Colder weather camping

[Njmurvin]

Being from SoCal, I'm not well versed in colder weather camping. My AF is a 4 season coach. So what does that actually mean? At what temps do you become concerned about freezing (city water, tank fresh water, holding tanks, indoor pipes)? How does the underbelly get heated (is it ducted from the furnace)? Are there different strategies for dry camping vs hooked up? For example, I like to run a small electric space heater when hooked up to electric. But that won't heat the underbelly (except the heat that might radiate through the floor). I'm just looking for some advice for when temps get into the 20s and below (particularly overnight).

[fulltime5er]

I just fill my on board water tank and use it instead of messing with a heated hose for water. I do have heated tanks, but make sure you don't turn them on with empty tanks. It can melt the tanks if they are empty. I would not worry about the tanks if 20 degrees or above.

[memtb]

NJmurvin, You may contact AF, and see if a manual or PDF download is available for your specific model. If so...that should answer many of your questions. Or maybe someone with an identical model could give some help. Good Luck

[Njmurvin]

GON2SKI wrote:
There are two switches on the side of the fridge above the stove......one 12v for tank heaters and one for 110v for tank heater. These were options at ordering our unit. We enjoy both dry and hookups clear into Nov at temps of 10 degrees.

I only have one switch in that location. That's for the ceiling fan. Looks like no heated tanks option on my unit.

[DiskDoctr]

Pay attention to what you have in your storage compartments. I don't think they would be heated, so make sure you don't have things in there to be damaged or burst.

Good luck 😉

[4x4ord]

The temperatures your talking are nit far off what we are experiencing now in southern Alberta. My RV is parked out in front of the house with the propane shut off, no power hooked up and water in the tanks....I'm not worried about it yet. When dry camping in cool weather I set the furnace at 54 degrees and find it comfortable for sleeping. I prefer having shore power and using silent electric heat. For the temperatures you're talking you dont have to worry about tanks freezing.

[mtofell1]

There are really two different questions here - keeping the RV free of damage and keeping you comfortable. With daytime temps in the 40s/50s and nighttime in the 20s there's really no risk of causing any damage to the RV no matter what you do. Maybe a frozen water supply hose but not much else assuming it warms back up well above freezing during the day.

For the usage you are describing use your electric heaters as long as you are hooked to shore power if you prefer them over the furnace (I know I do). Heated underbelly and all that are really for temps below freezing for prolonged periods.

[memtb]

Njmurvin, It's a learning curve. You're in the right place to get much information... much of it conflicting! Colder is a "relative term"! Handling cool weather is the summation of your preparedness and your RV's ability. Go to an Artic Fox forum, and "pick their brains", on winter camping... what are the approximate limits and what they specifically do for the "colder" temperatures. We're not AF experts, but 10 F should be pretty easy.

The water supply (hose) will probably be your greatest challenge. Heat tape and insulation will take care of some pretty low temps. Of course, the campground must have heat taped,insulated,frost free faucets for your supply if the weather is pretty cold for a lengthly period. We lived in our 5 er full time through 2 winters ( while building our home) seeing quite a few minus 30's and colder. As mentioned...you will use quite a bit of propane. If you are going to do fairly long term camping, get an extra pair of 40#er's. Buys you more time to get your refills done. If your going to full time it for a long period of time in one location....consider a large rental tank ( example: 250 gallon) from a propane service company. It's much cheaper per gallon for your refills. As heat rises, put insulated "pillows" ( can be purchased) in your vent (Fantastic Fan) opening. This will stop a lot of heat loss. Windows are another "huge" source of heat loss. A roll of foil type insulation can be cut to fit, and placed on windows not important for your "viewing pleasure"! It could even be added to the inside of your basement cargo doors for added insulation. And of course, make sure all of your access door(s) have good gaskets. None of this should be necessary, if your only seeing the low 20's.

Don't worry, you've got a pretty good cool weather unit...you'll be fine!

We like winter camping....it opens a whole new world of experiences!

[GON2SKI]

There are two switches on the side of the fridge above the stove......one 12v for tank heaters and one for 110v for tank heater. These were options at ordering our unit. We enjoy both dry and hookups clear into Nov at temps of 10 degrees.

[dieseltruckdriv]

We camp at those temps, and you shouldn't have to worry. We don't have dual pane windows, and if you go with full propane tanks you should be fine. We have a Honeywell programmable thermostat to lower temps to 60 overnight and then warm it up before we have to get out of bed in the morning.

[ScottG]

If you have the electric heat pads for your tanks you will have switchs someplace for them.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I solved the water line freeze up problem by replacing the cold air return grill with a two fan unit intended for a window. It draws a whole 23 watts so I run it from the inverter when traveling. It causes some air flow through the duct work as well. I've camped down to -37 c (-34 f). I refuse to dry camp.

[SidecarFlip]

2oldman wrote:
Just an fyi, I've done a bit of cold weather dry camping.. just enough to realize it's not at all fun.

+1 Cold weather (below freezing) camping is dry camping for me. Dry as in no water to freeze so no toilet, no shower and no sink either. Just like sleeping in a tent, without the tent.

[time2roll]

I believe AF comes with an excellent Progressive Dynamics converter to recharge the battery quickly. I would plan to run the generator 2 to 4 hours into the evening if you expect to make it through the night running the furnace at 50. Still check your propane daily.

Might try a weekender before the big trip. Just in case you need to bail out and rethink how to prepare.

[2oldman]

Njmurvin wrote:
i have 2 x 40lb tanks (an extra 20lb over most standard RV tanks). Propane would be mostly dedicated to the furnace and WH. Cooking is mostly outside and off a separate, smaller tank.

.. I currently have a dual 12V system with 135 watts solar. That may not be enough to run a furnace all night. However, wouldn't I only have to set it high enough to keep things from freezing (e.g. 40, 50 deg?).

I'd hate to run a generator at night,.

I carry 4 30lb (5 gallon) tanks. In cold weather you should carry more than you do. Propane exchanges are expensive but darn handy should you need them.

40 or 50 deg would work for the pipes, but what about you? Can you get out of bed to those temps? How do you plan on keeping warm in bed?

You don't want to run a generator at night.

[campinghut]

The factory might know by serial number about the heat pads but if you do not have any extra switches I would say you don't as it was and is an option. The 2 12v batteries should last the night and you will just have to top them up with the generator. The propane should last at least a week would be my guess.