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Decal

kjk66ss
Explorer
Explorer
can anyone recommend a shop to replace all my decals on my 2009 raptor 300mp?
The decals are horrible and should have negotiated that when I bought it used off the lot. I basically need to replace every single decal.

I can hardly wash or wax the 5th wheel these days, the decals flake off everywhere and get all of the microfibers when trying to wax.
31 REPLIES 31

maps
Explorer
Explorer
deltamaster wrote:
The yellow decals came off in two sections, first the yellow colored vinyl peeled off and left behind a rubbery gray substrate which had to be removed with acetone. I had to use the eraser wheel on most of the black/gray.


Great info deltamaster. I had the same rubbery gray adhesive left behind on many of my graphics. I found if I sprayed it with the adhesive remover and waited a few minutes I could then use the plastic razor blades to easily scrape off the residue, especially in the sun. I liked the adhesive remover because it is citrus based and hopefully was easier on the wax.
2003 Super Duty 6.0L, 4x4, some things added and some things missing
2005 KZ Sportsman Sportster 33P
2012 KTM 350XCF
2008 KTM 450XCR-W

RUFFSTUFF
Explorer
Explorer
In general decals will not last regardless of the manufacturer. I cut them in my spare time and the highest end vinyl material is rated for 7 years outdoor. The decals on our old TT started cracking and peeling about the 3 year mark and got progressively worse. Our new TH is painted not decals so that seems promising...
2014 KZ Inferno 3712T
2015 Ford F350 DRW Platinum 6.7L
2010 Ford F250 Crew Cab 6.4L

deltamaster
Explorer
Explorer
Decal removal with a hair dryer is not too bad as long as the decals are not dried and cracked. If they are then it becomes a cumbersome chore to the point that the eraser wheel is about all that will work. The wheel does not last as long as I expected and throws off a lot of rubber crumbs that look like sawdust.

I used all those techniques on mine. Some sections came off quite nicely with a heat gun and a scraper but the cracked sections were a real PITA! I noticed the dark blue decals were not cracked and dry like the black and dark gray ones. The blue came off fairly easy but the black did not.

The yellow decals came off in two sections, first the yellow colored vinyl peeled off and left behind a rubbery gray substrate which had to be removed with acetone. I had to use the eraser wheel on most of the black/gray.

YES! The decals are installed before the windows and doors. I know this as I had to remove several due to water intrusion damage and found the decals went right up to the edge of the cutout.
:E [purple]I ride it like I stole it![/purple] :B

.......and I just may have.......



I'm on "CB-13", are you?



2004 Fun Mover with a 1998 Road King and a 2002 Sportster tucked in the garage, Dragging a 2002 "RAM Tough" Dodge Dakota Crew Cab. Ohhh what a haul!

TSgt(Ret.) USAF

kjk66ss
Explorer
Explorer
I got the astro eraser pad. I noticed the decals at the entrance side of the trailer go under the arms for the awning. When the decals are installed by the dealer, are they installed before the windows and all the other accessories are installed? Looks like the decals run beyond the edge of the window frame.

maps
Explorer
Explorer
I just removed all the graphics from my trailer and replaced them. Removal is not that bad. I used a hair dryer, plastic razor blades and adhesive remover. I bought 3 of the erasers but used only one and was not really that impressed.
2003 Super Duty 6.0L, 4x4, some things added and some things missing
2005 KZ Sportsman Sportster 33P
2012 KTM 350XCF
2008 KTM 450XCR-W

eliberatore
Explorer
Explorer
Has anyone tried stripping off the old decals and doing a vinyl wrap? If so how was your experience? I've been considering this as an option but haven't gone out to get quotes yet.

I just bought a 2007 Coachmen Adrenaline Lite 26FS from my brother-in-law.

rwdl60
Explorer
Explorer
We have a 2008 Raptor 3602 and our decals are also “horrible” (peeling off, crinkling off, and simple falling off) :S

We bought our Raptor “brand new”, and for a year or two, even had it in covered storage. We’ve seen other rigs of that year, of different manufactures; not having as many problems with their decals. We’ve also seen newer, and even older Raptors not having as much difficulties with their decals.

I think Keystone during those years (2008-2009), must have been in financial difficulty, and to stay afloat, decided to use cheaper (thinner) decals on their Raptors (along with cheaper glue).

I say this, because when we bought the rig, I remember reading about the difficulties the RV industry as a whole, was having at that time (2008-2009). I think Keystone took it out on the Raptors decals (penny pinching).

We will also have to remove “ALL” our decals and either replace them with newer ones, or get a full body paint.

I think we will not trust Keystone if we have to re-order our decals. They may send us replacement decals, as cheap as their originals.

It seems odd to us, that with all the reasonable nice work Keystone put inside the Raptor’s during those years (cabinet wood, wall trim, window decorations, and so on), they would neglect to use higher quality decals on the outside.

Has anyone called them, to see if there replacement decals are of a better quality than their original (2008-2009 decals)? I know there are better quality decals out there some were (thicker and better glue).
2008 Keystone Raptor 3602RL
2008 Chevy 3500 6.6L Diesel Crew Cab Alison/Duramax LTZ Dooley
2006 Goldwing 1800 Nav Titanium
2004 Yamaha Vstar Classic

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
kjk66ss wrote:
What is a good way to line up the new decals where the old ones were?
Where the old decals were it will be brighter then the sun faded trailer.

kjk66ss
Explorer
Explorer
What is a good way to line up the new decals where the old ones were?

deltamaster
Explorer
Explorer
Old decals can be VERY difficult to remove. I know. I removed mine last summer. I used three eraser wheels, acetone, a heat gun and a lot of physical labor.

I HATE those decals! Once they go bad they look terrible and once they get to look terrible they are hard to remove.
:E [purple]I ride it like I stole it![/purple] :B

.......and I just may have.......



I'm on "CB-13", are you?



2004 Fun Mover with a 1998 Road King and a 2002 Sportster tucked in the garage, Dragging a 2002 "RAM Tough" Dodge Dakota Crew Cab. Ohhh what a haul!

TSgt(Ret.) USAF

steiny93
Explorer
Explorer
yep; that one with the link provided

for the glue get some 3m adhesive remover or similar (amazon also has those)
as stated; watch the rpm and don't burn the paint; you just want to remove the decal
2000 Volvo 610
2013 Cyclone 3950

mustangglp
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Smart-Eraser-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=14140...

here you go
The key is having a drill that's the right speed They work good used them for year when i was doing auto collision
Gary

kjk66ss
Explorer
Explorer
What kind of eraser am I looking for? And what about the glue?

steiny93
Explorer
Explorer
The labor for removing the decals is going to be the expensive part; if you have the energy you can do them yourself you can save a pile of cash. I used to work detail shop; you can get an 'eraser' that goes on a cordless drill; it'll remove the decals for you. Available at body shop supply stores. If your decals are flaking that bad they will prolly come off pretty easy.

On my hdt (one in my sig); I bought the decals from the 5th wheel company then had a sign shop install them on the truck. $200 for them to-do the full install after I had the previous decals off the truck.

Also remember that you can switch up your new decals. Cyclone for example lets you order exactly what you want; guessing you could do the same with your raptor and adjust your decal price if you wanted to.
2000 Volvo 610
2013 Cyclone 3950

kjk66ss
Explorer
Explorer
Eric, I talked to my dealer and they can get the complete decal set for little over $2,000. But they gave me an estimate of 2-3 hrs per decal to remove and install . So you're looking at about 40 hours @ whatever the shop labor rate is .

How ever, I needed a piece of trim around my door inside and the dealer witted me 58$ for a stick and I found it on trek wood website for 13$. Go figure.