Gap in the 2nd deck moulding when hooked

I am certainly no expert but that just isn't right. Since it has progressed over time that should tell you that something is weakening in the frame when the weight is supported by the pin.

I'd have that checked ASAP before it totally collapses.

S

I'd suggest dropping the chin of the pin box area and checking for broken welds or frame members. Something is definitely not right - especially if it is worsening over time. Dangerous? For sure if the frame breaks and the rig falls on your bed rails - at best!
There have been a number of post on various forums about fifth wheel pin box frame structure issues. Just my opinion, but I'd get it checked SOON! Phillip

That looks like the infamous Keystone/ Lippert front frame failure. These pages had a lot of stories about them a couple of years ago. The fix is to strip off the pin box and lower front area panel(s), and have a welder go to work. If you ignore it, it can fail completely.

One of many old threads

Frame flex and leads to frame failure. It may be under the chin, but again, it may be a failure in the sidewall frame. The corner where the bedroom slide out is a weak point.

Ken

Oh yea, you have a Lippert frame failure. DO NOT TOW ONE MILE FURTHER! Have it taken to a qualified repair facility to be stripped and repaired correctly. This is an extremely dangerous situation and not a DIY project unless your a certified welder.

As stated, there are plenty of cases of 5th wheel frame failures. Either broken welds or broken metal, especially the front cross members. Many of these are on older frames with fairly straight front caps and the front crossmember is straight. But units with notched front caps also have a notched front cross member. But more significant is the spacing between front and rear cross members that secure the pin box. On older frames the spacing is about 24 inches. On newer frames, with the notch, the front crossmember attaches to the side frame rails just a few inches ahead of the rear cross member.

While I don't have your brand or model, I measured flex about 3 X more than what is considered acceptable. My 2011 was less than 6 months old when Lippert agreed to fix the problem which involved removal of the front cap and dropping the chin plastic, followed by some additional bracing. Within a month of fixing my unit, Lippert changed the frame design on new units.

Since mine was fixed, I can't say for sure the likely point of failure. But besides the classic failure points around the pin box area, it is also possible that the main side rails below the bedroom walls are failing, anywhere from the pin box back to above the landing legs. This is especially likely given the moulding separation, since failures in the pin box area frequently show damage to the front cap and bedroom closet.

Cost can easily be $5000, it is dangerous and if not fixed now, repair costs will only go higher.

OK, I get it... where should I go to have this fix ? I'm presently in Van Horn TX, heading south to Mercedes TX. Any suggestion ?

Thanks,

Claude

I read a post some time back where a guy was on I-10 in Indio, Ca when it collapsed onto his truck. Had it towed and found a local welding shop to do the work. He was stuck there for I think 3 days. Then had to deal with the damage to the truck bed. They all flex a little but I have a lippert chassis and always check my sidewalls after reading that post. Find the nearest large rv dealer and talk to them. Good luck.

What you have is sidewall and forward frame separation.

The sidewalls sit down on the horizontal portion of 5vr frame and are secured to that horizontal frame via bolts/lag screws thru bottom and/or thru side plates.

The bolts/screws have broken. When you raise the front landing gear and the weight of 5vr is applied to hitch the sidewalls lift from the front causing that gap.

The overhang panel around pinbox will need to be removed exposing the pinbox structure and the sidewall plates.
Extra holes will need to be drilled thru horizontal frame side wall plates in a 'W' pattern and new lag bolts installed plus a some 2" angle iron sections welded to secure sidewall plates to horizontal frame members.

Plus you will need to brace/support pinbox structure as needed IF you find flex issues.


The 'empty' holes are OEM where lag bolts had broken

alcsiobc wrote:
OK, I get it... where should I go to have this fix ? I'm presently in Van Horn TX, heading south to Mercedes TX. Any suggestion ?

Thanks,

Claude

You need an RV dealer with indoor repair facilities. They can remove the trim, drop the chin panel and if necessary remove the front cap. On mine, once all the screws were removed and caulk separated, they just tilted the cap up away from the frame and propped it up with a short 2x4 off the pin box rather than taking it off completely. If the dealer doesn't have a certified welder, then a mobile welder will be needed. In my case, a Lippert mobile welder came from 150 miles away, but that was because it was a warranty repair. He had a Lippert drawing of the frame and had pre-fabricated extra steel per Lippert headquarters. You will need a local welder so he can first inspect the damage and then prepare new structural steel to make the frame repair. There are also special bolts that attach the aluminum wall framing to the steel frame and most likely, the holes in the aluminum have already been wallowed out due to the flexing, so new bolts and new locations will be needed. After the welder is finished, the RV dealer can reinstall and re-caulk everything.

Just installing/replacing bolts will not be a permanent solution.