705 after the wall sag repair, along with a bunch of other items.I redid the entire brake system (drums, complete backing plates, bearings etc) last year and has been working awesome.So yesterday I am in Parker AZ where I stopped for fuel. As I rounded this turn I tapped the brakes (haven't touched the adjustments for a few trips) and I thought I had hit a curb on how it felt.I continued forward applying the brakes again and it felt normal. Rolled to the stop....bam again. It felt like full voltage was going to the brakes and the tires skid in my side view.I pulled over and checked everything obvious, all systems ok.I changed the aggressiveness adjustments on the brake controller and it seemed to be better.I feel the brake controller is internally shorting or it may be time for new one.I have owned the same one for 12 years and am wondering if it is time for a replacement?Any advice is welcomed.Thank youJoe

I recommend the Prodigy P3. Hard to check the brake function while in motion. Was it all tires locking up? Might be time for a bearing repack and inspection of the internal parts. Could also use a clamp-on DC ammeter to check each wheel is getting about 3 amps from the controller when operated manually. All this looking for differences to pinpoint a trouble area.

Brake wires shorting inside your axle can cause this. The wires chafe over time and short out in the axle tube. It can cause an intermittent problem, due to bouncing wires inside.Jerry

MFL wrote:Brake wires shorting inside your axle can cause this. The wires chafe over time and short out in the axle tube. It can cause an intermittent problem, due to bouncing wires inside.JerryX2had similar problem due to wire rubbing on brake drum. Rubbed thru insulation and caused intermittent max application of brakes.

Thank you very much for the advice.I will tear into it in the near future and report back.

I have not looked at the trailer yet, but am planning on taking the wiring out of the tube regardless......I never had a good feeling about it from day one.I am buying some shielded 2 wire and am leaning toward a 10/2 setup. Anyone know if that is the right gauge or should I go smaller (12/2)?thanksJoe

Brake controller craziness, advice? | Good Sam Community

lincster
Explorer
Mar 23, 2021
I had some work done by a local suspension shop, had to replace an axle, they found the same thing.
Replaced all the wiring with good wires ran on the outside of the tubes.
My brakes have never worked so well.
Y-Guy
Moderator
Mar 23, 2021
Thanks for the update Joe, glad you got it fixed!
joe_blow
Explorer
Mar 23, 2021
Wanted to update you all incase someone finds this post in need of help.

I went through the system with a fine tooth comb and the culprit was inside two tubes. It seems that WW used really nice 10AWG shielded wire up until it splits into the tubes.

From there it seems like they used cheap speaker wire and of course two sections had rubbed through.

The crappy part was I also replaced my brake controller with a smart updated Tekonsha controller, well long story short the brake controller sensed the short and completely disconnected the brakes all together for the ride home. This made my 25 mile trek in stop and go freeway traffic a little sketchy.

I rewired all three axles, wrapped and secured everything including all wiring on the frame rails and it did the trick.

Thanks for all the advice

Joe
Dirtclods
Explorer
Feb 24, 2021
I had a broken wire underneath my Toy-hauler by the brakes themselves so only one side was braking.
dsrace
Explorer
Feb 20, 2021
i have had a prodigy p3 for maybe 5 years now. i do like it and will buy another as this one has had to be unplugged and reconnected twice now. it starts flashing and won't work so they do go bad.
joe_blow
Explorer
Feb 20, 2021
That's what I was thinking also.

thanks
Sjm9911
Explorer
Feb 17, 2021
You just need 2 wire. Run it back where you can and branch off. You could run it stright down the middle and do equal lengths. But i didnt, just went to one side then branched off to the other. The volt drop will Not be noticable. I atually followed what was on my camper to begin with, but my 10 wire was way bigger then what was originally run. I have a dual axel for reference.
joe_blow
Explorer
Feb 17, 2021
Excellent guys thank you for the advice. I was talking to a friend of mine and he experienced similar on his car hauler. Of course the wires were within the axle and rubbed through.

I will report with my findings.

Joe
time2roll
Nomad
Feb 17, 2021
I would assume one wire per wheel if using #10. So 10/2 for two axle, 10/3 for 3 axle.
I don't recommend parallel wires, just use the right size.
Yes needs to be stranded to flex with the suspension.
Sjm9911
Explorer
Feb 17, 2021
I did 10/2 on mone and in retrospec was probably overkill. It was recomended by e trailor , but when i hooked it up it was a bit harder. If i was to do it again i would go with a smaller gauge wire.make sure you get stranded wire. And i also ran it outside the tube. Fixed my low power to my break controller issue. And its not a hard job.

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