Forum Discussion

sgolembiewski09's avatar
Aug 27, 2019

How to test my furnace and water heater?

I recently bought a 2005 Keystone Cougar from my neighbor. He says everything works, I believe him, but like to see for myself. The only things I have been unable to figure out how to test are the furnace and the water heater...

live in Phoenix, AZ... so the water is already really hot, is there any way for me to test my water heater?

SWS6DE is the water heater type... do I just have to turn flip the outside switch to "on", tunr the water heat switch inside the trailer to "on", and I should be good? I believe it runs on both electric and gas.

As for the furnace... is it as simple as turning on the LP Gas and flipping the switch inside? It's a Suburban but it doesn't seem to say what model # it is, there is a sticker with a whole bunch of model #'s on it but I couldn't find any one clear model # for my unit.
  • Furnace: Turn on Propane at the tank, set thermostat to something warmer than the air temp and it should kick on automatically. Maybe later in the evening would be the best time to do that.

    Water Heater: if it's both electric and Propane, first make sure you have water in the tank. No water and you'll burn up the heating element when flipping on the electric switch. Once sure there's water in the tank, Flip the electric on/off switch on outside of tank and that's all you need to do. When testing the propane, turn on the propane at the tank, leave electric switch off and turn switch on inside the camper. It should light automatically. If it doesn't you'll need to adjust things. Wait about 15 minutes and check for hot water. You can use both electric and propane for the water heater but I wouldn't advise that until you're familiar with it. All that does it heat the water faster. Something I've never felt a need to do.
  • Thanks for the reply. What is the best way to fill up the hot water tank with water?

    RobWNY wrote:
    Furnace: Turn on Propane at the tank, set thermostat to something warmer than the air temp and it should kick on automatically. Maybe later in the evening would be the best time to do that.

    Water Heater: if it's both electric and Propane, first make sure you have water in the tank. No water and you'll burn up the heating element when flipping on the electric switch. Once sure there's water in the tank, Flip the electric on/off switch on outside of tank and that's all you need to do. When testing the propane, turn on the propane at the tank, leave electric switch off and turn switch on inside the camper. It should light automatically. If it doesn't you'll need to adjust things. Wait about 15 minutes and check for hot water. You can use both electric and propane for the water heater but I wouldn't advise that until you're familiar with it. All that does it heat the water faster. Something I've never felt a need to do.
  • Connect water to the RV inlet. Run the hot water at the sink until no more air comes out. Could be full already.
  • time2roll wrote:
    Connect water to the RV inlet. Run the hot water at the sink until no more air comes out.
    Alternately you can use the pressure relief valve at the top of the WH to expel air.
    sgolembiewski0903 wrote:
    ive in Phoenix, AZ... so the water is already really hot,.
    Lol.. it ain't that hot!..is it??
  • Probably not, but close! There might be a slight noticeable difference between the ground water and hot water heater water...

    Do I need to be careful when using the pressure relief valve?

    2oldman wrote:
    time2roll wrote:
    Connect water to the RV inlet. Run the hot water at the sink until no more air comes out.
    Alternately you can use the pressure relief valve at the top of the WH to expel air.
    sgolembiewski0903 wrote:
    ive in Phoenix, AZ... so the water is already really hot,.
    Lol.. it ain't that hot!..is it??
  • 2oldman wrote:
    time2roll wrote:
    Connect water to the RV inlet. Run the hot water at the sink until no more air comes out.
    Alternately you can use the pressure relief valve at the top of the WH to expel air.
    sgolembiewski0903 wrote:
    ive in Phoenix, AZ... so the water is already really hot,.
    Lol.. it ain't that hot!..is it??


    Yes, it is, especially if it's from a hose that's been laying in the sun all day. DANGEROUSLY HOT, to the point that it =will= burn you. 2nd degree and the occasional 3rd degree. My kitchen at home faces south, and you do =not= put your hands under the COLD water for at least 45 seconds to a minute during the day. Won't burn you, but it'll sure surprise hell out of you.

    Lyle
  • sgolembiewski0903 wrote:
    Do I need to be careful when using the pressure relief valve?
    Not if you open it first.
  • Just open the kitchen faucet hot side with water connected to RV

    T&P Relief will expel the air in WH Tank and then BLOW water all over you/everything
    Works but not becessary. ...Faucet hotside is more controlled.
    Air quits sputtering out/water flows WH Tank is full
    ***Make sure WH Tank bypass is NOT Open

    SLOWLY open the propane cylinder valve (Fully open r fully closed---no partial)
    Move the auto changeover regulator lever so it points towards cylinder you open
    Light off stove top burners---ALL On HIGH to establish propane flow thru LP SYSTEM

    THen set Wall thermostat to HEAT
    Set temp above room temp
    T-stat should CLICK---then furnace fan should come on
    Blower runs for several seconds to purge combustion chamber
    Then should hear CLICK, CLICK, CLICK of sprak electrode firing and gas vlave opening then a Whoosh when flame lights off
    ***can take several attempts before propane flow is established at furnace gas valve (turn t-stat off/then back on to reset firing sequence)

    Water heater...
    Inside On/Off Switch is for propane
    Outside switch is for electric
    Use propane so you can monitor operation (electric is silent ---hard to notie unless you have an amp meter)
    Turn propane switch on (water in WH TANK)
    RED light comes on then should go out
    Should hear CLICK,CLICK,CLICK of sparkk electrode firing
    Gas vlave opens...flame lights off---WHOOPH (slight roar)
    ***Can take several attempts to establish flow to gas valve---RED LIGHT comes back on if flame doesn't light off
    T-stat controls water temp (Opens at 130*F....Closes at 100*F for reheat)
    High Temp T-stat Opens at 170*F and trips. Have to manually reset (PUSH TO RESET COVER above gas valve. Left side/electric & right side/propane)
  • Yea it can get a bit tricky especially when no mater how much you run water at the house faucet, it never gets below warm. The thermometer on the side of the RV is reading 114 right now and it's the shady side...

    The heat is tested as mentioned at first light (coolest part of the day). Just go to the closest vent and when the furnace starts up, feel for the heat. Regardless of the air temp around you, you will feel the noticeable high temp when the furnace inside blower kicks in.

    Water heater is also checked as mentioned. Purge air form the water lines, turn on the heater and after awhile, check the hot water faucet for hot water. Again, regardless of the temp of the water entering, you will know if the water heater is working. If for some reason you must use a hose with a lengthy section baking in the sun that's connected to your city water inlet, disconnect it and just use the water in your internal tank to check that the water heater is working.