DROPPED IT

[retired-tech]

Well I have joined the club. Pulled out yesterday and while straightening out the trailer became detached. the box on the old truck is wasted. I was wondering what kind of damage others have seen on the trailer after a similar incident.

[fj12ryder]

up2nogood wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:

Ric Flair wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the B&W hitches are less prone to this. If there's weight on the hitch it won't unlock. At least mine is that way.

Yes and no. If you've pulled the handle, even with weight on the hitch it can be pulled from under the 5th wheel. However, if the handle has snapped forward when you've engaged the jaws, then you're good to go. Just don't forget to put the pin in the handle so someone doesn't pull it when you're not around.

And don't pin the handle in the open position. That's about the only way you can drop your trailer with a B&W hitch. It's a pretty foolproof hitch.

No different then the Reese ,never tried to release the handle when the weight is on it, but then never seen the need, I always take the weight off before releasing the handle. Made this point before, but will again, I CANNOT lock my handle open, it catches in the open position but closes when backed into. Hard to figure out why the B&W can be locked in the open position . Yup mine is also fool proof until it isn't, just like the B&W .

I'll have to admit that I also don't understand why there is the ability to pin the B&W hitch open. I didn't even know it until someone posted that they had pinned their hitch open and subsequently dropped their trailer when they pulled away without realizing they had left the handle pinned open.

[avvidclif1]

breeno wrote:
New 5er owner here. These threads have made me completely paranoid. Pull test and 4 visuals and I'm still gnashing my teeth as I pull away. And the B&W seems pretty much foolproof, but I'm a very talented fool, so...

I suppose it'll get better over time 🙂
Oh, and I'll never buy another TT again. These things are simply awesome to pull!!

Naw, you'll get used to it, do the visuals right and no problems.

I haven't seen anything about the high handles on the Reese hitches but I see where that could be a problem. I just thought most drops were because of high hitching.

On hitching up;
Make sure the jaws are open, don't laugh.

The trailer should have to climb the hitch, slightly, not go into it level.

Once the jaws close put it in drive and see if the truck pulls out. Don't try to drag the trailer and landing gear. You should also still have the chocks under the tires.

Visual check; look for 2 things. Is there daylight between the trailer pin box and the hitch, there shouldn't be? Think of the hitch pin as an upside down nail, the head should be below the jaws or sliding bar, not above. If above you will see daylight in the first step. If ok then.

Finish locking the hitch, hook up the pigtail, connect the brake cable, raise landing gear, remove chocks, close tailgate if needed, and drive off into the sunset.

[cummins2014]

fj12ryder wrote:

Ric Flair wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the B&W hitches are less prone to this. If there's weight on the hitch it won't unlock. At least mine is that way.

Yes and no. If you've pulled the handle, even with weight on the hitch it can be pulled from under the 5th wheel. However, if the handle has snapped forward when you've engaged the jaws, then you're good to go. Just don't forget to put the pin in the handle so someone doesn't pull it when you're not around.

And don't pin the handle in the open position. That's about the only way you can drop your trailer with a B&W hitch. It's a pretty foolproof hitch.

No different then the Reese ,never tried to release the handle when the weight is on it, but then never seen the need, I always take the weight off before releasing the handle. Made this point before, but will again, I CANNOT lock my handle open, it catches in the open position but closes when backed into. Hard to figure out why the B&W can be locked in the open position . Yup mine is also fool proof until it isn't, just like the B&W .

[cummins2014]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I have said it before there is something about the Reese hitches (I assume yours has the high handle) that make them more likely to have a problem. Almost every bed damage I see have a Reese hitch in the bed or the same stile with the high bar. Anyone have an idea about this?

Sorry you had this happen.

I think the easiest answer is that there are probably more reese hitches then any other, I have made this same point before. When I back in ,and the handle slams shut on my REESE HITCH it is hooked, no doubt, no different then yours. Trying to pin it on reese is ridiculous.

[DodgeVoltage]

Reading all these posts about newbies, and some not so newbies, pulling massive trailers and not knowing how to makes me nervous to be on the roads at the same time. I guess all this hitching, towing, and backing comes too natural to me. I would never own some of these hitches people pull with. Seems to me they are just time bombs waiting to kill someone. It also boggles my mind how many campers come over to me asking how I just managed to back my camper up so easily. These are basic skills that should be mastered before you get out of town for safety reasons. Not intending to be mean here, but if you can't back your rig up, take it to a parking lot before you pull it across the country and practice.

I was in an Alaskan RV park once while we lived up there and had a Canadian couple come up to me after I backed into a dump station to dump asking me to give them some backing tips. I had to wait on them about 30 minutes to get backed into their site before I could get by to dump. I watched him twist the wheel every direction but the direction he wanted to go. He pulled up 10 or 11 times. She was throwing her arms around trying to get him to move over. It was comical, but at the same time pretty annoying. After talking to them a little while, I had found that they towed most of the way across Canada to get there. They were avoiding situations where they had to back up. I told them they were going to have to get it figured out. They were extremely nice, but had bitten off more than they could chew. Maybe a Class B would have been a better choice. This was in 2010 and I'm certain they have probably dropped their camper on their bed by now.

I understand everyone needs to start somewhere.

[dave17352]

rhagfo wrote:

retired-tech wrote:
Yes it was the fifth wheel. there is not much visible damage to the trailer. The trailer was latched, and we pulled it quite a hill to get out of the drive just before it came down. The flip over catch that holds the handle of the reese 15k was forced up by the handle as it went by.

the worst part is really that I tow with about 12" between the box and trailer so it had a long way to fall, and it hit hard.

Well if the pin box hit the handle, here is a simple fix for that issue. I didn't drop the 5er, but noticed a scuff mark on the upward rising part of the handle!! This is what I did to my Reese twin jaw 16K hitch

BEFORE



AFTER

Simple cut and re-drill the cotter pin hole.



I missed a step in my hitching procedure heading to the weigh station & Dump station the other day. Left the lock just like the second picture, towed the 5er about 12 miles that way. As long as nothing is pushing on that handle, the jaws will NOT open!!

Never mind now I see what you did.

[rhagfo]

retired-tech wrote:
Yes it was the fifth wheel. there is not much visible damage to the trailer. The trailer was latched, and we pulled it quite a hill to get out of the drive just before it came down. The flip over catch that holds the handle of the reese 15k was forced up by the handle as it went by.

the worst part is really that I tow with about 12" between the box and trailer so it had a long way to fall, and it hit hard.

Well if the pin box hit the handle, here is a simple fix for that issue. I didn't drop the 5er, but noticed a scuff mark on the upward rising part of the handle!! This is what I did to my Reese twin jaw 16K hitch

BEFORE



AFTER

Simple cut and re-drill the cotter pin hole.



I missed a step in my hitching procedure heading to the weigh station & Dump station the other day. Left the lock just like the second picture, towed the 5er about 12 miles that way. As long as nothing is pushing on that handle, the jaws will NOT open!!

[breeno]

New 5er owner here. These threads have made me completely paranoid. Pull test and 4 visuals and I'm still gnashing my teeth as I pull away. And the B&W seems pretty much foolproof, but I'm a very talented fool, so...

I suppose it'll get better over time 🙂
Oh, and I'll never buy another TT again. These things are simply awesome to pull!!

[Cummins12V98]

I have said it before there is something about the Reese hitches (I assume yours has the high handle) that make them more likely to have a problem. Almost every bed damage I see have a Reese hitch in the bed or the same stile with the high bar. Anyone have an idea about this?

Sorry you had this happen.

[fj12ryder]

Ric Flair wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the B&W hitches are less prone to this. If there's weight on the hitch it won't unlock. At least mine is that way.

Yes and no. If you've pulled the handle, even with weight on the hitch it can be pulled from under the 5th wheel. However, if the handle has snapped forward when you've engaged the jaws, then you're good to go. Just don't forget to put the pin in the handle so someone doesn't pull it when you're not around.

And don't pin the handle in the open position. That's about the only way you can drop your trailer with a B&W hitch. It's a pretty foolproof hitch.

[BlindGuynAR]

Ric Flair wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the B&W hitches are less prone to this. If there's weight on the hitch it won't unlock. At least mine is that way.

X2.

[Water-Bug]

hone eagle wrote:

Never done a pull test with the new truck because it too powerful .

You're not supposed to floor it. Manually locking the brake controler and placing the truck in drive should do it.

[Vulcaneer]

I bent one side of my truck bed. Backing while turning, the trailer wheels sank in the mud. One side the underside of 5'r sank down and tweaked the bedrail. That hurts.

I did fix it but, one part of me thought to leave it that way, because something else will happen again. And besides the tweak is not really a functional problem. And neither is a drop. It just adds needed clearance for next time it happens.

[notruffinit]

Been there and done that. Makes you sick to your stomach almost immediately and there are all kinds of reasons and situations that will let this happen. I check everything myself now even if my DW of 38 years says all is ready. If it happens, not all is lost. It is why we have insurance and it call all be repaired as long as no body was injured. Feel for ya bro.

[outdoorlovers]

Thanks for all your suggestions. Will copy them and print them to have on hand. I would much rather be too cautious in the beginning and spend a couple extra minutes reviewing your routines.