Help trailer brakes went out (UPDATE)

[57_Panhead]

Today while on our way to San Diego the brakes on our 2012 Jayco Eagle 5er stopped working. At first it was intermittent then they just stopped all together. Our TV is a 2007 Ford with an integrated brake controller. I have checked all fuses on the truck and confirmed that there is power to the trailer plug so the problem must be in the trailer but I don't even begin to know how to trouble shoot this. We are currently in an RV park in tehachapi CA with reservations for tomorrow in SD. HELP!!!

[RoyB]

I carry one of these 7-way BRAKE TESTERs in my RV TOOL BOX. This checks out the TRUCK SIDE by observing the proper LED lights on the tester coming on when they should.... Available from ETRAILER-AMAZON-some local Auto parts stores... They also make one for the 4-WAY Brake connector (I have both - very handy to have)


Then I use the "PULL THE EMERGENCY BRAKE DISCONNECT" plunger on the TRAILER SIDE which tests the trailer brakes... This locks up all of the brakes on the trailer without being connected to the TRUCK BRAKE CONTROLLER from the truck.. On my brakes I can hear a low tone at each each brake magnet engaged. You can also use a compass which most folks carry to find true north when setting their OTA Antenna looking for OTA TV SIGNALS from local towns. If the BRAKE MAGNET is activated the compass will point to it...

BE CAUTIOUS to put the plunger back into its socket and not let this procedure to stay activated very long. Long term BRAKE engaged may harm your magnets as maximum 12VDC voltage is being applied. This could also drain your trailer battery rather quickly. Each BRAKE magnet draws 3AMPs each... With four BRAKE MAGNETS engaged that adds up to 12AMPS of current being drawn from your trailer battery.

Glad you found your problem

Roy Ken

[greende]

Glad it worked out.

[57_Panhead]

Ok. Here is an update. Turns out that it was a bad ground in the junction box on the pinbox that the incompetent boobs at Manteca Trailer installed to fix another issue in the wiring. They didn't crimp one end of the butt connector for the main ground. Re did all the ground wires and voila, brakes now work fine. Every time my trailer was in that shop for warranty work they messed up something else, EVERY TIME!!!! Now that the trailer is out of warranty they will never see this trailer again!

Thanks to all for your suggestions and input, it is much appreciated.

Steve

[cbari]

I have had this same problem twice on an older Alumascape. Both times it was a problem with a broken or worn wire at the wheel. The first time the wire had rubbed against the wheel until the insulation was gone, then it would short out every time it touched a ground. The solution was to replace the wire and be sure it and all the other brake wires were wire-tied away from the wheels. The second time one of the butt connectors corroded and broke. This was discovered after symptoms like your described - first intermittent, the complete failure. New connectors took care of that problem. Good luck on your troubleshooting!
Carroll

[Me_Again]

btd35 wrote:
Listen to Chris. Pull the emergency brake pin with it disconnected from the truck. If they work then check your wiring at the plug on the trailer, or get yourself a 12 volt needle light tester and check for voltage on the trailer lighting. I've had times the truck outlet has power, but the trailer plug did not make a good connection with it.

This is a very simple test that cuts the location of the problem in half with only a couple minutes of your time required!

Chris

[Vulcaneer]

fpresto wrote:
Since you said it was intermittent and then went to total failure that does narrow it down. A missing ground is one possibility but a very common issue, especially with intermittent brakes, is how the wires run to the wheels. They usually run down one side or the other and then go through the axle to get to the other side. Unfortunately the inside of most axles is not smooth and the OEMs do not sheath the wires. Normal vibration then rubs bare spots in the insulation causing intermittent shorts and eventually failure. While this might not be your problem it is a very common cause of brake issues.

I would bet it is a worn wire inside one of the hubs. Most likely close to the mechanical linkage the actuated to brakes. You need to check them all....very closely....to find it. It will be found in the last one you check. Isn't it always?

[fandango49]

Try spraying the both halves of the electrical plugs with a contact cleaner or something like CRC 566.

[safeman]

Had a similar problem on a brand new 5th wheel. First trip out got intermittent brakes and then none at all.
After much trouble-shooting I found that the connections at the axle were twist-on wire nuts. Connections were badly corroded. Stripped back to fresh wire and soldered. No more problems.
It is worth checking.

[fpresto]

Since you said it was intermittent and then went to total failure that does narrow it down. A missing ground is one possibility but a very common issue, especially with intermittent brakes, is how the wires run to the wheels. They usually run down one side or the other and then go through the axle to get to the other side. Unfortunately the inside of most axles is not smooth and the OEMs do not sheath the wires. Normal vibration then rubs bare spots in the insulation causing intermittent shorts and eventually failure. While this might not be your problem it is a very common cause of brake issues.

[Smax]

We had a similar problem on the way to Yellowstone last summer (2010 Silverado 2500 - integrated controller). Trailer shop determined trailer brakes ok, so it was the truck.

Went to Spearfish GM. They also "got power" when activating brake at the connector.

Turns out it was the brake controller fuse. Even though it was pushing some voltage, not enough to activate brakes.

Bad connection on trailer pig tail was causing over compensation in brake circuit and blew fuse. cleaned pigtail, electrical goo in plug, new fuse - all better.

Hope this helps.

Max

[nremtp143]

May be time to replace the pigtail on the trailer. Could have a broken wire/blade in the connector. Not supposed to happen, but does.

[btd35]

Listen to Chris. Pull the emergency brake pin with it disconnected from the truck. If they work then check your wiring at the plug on the trailer, or get yourself a 12 volt needle light tester and check for voltage on the trailer lighting. I've had times the truck outlet has power, but the trailer plug did not make a good connection with it.

[AYRTIME]

Apply and release the trailer brakes several times with the controller and have someone listen for a hummm at each wheel.

[AYRTIME]

Apply and release the trailer brakes several times with the controller and have someone listen for a hummm at each wheel.