New guy wheel bearing questions

They are not all the same. All the bearings and seals I've worked on had a manufacturer name and part number on them.

You need to remove one wheel and take one hub off. There is a seal on the back of the hub, remove it. You will be replacing it so don't worry if you damage it. Remove the bearings and clean them up. Gasoline and a stiff brush work as well as anything. The rollers should be smooth and no rust. Feel of the race inside the hub. It too should be smooth. If either one is not smooth, replace both. There is a number on the bearing so just take it, and the old seal, to a auto parts store and they can match it up with new ones. Before replacing the bearings repack with high temperature bearing grease. Install the new seal, being careful not to deform it, and replace the hub on the spindle. Tighten the nut on the end of the spindle until the wheel is hard to turn. Back off 1/4 turn until you can install the cotter pin. Do this 3 more times and you are done.

If it were me, and I knew it hadn't been serviced for that period of time, I would buy four new backer plates with new lining and magnets as they are
Probably well worn and it's much easier to fix it at Home than on the road for the couple hundred bucks it will take assuming it's a dual axle.

This may help and they have the parts as well:
Repack

Thanks for all the good info. I have done many wheel bearings on cars so I have no problem with that part I just did not know as far as sizes. Automotive you just go to any parts store tell them what vehicle and they give you the correct size (most of the time). Trailers do not seem to work that way.

powderman426 wrote:
If it were me, and I knew it hadn't been serviced for that period of time, I would buy four new backer plates with new lining and magnets as they are
Probably well worn and it's much easier to fix it at Home than on the road for the couple hundred bucks it will take assuming it's a dual axle.

thanks for this tip I didn't know you could buy assemblies like this.

zcookiemonstar wrote:

powderman426 wrote:
If it were me, and I knew it hadn't been serviced for that period of time, I would buy four new backer plates with new lining and magnets as they are
Probably well worn and it's much easier to fix it at Home than on the road for the couple hundred bucks it will take assuming it's a dual axle.

thanks for this tip I didn't know you could buy assemblies like this.

Check out E Trailer. The back plate complete with new lining and magnets run about $59. If you buy the parts individually they are way more expensive.

dbbls wrote:
... Gasoline and a stiff brush work as well as anything.

gas = fire hazard.

I use brake cleaner from Wal-mart. it's cheap.

zcookiemonstar wrote:
Thanks for all the good info. I have done many wheel bearings on cars so I have no problem with that part I just did not know as far as sizes. Automotive you just go to any parts store tell them what vehicle and they give you the correct size (most of the time). Trailers do not seem to work that way.

No, they don't.

The axle rating determines what size bearings and seals the require, but that's not always the same either - my 2003 Desert Fox had 5200lb axles, but there are two seal sizes for that axle rating, so I bought both and returned what I didn't need.

When buying break backing plate assemblies, the diameter and width of the brake shoes are what's needed to order new ones.

For wheel bearing or seals take the old ones to a good auto parts store and they can match them my Napa had them in stock