If your TV is maxed out - How far can you drive?

JRS & B wrote:
lillyputz - \

Running empty, 110 psi sounds like a hard ride and maybe even decreased traction on wet pavement.

What would you run them at when you are not towing?

They are M&S traction tires. I run 80psi unloaded. Besides the added load limit, with the higher plys and steel side walls ratings, you don't get any body roll, like with the standered LT tires. They also run cooler and get high tread milage.

Lillyputz

As always, I continue to learn from this forum. Thanks for the input.

Before we bought a FW toy hauler I researched part numbers between my 06 SRW Dodge 3500 and 06 SLT dual rear wheel model. The frame, axle, wheel outer ends and springs & attachments are shared parts. The door sticker weight rating (lowest component) is the Rge E tire rating x 2 tires. I installed 19.5 wheels rated at 5000 lbs each and 19.5 tires giving me over 9000lbs rating for the pair.

I run 70psi minimum and inflate to load/inflation table pressures if the the weight exceeds what 70psi is called for.

Our 17,000lbs FW with some groceries and a part load of fresh water puts the rear axle right at the door sticker (not over) and the higher rated tires and wheels give me the spare tire/wheel capacity I want (20% - 30%).

Previously we have hauled our truck camper / enclosed trailer combination over 20,000 miles with the Rge E rear tires right on axle max without incident but this was winter travel with no temps over 75F.

I also pull other trailers as needed with this truck with combined weights up to 26,000lbs. I sometimes have to shift out of high gear when grades exceed 6% but then I guess that is why it has a "6 speed" trans...

Based on our experience I would not change a truck out to haul a 16,000lbs FW regionally - I would use the money for rv travel...

joebedford wrote:
If it's a 1-ton SRW: sure. If it's a half-ton: no

WHAT? WAIT!
What is the difference between slightly overloading a 11 ton SRW and slightly overloading a half ton?

Are you saying a 1 ton SRW could successfully and safely be slightly overloaded? Are you also saying that a half ton could not successfully and slightly be overloaded?

That makes no sense to me!

It would of been cosher (I think) to give some weights up front.

Weight ratings are all well and good but the person driving has much more impact on safety. If you are within all ratings, a person could still drive like a moron and put everyone around you in jeopardy. (I was out of popcorn...)

Ok so the big trucks are running single tires, big deal the tires are probably at the same distance outside to outside when it was a dually rear setup and not where the inside dual tires would be. No magic anywhere just common sense a dual rear truck beats a single rear pickup for towing large fifthwheels.
chevman

Allworth wrote:
I'm sure I'll catch He== from the DRW fanatics for this, but THERE IS NO MAGIC IN DRW!!

Thousands of heavy trucks and trailers running Super Singles agree with you.

About 100 feet then the slide on coax adapters pull apart! I and thought about getting another length of coax and another barrel connector, however I can not see the 32 inch screen at 100 feet now! Chris

JRS & B wrote:
My question is, if I buy a fiver that is as much, or maybe a little more, than what my TV is supposed to handle, can I still gently tow that fiver a short distance if the need arose?

What I have in mind in particular is if I buy a fiver that really calls for a dually if it is going to be taken out on the road, but I neither have a dually nor intend to to take the new fiver out on the road, could I, "in a pinch", drag that ne fiver for up to 200 miles from campground A to campground B with a SRW?

Or should I just hire someone to move it?

So just what are you thinking of pulling? An 07 SRW Ram 3500 should be able to do a somewhat large 5er without exceeding the axle and tire ratings.
How far are you looking at? I tow over GVWR but have close to 1,000# of RAWR to spare. I don't give it a second thought, steers like on rails.