UPDATE!!!From everyone's opinions, personal experiences, and my own research, I will be having a SUBFRAME installed this week. This seems the only was that would be deemed safe and put my nerves at ease when towing thousands of miles. I would like to thank everyone for their frank opinions on this issue. I'll keep you updated and post pics when done.I need some advice and hopefully personal experience if anyone has it. I need to lift my trailer a couple inches for a level tow on my Grand Design 303rls. Lippert says that the only approved way is to extend the center hangers, weld a cross beam to limit lateral movement, and then using the stock shackle. This will raise it close to 2". Yes, the axles are already below the spring and the correct track is already on there from the factory. What do you guys think about this fabrication?

By any chance, is your truck "lifted" (i.e., higher than stock)?Rusty

nguyenbio wrote:I need some advice and hopefully personal experience if anyone has it. I need to lift my trailer a couple inches for a level tow on my Grand Design 303rls. Lippert says that the only approved way is to extend the center hangers, weld a cross beam to limit lateral movement, and then using the stock shackle. This will raise it close to 2". Yes, the axles are already below the spring and the correct track is already on there from the factory. What do you guys think about this fabrication?The factory that designed the frame, staffed with registered Professional Engineer's, tells you how to do it correctly and you are asking this bunch of "shade tree engineers"?That doesn't make sense.

Our 5th wheel was raised by the factory. In the same manner as Lippert advises. It's worked great for over 20 years.

Joe, after looking at the pic in your sig, it does not look that nose high to me. I would just leave it, if it is within 1-2 inches nose high.Are you having a problem with the way it tows? Mine is about 1.5 inches nose high, and works fine for me.Jerry

MFL wrote:Joe, after looking at the pic in your sig, it does not look that nose high to me. I would just leave it, if it is within 1-2 inches nose high.Are you having a problem with the way it tows? Mine is about 1.5 inches nose high, and works fine for me.JerryJerry, Please ignore the pic. That was with the 2014 F250 that was turned in due to it being a lemon. I recently upgraded to F350 FX4 CC SRW LWB. The truck is over 2" taller at the rear.As far as asking here, Lippert approves the mod, but does not warranty it of course. I am asking for some real world experiences on any failures.I've attached a pic for further investigation

Need opinions on lifting my 5er this way... | Good Sam Community

goducks10
Explorer
Mar 10, 2015
TXiceman wrote:
After looking at the photo, that is scary as Hell. And I am a registered professional mechanical engineer.

They should have wiped out the original spring hanger brackets and use a piece of rectangular steel tubing to provide for the needed drop on the suspension.

Ken

x2 100%.
avvidclif1
Explorer
Mar 10, 2015
gkainz wrote:
nguyenbio wrote:
snip... Lippert approves the mod, but does not warranty it of course. ...snip

If they won't warrant the mod then I don't give any validity to their approval. That pic looks flimsy as a ragdoll to me.

Subframe and standard length hangers is what I've seen ... but what do I know? I'm only a software engineer and that stuff there is hardware. :)
Greg

Would you warranty a design of yours if you don't have a clue about the ability of the welder that put it together???
gkainz
Explorer
Mar 09, 2015
nguyenbio wrote:
snip... Lippert approves the mod, but does not warranty it of course. ...snip

If they won't warrant the mod then I don't give any validity to their approval. That pic looks flimsy as a ragdoll to me.

Subframe and standard length hangers is what I've seen ... but what do I know? I'm only a software engineer and that stuff there is hardware. :)
Greg
TXiceman
Explorer II
Mar 09, 2015
After looking at the photo, that is scary as Hell. And I am a registered professional mechanical engineer.

They should have wiped out the original spring hanger brackets and use a piece of rectangular steel tubing to provide for the needed drop on the suspension.

Ken
NMDriver
Explorer
Mar 09, 2015
What is the weight on each of the axles. If they are close to being equal then being 2 inches nose high makes no difference and lowering the nose MAY be moving weight to the front axle that is balanced now between the two.

I am slightly nose high but my axle weights are within 50 lbs of equal and the extra 50 lbs is on the front axle not the rear. Moving more weight to the front axle, by lowering my nose, would be counter productive.
Michelle_S
Explorer III
Mar 09, 2015
OK, if it were me I'd kill two birds with one fix. I'd call Mor/ryde and make an appointment to have their IS installed. They weld on a sub-frame to mount their suspension to and can raise the unit at the same time. So you would get a much better ride for your GD and raise it up at the same time. A win - win, except for the cost, but it would be done right.
Specularius
Explorer
Mar 09, 2015
There is another Grand Design owner that had this same problem with a Dodge Truck and his Reflection. He had the center connection dropped like that to fix his problem. I'm not sure what his name was, but he might see this and respond.
kaydeejay
Explorer
Mar 09, 2015
rhagfo wrote:
Well It is Factory approved, BUT that looks a bit flimsy, the pitcher is also about 4" of lift.

.................
Unless the hangars at the other ends of the springs are also extended a 4" lift in the middle would result in a 2" lift at the axles.
Like you, I think that is too flimsy and don't like it, Lippert approved or not!!
rhagfo
Explorer III
Mar 09, 2015
ford truck guy wrote:
kaydeejay wrote:
nguyenbio wrote:
........As far as asking here, Lippert approves the mod, ..............
That surprises me! Would seem to me that a tight turn would put enormous stress on those two new brackets due to the hangers now being twice as far from the frame rails.
I do not see any diagonal cross-braces (spring hangar on one side to the frame on the other) that would absorb the extra forces.
What did you do at the other ends of the springs?

I agree... If it were me , I would replace that 2" hanger and NOT add a new 2" hanger.. instead I would just add a beefy 2" x 4" rectangle tube with 1/4" wall.. That is how mor/ryde did mine when I added the IS..

Well It is Factory approved, BUT that looks a bit flimsy, the pitcher is also about 4" of lift.

I will be installing a Correct Track for 2" of lift, and will likely build a brace for all three sets of hangers.

If I was building a sub Frame, I would not use 1/4 tube, when 1/8" would be more than strong enough.
ScottG
Nomad
Mar 09, 2015
I would be tempted to cut some triangular pieces and weld them into the corners of the original shackle mounts. This would keep those long, tall mounts from trying to move side to side.

Sorry but I don not consider Lippert an expert on frame design or building. They have proven themselves otherwise too many times - including my own TT frame.

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