Newbie, some tech questions

Typically fifth wheels frames are not stout enough to allow for a gooseneck adapter. I know guys do it, but I have also read lota of posts with frame failures, so take it for what its worth. As for layouts? Mid bunk rooms just done seem logical to me, but its your money, so buy what you like. Height? Typically 12'6" is pretty common.

ToddD wrote:
Looking at residential reefers,

If you will be camping off grid you will need to beef up your battery/charging system significantly.

Consider dual pane windows for better insulation and less noise.

What kind of hide-a-ball do you have? We have the B&W system with 5th wheel companion hitch and we love it. Easy to drop in when you need it, then remove it to a flat surface. Easy to hook to the camper when wanted. I highly recommend it!

gar_fanatic wrote:
What kind of hide-a-ball do you have? We have the B&W system with 5th wheel companion hitch and we love it. Easy to drop in when you need it, then remove it to a flat surface. Easy to hook to the camper when wanted. I highly recommend it!

X2 here on B&W Companion. Have towed a 31' Alpenlite (about 10K #'s and Wildcat Maxx with it and I can't believe there is a better hitch. Recently moved from 5th wheel to Class C, but kept the B7W, just in case I need it for something. Too good to get rid of!

"Have lots of experience towing 40' enclosed gooseneck race trailers."

I understand that you are experienced at towing a long RV and probably backing up too but with this size rig you will severly limit the number of campgrounds where you can stay. If that meets with your requirements...ok.

ToddD wrote:
Looking to upgrade from a hybrid tow behind. I have an 04 GMC diesel dually TV. Have lots of experience towing 40' enclosed gooseneck race trailer.

Been looking at Forest River products, but have noticed that among different brands there seems to be two standard heights: 12'4" and 13'2". Besides the obvious interior headroom differences, is there any other consideration between these two specs, like chassis strength?

Reese makes a Lippert approved gooseneck conversion. Assuming the chassis I look at is Lippert, any reasons not to convert (besides cost)? I use the bed of my pickup often, and would prefer to use my hide-a-ball.

We have a 9yo kid, so we've been looking at mid-bunk layouts so she can have her own room, while also maintaining spacious living space. Sierra 372LOK and Coachmen Chaparral 392MBL. Any other brands and models to check out (seen the Jayco models)?

On models with bumper mounted grills, the grills are easily removable for storage, right? All the photos I see have them on the bumper with their covers on, which seems like a recipe for theft and damage.

Looking at residential reefers, self leveling systems, king bed upgrades, and 15k AC plus bedroom AC. Any other must have options?

Thanks in advance for the help,

Todd

Without reading ahead...

1. Most mfrs will void any frame warranty if you use a GN adapter. My recommendation, even though I have no direct experience with it, would be an Andersen adapter. It fastens to the ball in your bed, but raises the hitch point almost to the same level as a straight FW hitch point.

2. I'd have to say that close to 90% of all FW frames are made by Lippert, based on what I've read here. Strength isn't always as big an issue as build quality, which Lippert has had in the past, and still seems to have. Not saying that they don't get marginal specs from the mfrs, but the majority of reports that have been reported here seem to have weld failures as a common starting point. (This is why most mfrs won't warrant using a GN adapter.)

3. The grill that came with my Komfort will cook meat...barely. At altitude, you get grey meat that's cooked, but doesn't look real appetizing. My wife simply won't eat meat cooked on it, so we either take a small charcoal grill or "borrow" one of her sibs' grills.

4. If you have =any= plans on boondocking at all, you'll need at least 2 BIG 6v batteries and a generator (or lots of solar) to keep that residential fridge running for more than about 24 hours. If you have zero plans on boondocking, then a residential fridge should work. Caveat is that residential fridges are made to be stationary and there are occasional reports of people having issues with them, especially if they move frequently.

5. Self-leveling is definitely a luxury option and I've not had many problems manually leveling my Komfort, but it's definitely on my "must have" list for my next FW. :-) That being said, it's another system that can fail.

6. Depending on where you live and/or camp, having dual A/C is almost a must. Even my low-profile, 25' Komfort barely gets cool with a 13.5k A/C, but most of my camping is done in the mountains of AZ, where it can get downright cool at night, even in July/August. Again, another "must-have" on my next FW.

Lyle

Lwiddis wrote:
"Have lots of experience towing 40' enclosed gooseneck race trailers."

I understand that you are experienced at towing a long RV and probably backing up too but with this size rig you will severly limit the number of campgrounds where you can stay. If that meets with your requirements...ok.

Thanks for the note, I'm aware it pushes the limit of space availability. We're mostly seasonal near the Upper Chesapeake, and then do short trips in the spring and fall.

laknox wrote:

Without reading ahead...

1. Most mfrs will void any frame warranty if you use a GN adapter. My recommendation, even though I have no direct experience with it, would be an Andersen adapter. It fastens to the ball in your bed, but raises the hitch point almost to the same level as a straight FW hitch point.

Someone else on another forum pointed me to the Andersens. I'm not quite sure I understand the concept. If the trailer is a 5th wheel coupler, then I'd still need to convert it to a gooseneck coupler to use this adapter. And if I do that, why not just covert to something like a Reese which should reach to my bed height ball?

laknox wrote:
3. The grill that came with my Komfort will cook meat...barely. At altitude, you get grey meat that's cooked, but doesn't look real appetizing. My wife simply won't eat meat cooked on it, so we either take a small charcoal grill or "borrow" one of her sibs' grills.

Yeah, pretty much the same with the one that came on my Hybrid. I was mostly curious if they were removable. The one on my hybrid is portable and clips onto a swinging bumper mount.

laknox wrote:
4. If you have =any= plans on boondocking at all, you'll need at least 2 BIG 6v batteries and a generator (or lots of solar) to keep that residential fridge running for more than about 24 hours. If you have zero plans on boondocking, then a residential fridge should work. Caveat is that residential fridges are made to be stationary and there are occasional reports of people having issues with them, especially if they move frequently.

No real plans to boondock, but I do have a couple Honda EU2000 generators should that day happen. We're mostly seasonal on the Upper Chesapeake, hence the desire for a more standard size fridge.

laknox wrote:
6. Depending on where you live and/or camp, having dual A/C is almost a must. Even my low-profile, 25' Komfort barely gets cool with a 13.5k A/C, but most of my camping is done in the mountains of AZ, where it can get downright cool at night, even in July/August. Again, another "must-have" on my next FW.

Planning on that, thanks.

ToddD wrote:

laknox wrote:

Without reading ahead...

1. Most mfrs will void any frame warranty if you use a GN adapter. My recommendation, even though I have no direct experience with it, would be an Andersen adapter. It fastens to the ball in your bed, but raises the hitch point almost to the same level as a straight FW hitch point.

Someone else on another forum pointed me to the Andersens. I'm not quite sure I understand the concept. If the trailer is a 5th wheel coupler, then I'd still need to convert it to a gooseneck coupler to use this adapter. And if I do that, why not just covert to something like a Reese which should reach to my bed height ball?

The Andersen comes with an adapter block that mounts on the kingpin on the trailer, that has a ball socket in it. I have the Andersen Ultimate and really like it. It's biggest benefit is light weight - 34# so very easy to lift out of the bed and turn the gooseneck ball over for a flat, empty truck bed.

Those that post about their B&W Turnover Companion seem to love them as well. I have no experience with it.

Greg

The Reese Goosebox is approved by Lippert. These cats on here think you just want to use the goosneck adapter that adapts to the 5th wheel pin.

I prefer the Andersen Ultimate. It puts the ball up where you can see it in the rear view mirror. Where as the gooseball being down on the bed floor. Also the Andersen is adjustable height the Reese Goose box is not.