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My solar install (updated pics of roof pg 2)

clotus
Explorer
Explorer
Well I got all the parts, found the time, and finally got my solar system installed. Took a little longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out well. Here is my system in a nutshell:

- (2) Trojan 105 6v (225 amp-hr total)
- (3) Solar Cynergy 150-watt panels (450-watts total)
- Renogy mounts for the panels
- Bogart Engineering TriMetic TM-2030-A battery meter
- Bogart Engineering SC-2030 solar charger
- homemade combiner box
- 4-ga cable from combiner box to charger
- 40-amp and 60-amp 12v breakers
- Deltec 50mV/500Amp shunt

Budget for the total install was $2,000, and I came out to $1951.23 including all install parts.

The install turned out pretty good for my first go at a solar system and more important when I turned it all on it work! I ran the cable down the fridge vent, through the hot-water heater access panel, out the bottom of the 5ver, and forward to the front storage compartment.

The biggest hiccup I ran into was installing the battery meter. I installed it in the kitchen on the fridge wall. After careful consideration I decided I was good and cut my hole. Well building plans would have come in handy as there was a false compartment housing a tank vent right behind the paneling and of course I cut right in front of it. I did not cut the vent, but I did not have any room for the meter to sit into the hole. I built a 1" thick frame to push the meter out and stained it to match. I think it turned out well, but I would have preferred the flush mount.

I went with the Bogart solar charger because I had decided on the TriMetric meter and this works in conjunction with the charger. The meter and charger talk to each other via communication (telephone) cable which will support more accurate/efficient charging. Either way all I have left is to program the charging parameters and enjoy "free" power.







Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245
13 REPLIES 13

clotus
Explorer
Explorer
Finally finished up the "finishing work" of the install (wire looming, expanding foam, etc).

I used some globs of dicor self leveling to "glue" down the loomed solar wires. We will see if it holds. Not too concerened as the runs are not long and aren't going to go anywhere.

Here are a couple shots of the roof:





Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245

scrubjaysnest
Explorer
Explorer
clotus wrote:
Well I got all the parts, found the time, and finally got my solar system installed. Took a little longer than I anticipated, but I think it turned out well. Here is my system in a nutshell:

- (2) Trojan 105 6v (225 amp-hr total)
- (3) Solar Cynergy 150-watt panels (450-watts total)
- Renogy mounts for the panels
- Bogart Engineering TriMetic TM-2030-A battery meter
- Bogart Engineering SC-2030 solar charger
- homemade combiner box
- 4-ga cable from combiner box to charger
- 40-amp and 60-amp 12v breakers
- Deltec 50mV/500Amp shunt

Budget for the total install was $2,000, and I came out to $1951.23 including all install parts.

The install turned out pretty good for my first go at a solar system and more important when I turned it all on it work! I ran the cable down the fridge vent, through the hot-water heater access panel, out the bottom of the 5ver, and forward to the front storage compartment.

The biggest hiccup I ran into was installing the battery meter. I installed it in the kitchen on the fridge wall. After careful consideration I decided I was good and cut my hole. Well building plans would have come in handy as there was a false compartment housing a tank vent right behind the paneling and of course I cut right in front of it. I did not cut the vent, but I did not have any room for the meter to sit into the hole. I built a 1" thick frame to push the meter out and stained it to match. I think it turned out well, but I would have preferred the flush mount.

I went with the Bogart solar charger because I had decided on the TriMetric meter and this works in conjunction with the charger. The meter and charger talk to each other via communication (telephone) cable which will support more accurate/efficient charging. Either way all I have left is to program the charging parameters and enjoy "free" power.

snip photos


This is very nice
225 AH * 14.5 charge voltage * 1/0.77 panel + CC derating * 0.1 rate of charge = 424 watts

Trojans like a 10% or 22.5 amp charge rate and your just a little above.
Axis 24.1 class A 500watts solar TS-45CC Trimetric
Very noisy generator :M
2016 Wrangler JK dinghy
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin

scrubjaysnest
Explorer
Explorer
RoyB wrote:
I have been planning my 480WATT SOLAR PAnel setup to help charge a 300AH battery bank.

Been scrounging up parts I will need for a couple of years now for the roof of OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer... No way I could come up with $2000 haha...

Will most likely get two 120WATT Panels installed first and learn how to play with them before adding another larger 240WATT Panel... My OFF-ROAD camping drops my current battery bank down to 50% each day/run run and I recharge them back up to their 90% charge state starting at 8Am the next morning by connecting my trailer shore power cable to my 2KW Honda Generator 120VAC receptacle. Using my on-board smart mode converter/charger I can get from 50% to 90% charge state in around three hours of generator run time.

Am hoping the solar panels can take after I get past the high current charging and finish up my 90% charge state each day before losing the high sun.

My game plan at any rate...

Again nice install...

Roy Ken


Nice clean install...

Vmp of the 240 watt panel most likely won't be compatible with the 120 watt panels. 120 watt panels usually have a Vmp of 17 to 18 volts whereas the 240 watt is around 36 volts or maybe higher.
Just something to plan for.
2 - 120 watt panels also won't be enough by themselves to charge a 300AH bank.

Typical is to plan 100 watts solar per 100AH of battery.

The math:

300 AH * 14.5 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel + Controller derating * 0.05 rate of charge = 282 watts.
5% rate of charge is a minimum value by the way; batteries tend to last longer if you use a 10% to 13 % charge rate.

Just some thoughts
Axis 24.1 class A 500watts solar TS-45CC Trimetric
Very noisy generator :M
2016 Wrangler JK dinghy
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin

mrw8i
Explorer
Explorer
Nice

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have been planning my 480WATT SOLAR PAnel setup to help charge a 300AH battery bank.

Been scrounging up parts I will need for a couple of years now for the roof of OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer... No way I could come up with $2000 haha...

Will most likely get two 120WATT Panels installed first and learn how to play with them before adding another larger 240WATT Panel... My OFF-ROAD camping drops my current battery bank down to 50% each day/run run and I recharge them back up to their 90% charge state starting at 8Am the next morning by connecting my trailer shore power cable to my 2KW Honda Generator 120VAC receptacle. Using my on-board smart mode converter/charger I can get from 50% to 90% charge state in around three hours of generator run time.

Am hoping the solar panels can take after I get past the high current charging and finish up my 90% charge state each day before losing the high sun.

My game plan at any rate...

Again nice install...

Roy Ken


Nice clean install...
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
clotus wrote:
I would ultimately like to install one wired directly to the panel so all of my plugs go hot when the inverter is on. I know its not the most efficient way to do it, but seems like the best way for everyday life to me.
I don't know about efficient, but it's certainly the easiest.

It's just unusual to not have an inverter as part of a job like that, when 12v items don't really draw that much.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

clotus
Explorer
Explorer
wclement1248 wrote:
That is a very nice job. It looks very similar to the installation I am doing in our 5er. All equipment is the same except for 2 240A/H crown batteries. The two differences I see are that I installed a catastrophe fuse (250 amp) on the positive and then ran all positive wires from it. The second is that I am not planning on a batters disconnect. I will use the breakers when I need to disconnect the panels. Let us know how it works.


Catastrophe fuse is not a bad idea. I think I will have to add one when I get some more time. What fuse did you go with?

I use my breakers to disconnect the panels, but I use the switch as a disconnect for all of the 5er power items (i.e. - alarms, parasitic draws, etc.). The panels/charger are before the switch so they can keep the batteries charged without any draw from the 5er.

2oldman wrote:
No inverter?


Not yet. That will be in the future if we need one. We never needed one on my camper and have a small car-style one if needed. I would ultimately like to install one wired directly to the panel so all of my plugs go hot when the inverter is on. I know its not the most efficient way to do it, but seems like the best way for everyday life to me.
Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
No inverter?
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Well Done!
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wclement1248
Explorer
Explorer
That is a very nice job. It looks very similar to the installation I am doing in our 5er. All equipment is the same except for 2 240A/H crown batteries. The two differences I see are that I installed a catastrophe fuse (250 amp) on the positive and then ran all positive wires from it. The second is that I am not planning on a batters disconnect. I will use the breakers when I need to disconnect the panels. Let us know how it works.

clotus
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks. I still have some cleaning up, wire looming, and expanding foaming left to do, but for all intents and purposes its finished and I am making power 🙂
Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245

okan-star
Explorer
Explorer
Nice

Now save up for two more battery's , the system begs for them

4aSong
Explorer
Explorer
Very nice clean installation.
M & N

Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU