Being from SoCal, I'm not well versed in colder weather camping. My AF is a 4 season coach. So what does that actually mean? At what temps do you become concerned about freezing (city water, tank fresh water, holding tanks, indoor pipes)? How does the underbelly get heated (is it ducted from the furnace)? Are there different strategies for dry camping vs hooked up? For example, I like to run a small electric space heater when hooked up to electric. But that won't heat the underbelly (except the heat that might radiate through the floor). I'm just looking for some advice for when temps get into the 20s and below (particularly overnight).

Did you order the AF with the heat pads on the tanks if not you will need to run the furnace to keep the underbelly from freezing. Dry camping will be hard on the batteries if you have no way of charging them during the day. On the AF the underbelly is heated by heat ducts from the furnace. I have done it for years but you need lots of propane and either large batteries or 110 hook ups.

Njmurvin wrote: I like to run a small electric space heater when hooked up to electric. But that won't heat the underbelly (except the heat that might radiate through the floor).I don't advise doing that. When it's much below freezing run the furnace and keep the WH on.

Njmurvin wrote:2011 Arctic Fox 27-5L In normal use I thought AF was good to at least 20 maybe even 10F.Does it have electric tank heaters? Use them.If you are off grid you will need to beef up your battery and still may need to run a small generator near continuous. I suggest an electric connection even if just 15 amps.

We have done a fair amount of winter camping, as long as you run your heater you should be ok, if you are cautious you could place a small heater on the lowest setting, or a high watt lamp in the basement to keep the pipes going, friends of ours use a base mounted work light. It all depends on how long your camping, and what kind of facilities you have (a f/h site, or primitive). Good Luck and happy camping!!

Just an fyi, I've done a bit of cold weather dry camping.. just enough to realize it's not at all fun.

Colder weather camping | Good Sam Community

jtbuilds
Explorer
Oct 02, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
No one should use an unvented combustion heater. It is an unwise choice.

X2

This is what I found....

CO alarms are made to go off at the maximum 24hour exposure level NOT the the long term exposure levels that OSHA set.

A 9000BTU Mr.Buddy heater emits 1 cup of water into the air every hour it runs. With a family of 4 + a dog + a heater we'll have mold everywhere.

Once proper ventilation is provided there is no heat being added.

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/energy-solutions/avoid-unvented-gas-heaters
DiskDoctr
Explorer
Oct 02, 2017
Olympian Wave Catalytic heater manual

See Page 6 for ventilation requirements.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Oct 02, 2017
No one should use an unvented combustion heater. It is an unwise choice.
memtb
Explorer
Oct 01, 2017
Thanks Barney, I'll try to "gitt'r done".
BarneyS
Explorer III
Oct 01, 2017
memtb wrote:
snip...

Will include pictures....when I learn how!

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One of our moderators, 1492, developed this app to post your pictures. It works for other internet sites also. There is no need to have a separate hosting site for your pictures in order to use it.

It is very simple to use.
1. Upload your picture from your computer to the app.
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3. Paste that URL into your post without ANY changes. No additions or deletions.

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Barney
memtb
Explorer
Oct 01, 2017
jtbuilds, Take a look at the Olympian Catalytic (Amazon, pretty reasonable). Several models, ours is relatively thin (front to back), installed by the original owner. He and his wife did extensive winter camping, and were pleased with it. We just got our class c recently, so can't make a truly informative answer. But, will be testing it very soon on a short "shake-down" cruise to the Bighorns. Ours is mounted, on left side of entrance, beneath the folding kitchen counter extension. This area may not work with your floor plan.

Will include pictures....when I learn how!
jtbuilds
Explorer
Oct 01, 2017
memtb wrote:
jtbuilds wrote:
We dry camp every year in the winter. The longest has been 7 nights at temps between 25F and 12F.

Tank heater consume allot of battery power. We don't use them

The best tool to have is a muti channel thermometer. We have an older AcuRite that charts the temps over 2-3 days. We place the thermometers by the batteries, pass though, dump valves, outside and an outside wall where the waterline run.

We'll stuff the wet bay full of Roxul insulation. The windows are filled with 1 1/2" styro. The large windows have 12" x 12" and 24" x 24" plugs that slip in and out to allow sunlight in during the day.

The AC ducts and AC intakes are block off with 2" XPS

The top of the slide a 1" EPDM foam that is held on with velcro

Condensation is the enemy. A small inverter and dehumidifier that works at cooler (65F) temps is a must have.

I'm installing a Propex heater. Hoping it will reduce the draw on the batteries during the shoulder seasons. If it works I'll add anther to heat the front of the trailer and the tanks.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Propex_Heatsource_Unit_p/hs2000.htm

A spay bottle
and some windshield antifreeze that can be used to thaw ice on the slides.

In a week a 2000w generator will be run (no solar) approx 4-6 hrs a day.

Slide toppers are an added benefit.

A ladder and a bush broom to clean snow off the roof.

jtbuilds, On the temps that your working with... did you mean "minus" 12 to 24

So far we've been on the positive side not the negative side.
jtbuilds
Explorer
Oct 01, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
jtbuilds,

Look for an un powered through the wall vented heater.

Here is one:

http://www.gasheaterstore.com/Williams-1403821-Direct-Vent-Furnace--14000-btu--Propane-LP-_p_89.html

Looked at a few of those but the finding and a space on an inside wall was an issue and so was the venting.
memtb
Explorer
Sep 30, 2017
jtbuilds wrote:
We dry camp every year in the winter. The longest has been 7 nights at temps between 25F and 12F.

Tank heater consume allot of battery power. We don't use them

The best tool to have is a muti channel thermometer. We have an older AcuRite that charts the temps over 2-3 days. We place the thermometers by the batteries, pass though, dump valves, outside and an outside wall where the waterline run.

We'll stuff the wet bay full of Roxul insulation. The windows are filled with 1 1/2" styro. The large windows have 12" x 12" and 24" x 24" plugs that slip in and out to allow sunlight in during the day.

The AC ducts and AC intakes are block off with 2" XPS

The top of the slide a 1" EPDM foam that is held on with velcro

Condensation is the enemy. A small inverter and dehumidifier that works at cooler (65F) temps is a must have.

I'm installing a Propex heater. Hoping it will reduce the draw on the batteries during the shoulder seasons. If it works I'll add anther to heat the front of the trailer and the tanks.

https://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Propex_Heatsource_Unit_p/hs2000.htm

A spay bottle
and some windshield antifreeze that can be used to thaw ice on the slides.

In a week a 2000w generator will be run (no solar) approx 4-6 hrs a day.

Slide toppers are an added benefit.

A ladder and a bush broom to clean snow off the roof.

jtbuilds, On the temps that your working with... did you mean "minus" 12 to 24
pianotuna
Nomad III
Sep 30, 2017
jtbuilds,

Look for an un powered through the wall vented heater.

Here is one:

http://www.gasheaterstore.com/Williams-1403821-Direct-Vent-Furnace--14000-btu--Propane-LP-_p_89.html

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